Had a slow leak that couldn't be repaired on rear tire, bought two near rear tires (hankook ventus)..... I hate them, too soft I can feel squirm in Sidewalls and stability control now engages ( I assume stability control, vibration from brakes) when I hit on-ramps at 80% or more

Bought two different rear tires, much stiffer rear Sidewalls but stability control is too aggressive still..


Never had this problem before got rear tires replaced
Is it mismatched tires causing this (front are still originals )

Bad wheel bearing ( shop that mounted new tires noticed grease around drivers side front spindle and said drivers side tire out of round which can be sign of wheel beating going??

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Ps 22,000 miles on my 2012 boss

 

The stability control is likely a problem of different tires causing different rotational sensing front to back, so it goes off.

Now, I can't say as I'm all up on what these newer cars are, but I had a Mark VIII will all fairly new tires get used to put all her wheels/tires on another Mark VIII that a customer came in with that same complaint. He had Michelins in the front and Goodyears in the back. Mine were all BFG Touring TAs. His problems went away with my tires. And the Goodyears were definitely a wholly different circumference than the Michelins even though they were the same 'size'. (Sorta like why you have to try on shoes or pants or whatever... L isn't L everywhere.)

If the bearing is out, it could cause a dragging, but... you'd notice that noise too. The easy check is to hard weave from lane to lane, left... then right... then left... then right... and if it gets loud on the bearing that you're leaning on, say swerve left, loud noise, swerve right, noise goes away... bearing on right side is bad.

But that's just my 2 cents on that. Could be something else, but I would be seeing if you couldn't borrow a good set of all the same tires and see what happens.

 

I ditched the factory tires and went Bridgestone Potenza based in some reviews. I miss the original tire. Sidewall flex has ruined the ride IMHO.

 

Never a good idea to have mismatched tires and , yes , that can be part of the problem. Have the Hankook S3s all the way around and they are sensitive to cool temps on the roadway , and will engage the traction control when getting on it if temps are down ( or pavement is cool ). But, they work well when it is warm out and alot of folks use them to autocross in the street tire classes. Tire has some of the disadvantages that many DOT comp tires also have -- just don't work well when cool out.

Not a bad tire overall, depending on your usage, but like alot of tires that have a lower wear rating, they do have a few trade offs.

Of course I am running a set of 18s also.

 

Traction control off should solve the problem. Just a button push away.

Seriously though...stability control is still on an should keep you out of serious trouble.

 

New tires need miles to break in. You have to wear/burn off the coating that is used to break them out of the mold. On some tires, this can take up to 200 miles.

 

What???

 

New tires always need a break in period. they have the chems from the mold release on em unless they come with that burn off already done.

i never tell people to do our mtn runs when I know they put on tires with less than 500 miles.

 

Too much of a blanket statement to say one needs 200 miles on the tires, or 500 miles on the tires ,without specifying what type -- all season, low treadwear rating, DOT competition, slicks.

There is a certain amount oils/chemicals that give a slick feeling at first, but dependent on driving style and type of tire the amount of scrubbing in can vary immensely.

But a certain amount is advisable and is part of the reason Tire Rack and others work on selling a heatcycled comp. tire.