Sorry, I should have clarified; the temp's I mentioned were "hot".

For street use, I'd set them at 35 cold and forget 'em.........

 

I've never had that problem. Like you, once I've re-torqued after one heat / cool cycle, they seldom loosen after that. Different types of metal expand and contract at different amounts when heated and cooled. This is what causes the lug nut to get lose. I think the extreme temperature change is you culprit. It like you torque the wheels hot. I would guess that the steal studs expand / contract more then the aluminum rims thus causing the over tightening you experienced.

 

These stock tires are showing about a 3.5 to 4 psi difference in the cold/hot pressure so the difference at the track would only be 2 psi difference if we run 35 cold for the street. It is a little more then they filled them from the factory but no matter. I will set them at 37 in the morning and adjust after each run to get the 41 hot.

Another question, how are you guys changing the brake fluid? The old way of someone stepping on the pedal or having a shop do it with a machine? I remember my 87 Turbo Coupe with ABS, you could turn on the key have someone step on the pedal and the pump would activate (rear only), no need to to have them push it to the floor and open and close the valve, does the Mustang work like this also?

 

+1 Run 35psi cold for the street.
Just remember that after a day of airing down your tires at the track, your going to need to add air back before driving on the street again.

 

That is why God made trailers and if I can figure out how to clear the splitter I hope to go that way

 

This is what I used on my race car and I will get one for the Boss. It works great and you don't need anyone else there.

http://store.motiveproducts.com/blac...-0118-p82.aspx

 

Your tires are going to generate more heat on the track than on the street so there's no need to start above 35psi. Think of the 41psi hot as a high limit.

This is my first Mustang so I'll leave the second question for someone else.

 

interested in the hooked on driving. not heard of it, and have not driven moroso. pm me info if you could

thought chin was running next weekend at sebring? sebring is big fun. do it!

to all.

hot tire pressures at 39 to 40. adjust as you come off the track. check every time.

have been changing oil in motor before every second event, unless the car sits for a while.

tranny and diff. every third event, unless it is a chin event. lots of track time with chin.

and h20 is you friend, you cant have enough while at the track.

beers

 

Hookedondriving.com

 

thx,

had it opened in a tab after i posted.. has anyone tracked with them before?

beers

 

I have at lightning speedway in NJ

 

pm sent, back to the thread..

beers

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss

Here is a pic, it seems to me one way or other you need to drill a fill plug even if you want to take the cover off each time to clean. It looks like the lower hole will be low enough to allow most to drain out.

YellowBoss- Good picture and thanks for the post! Does appear there is a location already cast into the differential cover for just such a drain plug location. I agree, probably a good idea to drill and tap during cover removal and oil change.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Also I run Castrol SRF (DOT 5) in my car on the street as well as on track and do fine. I love it; I dont have to bleed it nearly as much as the ATE Super Blue DOT 4. I boiled the ATE Super Blue with my stock pads and rotors at Sebring, so switched to the SRF when I upgraded the pads and rotors, and after 2 days at Sebring it was flawless.

Scott- The Castrol SRF DOT4 brake fluid you changed to is very, very good. However it is also very, very EXPENSIVE (approx $80 for 34 fluid ounces). Compare and contrast this with the OE Motorcraft PM-1C DOT3 fluid at about $4 for 12 fluid ounces. At a cost of $2.35 per ounce you get 590F dry fluid protection with the SRF and at $0.33 per ounce you get 550F dry fluid protection with the Motorcraft fluid. If you can afford the Castrol SRF fluid and associated change-out frequency costs, by all means go for it. As they say, “Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?”

But for weekend warriors who occasionally will track their Boss, there are other suitable and less costly alternatives. Hopefully the below link might help others.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2817512

Racing Brake Fluid
Brake Fluid is rated by dry boiling point (for fluid fresh out of the bottle) and wet boiling point (for fluid saturated with moisture). If you bleed brakes frequently, the dry boiling point is most important. If you do not change your brake fluid often, the wet boiling point becomes more important. All of our fluids except AP600 will mix with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids. None of the fluids we carry are compatible with DOT 5 (silicone) fluids.
(Sorry, I could not get the brake fluid table to insert here as I wanted)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean#4AI

This is what I used on my race car and I will get one for the Boss. It works great and you don't need anyone else there.

Dean- The pressure bleed system in your link is a good way to go, however, there are knowledgeable brake people who do not advise using this system. Why? As we know brake fluid has a propensity to absorb moisture which lowers its boiling temperature and compromises its effectiveness in a track/race environment. That’s why flushing and changing the fluid periodically is important. We want our fluid boiling property as close to the dry temperature (no water absorbed) as possible. Since moisture is inherently in air (especially in high humidity locations) pressurizing a volume of air in a pressure feeder exposed to the free surface of the brake fluid can “force” the moisture from the pressurizing air into the new brake fluid as it is being forced into the car brake lines. Thus the fluid can be somewhat compromised in boiling property from the initial fill. If the pressure system uses a bladder membrane between the brake fluid and the pressurizing air then the moisture transfer is diminished or eliminated. If you want to use a pressure bleed system, I would look for one with this separation membrane, otherwise I like to use the vacuum bleed system where a vacuum is applied at each caliper and the new fluid “drawn” into the lines and caliper volume.

