Lost 46lbs < 4 hours!!
11/26/11, 10:28 PM
#22
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I am so thrilled to hear the one piece aluminum drivshaft works out so well. Maybe Ford will offer an aluminum shaft as an option. Heck, most people would pay more than enough for Ford to make a good profit on the driveshaft so they could nock 19 pounds of rotating weight off their Boss 302. Afterall, the Boss is a high performance car.
11/26/11, 10:33 PM
#23
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Well, Monica hogged the LS so I never got to try it...
Just kidding 
The car was amazing. No vibrations, no issues, only one problem I could possibly complain about... The nut behind the wheel was not up to spec.
This Boss is incredible as many of already know. We got comments all day long about how fast "that Mustang" was! The exhaust sounded incredible - inside and out. Not too loud but definitely had presence.
I am trying to get video loaded but here are a few pics for now.
Just kidding The car was amazing. No vibrations, no issues, only one problem I could possibly complain about... The nut behind the wheel was not up to spec.
This Boss is incredible as many of already know. We got comments all day long about how fast "that Mustang" was! The exhaust sounded incredible - inside and out. Not too loud but definitely had presence. I am trying to get video loaded but here are a few pics for now.
Last edited by Apollo; 11/26/11 at 10:35 PM.
11/26/11, 10:56 PM
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11/26/11, 11:35 PM
#26
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Tiger CF.
We decided on no hood pins as the stock mounting hardware seems well secured so we thought we would try it without, at least for now.
Sorry forgot about the grill... Kendall- where did you get these?
We decided on no hood pins as the stock mounting hardware seems well secured so we thought we would try it without, at least for now.
Sorry forgot about the grill... Kendall- where did you get these?
Last edited by Apollo; 11/26/11 at 11:37 PM.
11/26/11, 11:46 PM
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Well, Scott had sent me an email the other night to ask if we had any more testing of the aluminum driveshaft - other than my brief stint to 100 MPH. On Friday afternoon we installed another aluminum driveshaft into Apollo's 2012 Boss 302 LS. (Thanks to Apollo for coming out of his way to let install the driveshaft on Friday.) We really wanted to get this done because today (Saturday), Apollo spent the day at Willow Springs Raceway here in Southern California. This track has the nickname of "the fastest track in the West" because of the high speeds possible.
We are very happy to report that the diveshaft performed flawlessly in the Boss 302. No vibrations, no anomolies - just great performance at the track!! (FYI - Apollo also had us install the Kook's H-pipe back on Friday as well so he was also enjoying a 46lb weight savings from these two mods.)
Thanks Apollo!!
We are very happy to report that the diveshaft performed flawlessly in the Boss 302. No vibrations, no anomolies - just great performance at the track!! (FYI - Apollo also had us install the Kook's H-pipe back on Friday as well so he was also enjoying a 46lb weight savings from these two mods.)
Thanks Apollo!!
11/27/11, 06:42 AM
#28
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Great pics! I am going with a tiger hood as well and have not decided on a paint for it yet....
I am surprised by the amount of quality track products that are already out so soon for theses cars. Next season should be interesting.....
I am surprised by the amount of quality track products that are already out so soon for theses cars. Next season should be interesting.....
11/27/11, 09:22 AM
#29
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Terry, thanks again for being the test bed for the driveshaft as well as the Kook's exhaust.
FYI: It should only be a couple of more weeks before we have the oil coolers available and as my LS is wearing the pre-production unit, we will likely use Terry's car as the guinea pig to install and write the installation instructions. It's great to have fellow addicts so close!!!
Regarding the hood. Unlike the hoods that Tiger produces for Ford's race cars, the "commercial versions" have the necessary reinforement and threaded inserts to fit the OEM hood latch. The race versions save ~1lb by omitting this as well as all of the hardware in the grill area to complete the latching. The good news is that if you purchase one of these hoods (either in CF or Fiberglass) you do not NEED to add the racing latches - unless that's your thing.
The grills that we are using are the Cobra Jet models available from Ford Racing. They come in white (as shown on Terry's car) but can obviously be painted. The grills come complete with the surrounds and the grill. These grills are VERY open compared to the OEM Boss grills.
The Kook's cat-back exhaust is REALLY good. As a owner, you will notice a deeper, more V8 sound especially different at idele and under hard acceleration. The volume at both idle and full throttle seems slightly higher. However, no drone and no added interior noise levels during "normal" driving. Terry's car is currently a daily driver and he will occasionally use a hands-free phone, etc. so he was a good test for us. Of course the BIG advantage is the weight savings - 27lbs less than OEM. One last "cool" aesthetic cue of the Kook's is the way that they have angled the exhaust tip over. As OEM, the exhaust tips have an angles cut-off with the peak being straight up. On the Kook's, the peak of the angled cut is over at the 2 o'clock on the driver's side and 10 o'clock on the passenger side. Kind of a very subtle Nissan GTR type of look. (So subtle maybe only the owner would know!)
