Russell speed bleeders
#21
Just ordered the Russell Speed Bleeders from Summitt, is it necessary to bleed the MC when bleeding the brakes? If yes, do I do it before the 4 corners or after? Also, which one on the MC do you bleed first? One last question, has anyone used the Russell brake bleeder bag? Or should I just use a catch can? Thanks.
#22
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No its not necessary to bleed the master. When bleeding the brakes, always start with the wheel farest from the MC. You might want to suck out all the old fluid out of the MC if you are changing, but if you are only bleeding and putting the same type of fluid in, its not necessary. I have the speed bleeders on mine and just craked one at a time and used a hose going to a catch can, no problems.
#23
Marty,
For a catch can, I took a water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap for a snug fit on the bleed hose, and shoved it thru. Works good, and cheap.
I've got a bag for track use, but haven't used it yet.
The above post covers the rest.
For a catch can, I took a water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap for a snug fit on the bleed hose, and shoved it thru. Works good, and cheap.
I've got a bag for track use, but haven't used it yet.
The above post covers the rest.
#24
I am taking mine out. I am not an engineer but it is my opinion that these are not up to track use. I have found two that were tight but leaking and I did not over tighten them. I saw the same issue with these two weeks ago on another Boss.
Take it for what's it worth, I don't want to get into a big debate over this because I am not a technical expert, all I know is they fail under track use (at least sometimes). I feel they are dangerous and I would rather not have to say "I told you so".
Take it for what's it worth, I don't want to get into a big debate over this because I am not a technical expert, all I know is they fail under track use (at least sometimes). I feel they are dangerous and I would rather not have to say "I told you so".
#25
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Location: Colorado
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I have since installed a set of Speedbleeders. Just ran them during our first NASA event of the season yesterday.
One thing to note when installing these is to grind down the sharp point to more closely match the stock bleed screw tips, or it's possible they could bottom out, at least on some calipers, before being tight enough. Also, when tightening the bleeders, they need to be TIGHT. Baer told me on their calipers, the speed bleeders need to be socked down really, really tight. I've found that to be the same with the StopTech ST40 calipers.
Tighten them down real good, and they don't leak. My first go-around, I thought I had them socked down tight, pumped the brakes, & spewed fluid. Went back and tightened them more, concerned that I might be going too far, and they stopped letting fluid out. Was able to loosen, retighten, and everything stayed nice & dry for an entire day of HPDE. And that was after burning up a new set of "race" pads, which will remain unnamed for now (manufacturer is getting a call first thing Monday to discuss).
One thing to note when installing these is to grind down the sharp point to more closely match the stock bleed screw tips, or it's possible they could bottom out, at least on some calipers, before being tight enough. Also, when tightening the bleeders, they need to be TIGHT. Baer told me on their calipers, the speed bleeders need to be socked down really, really tight. I've found that to be the same with the StopTech ST40 calipers.
Tighten them down real good, and they don't leak. My first go-around, I thought I had them socked down tight, pumped the brakes, & spewed fluid. Went back and tightened them more, concerned that I might be going too far, and they stopped letting fluid out. Was able to loosen, retighten, and everything stayed nice & dry for an entire day of HPDE. And that was after burning up a new set of "race" pads, which will remain unnamed for now (manufacturer is getting a call first thing Monday to discuss).
#26
Ed,
Thanks for the tip on knocking off the tip a bit. Since my Boss is on jack stands, now is a great time to take them out, trim the tip a bit, reinstall, and bleed.
I've got the stainless version of Speed Bleeder brand.
After my spring fluid swap, I used an inch-pound torque wrench that has a 45 in-lb upper limit. I set them to that, then put a wrench on, and added a bit more. One day at MAM, and no leaking at all.
Thanks for the tip on knocking off the tip a bit. Since my Boss is on jack stands, now is a great time to take them out, trim the tip a bit, reinstall, and bleed.
I've got the stainless version of Speed Bleeder brand.
After my spring fluid swap, I used an inch-pound torque wrench that has a 45 in-lb upper limit. I set them to that, then put a wrench on, and added a bit more. One day at MAM, and no leaking at all.
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