 

yeah I just finished up two days at Sebring with Chin, it was a blast! Never been to PBIR yet though. Wish I could; I'm not going to be able to do any more events until after June (my wedding is May 27th and then gone for two weeks for our honeymoon).

There is an event at Sebring that the SCCA is running July 16th and 17th at Sebring, called "PDX" (non-competition DE event) that they run in conjunction with their drivers school on the Sebring short course, so it's a little easier on your car, and it's usually only about $90, so you cant beat the price. If interested I can keep you updated when they open registration; i'll be going to that. I did the Daytona PDX with them a few weeks ago and it was a blast.

 

Scott - sent a PM but general for other locals:


Like I said it seemed to be a good group, at least for me as a beginner there is no pressure out there and they keep a good eye out. It was nice to spend a day just watching how they work before heading out on the track.

http://racepbir.com/road.html this is the link to Palm Beach, not a lot of turns, two decent straight-a-ways, I think it is perfect for a first timer. Hooked on driving also does Homestead and that sounds like a blast, not sure yet if they have any Daytona events.

One good thing is no member fees, every penny counts (to me anyway).

Back on brake fluid, any issues with the Boss on doing an old fashion bleed???

 

Scott, I think the old fashion way of pumping thru the master cylinder is fine as well. Just takes two people and a bit more time consuming. But otherwise perfectively effective in flush/fill.

 

Interesting. I've never had a problem but I always bled my brakes before every race. There are a lot of people more knowledgable about this stuff than me so their theory could be spot on. Although I do believe for the average open tracker, this method would work fine.

At one time I tried the vacuum system and I couldn't get it to work very well. Is there a brand that you recommend?

Thanks for the info!

 

Here is the Scoop on Brake Fluid.

DOT 3-4 brake fluid is normal run of mill stuff. Dot 4 is a higher dry and wet boiling point than dot 3. Both will work with regular maintenance. Dark fluid has a lot of water in it and will cause rock hard pedal and no braking power at an autocross or track day.

Dot 5 is Silicone based brake fluid. It does not absorb water. As a result it pushes the water into the ABS modules where corrosion can occur and hurt/disable the ABS solenoids. NOTE it is not compatible with dot 3 or 4. I would not recommend it in ABS cars, unless you change back and forth fully purging the lines. A track only car without ABS would be fine with Silicone DOT 5 (Wet boiling point 500F).

Dot 5.1 is a Synthetic non-Silicone based brake fluid which has a high "Wet Boiling Point" (approx. 375F) more than dot 3-4 it is compatible with dot 3 or 4. This can be run at the track and on the street. It is unfortunate that it is called DOT 5.1 as it is very confusing.

Key is for the track, look for the highest "Wet" Boiling Point. If it does not say "wet" boiling point it is not, and you will never see that dry boiling point in real life. The "dry' boiling point is a laboratory measurement. As soon as you open the bottle the brake fluid becomes "wet".

TIP:
Usually Synthetic "Racing" Brake Fluid is very expensive. Here is the secret, find a Napa store and have them get you Dot 5.1 brake fluid for about half the price of the "Racing" fluids on the market that have similar wet boiling points. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006443459&An=0 (19.99 plus shipping)

I now run Dot 5.1 in all my street cars with ABS, and for autocrossing.
Since the change, I have had no issue with a hard brake pedal while running my "autocross only" 93 Formula (soon to be Boss).

 

I have always gone by the rule of not shelving an opened bottle too long and that is for street cars, trucks etc. They say if you leave the cap off over night throw it out.

Dave I am not sure what you saying here, I don't see why Dot 4 would be bad for the track, certainly it would be better then Dot 3???

 

Dean, the trick I have found in using the vacuum flush system is before starting the flush, removing each caliper bleeder screw, cleaning the thread and reinstalling using teflon tape on the bleed screw threads. The sloppy fit of the bleeder screw into the caliper threads allows air to pass thru the threads and "short-circuits" the vacuum you are trying to draw on the caliper cavity. The T-tape closes up the thread gap and allows a good vacuum to be pulled on the caliper. Just my experience.

Davegush presents some good information as well as to the fluid classifications. No matter which DOT level you use, always purchase as new a sealed bottle of fluid you can get and once the fluid is opened use it all or discard. Most brake fluid is packaged in plastic bottles which over time can and do allow moisture to permiate the plastic polymar. Order fresh and use as quickly as possible instead of keeping bottles sitting (sealed) on your workbench for 6+ months. Note, some of the fluid offerings are packaged in metal containers which enhances shelf life.

Be sure to heed the miscibility properties as listed in Davegush's post. This is important. IMO I do not see any problem in using DOT4 on the track. DOT4 fluid is required to have a higher wet temperature capability (311F wet) relative to DOT3 fluid (284F wet). DOT5.1 is also a good recommendation and typically has the highest wet temperature capability of all the candidates listed (about 375F wet) but I am told it is difficult to locate in North America. Perhaps someone can post up DOT5.1 candidates and prices for this thread.