FYI: It should only be a couple of more weeks before we have the oil coolers available and as my LS is wearing the pre-production unit, we will likely use Terry's car as the guinea pig to install and write the installation instructions. It's great to have fellow addicts so close!!!
Regarding the hood. Unlike the hoods that Tiger produces for Ford's race cars, the "commercial versions" have the necessary reinforement and threaded inserts to fit the OEM hood latch. The race versions save ~1lb by omitting this as well as all of the hardware in the grill area to complete the latching. The good news is that if you purchase one of these hoods (either in CF or Fiberglass) you do not NEED to add the racing latches - unless that's your thing.
The grills that we are using are the Cobra Jet models available from Ford Racing. They come in white (as shown on Terry's car) but can obviously be painted. The grills come complete with the surrounds and the grill. These grills are VERY open compared to the OEM Boss grills.
The Kook's cat-back exhaust is REALLY good. As a owner, you will notice a deeper, more V8 sound especially different at idele and under hard acceleration. The volume at both idle and full throttle seems slightly higher. However, no drone and no added interior noise levels during "normal" driving. Terry's car is currently a daily driver and he will occasionally use a hands-free phone, etc. so he was a good test for us. Of course the BIG advantage is the weight savings - 27lbs less than OEM. One last "cool" aesthetic cue of the Kook's is the way that they have angled the exhaust tip over. As OEM, the exhaust tips have an angles cut-off with the peak being straight up. On the Kook's, the peak of the angled cut is over at the 2 o'clock on the driver's side and 10 o'clock on the passenger side. Kind of a very subtle Nissan GTR type of look. (So subtle maybe only the owner would know!)
11/27/11, 09:32 AM
#30
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The grills that we are using are the Cobra Jet models available from Ford Racing. They come in white (as shown on Terry's car) but can obviously be painted. The grills come complete with the surrounds and the grill. These grills are VERY open compared to the OEM Boss grills.
http://www.race-mart.com/Ford_Racing...5767-CJ10.html
Last edited by 5 DOT 0; 11/27/11 at 11:01 AM.
11/27/11, 11:23 AM
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I am also very lucky my wife is loving this. She is driving in the first few pictures with an instructor and put in very respectable times. She wants this for "her" car now.
Oh, I agree with you on the fastest color.
Last edited by Apollo; 11/27/11 at 11:34 AM.
11/27/11, 12:12 PM
#32
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Can you confirm it fits with no modifications and is a one piece bolt on? Thanks.
11/27/11, 12:34 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by nota4re
90%+ fitment. The bottom-most tabs on each side might be a little short leaving maybe 1/4" forward-back motion on these corners. Otherwise, it snaps into place and picks up the holes at the top to secure it into place.
11/27/11, 12:51 PM
#34
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11/27/11, 01:07 PM
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for your reading pleasure:
******
Clunk is driven by total driveline lash, dominated by the gear sets and clutch tuning/capability. The 3.73 amplifies this a bit compared to the 3.31 and 3.55 axles. The 2-piece driveshaft is not the cause of the clunk noise. The Bullitt will have higher levels of clunk compared to the base GT. The base GT throttle response is a bit softer than the Bullitt's. The increased throttle response makes the clunk a bit easier to get. It is a trade-off - improved performance feel vs clunk.
******
The post mentions high speed and 160mph - The Mustang (as it leaves AAI) is speed limited well below that for a reason. Like I said before, I do not know specifics about the dynotech piece, what it does or does not do. I do know about the 2-piece in the factory car. It is a fairly robust piece. Vibration is not an issue unless the centerbearing shims are not installed properly, the shaft has a balance issue or the pinion angle is off. These would be quality issues (that I'm not aware of having in production), not design. The 2-pc has no roll in whether or not you have a random vibration. U-joint angles, run-out (flange or shaft), balance and system modal (resonance) response govern vibration.
****************************
****** 2 piece drive shaft and rust
The 2-piece driveshaft is required to meet internal engineering requirements for safe operation at max vehicle speed. Basically, it is designed to provide a driveline system resonance well above what the speed limiter will allow you to operate at. If you put your driveline into resonance, bad things may happen! I've seen what it does to a car and it isn't pretty.
The driveshaft CV joints are required components on this type of driveshaft when combined with a live axle. If the rear suspension were IRS, simple flex couplings would be used (look at the new Camaro, Challenger, etc...) and would make for a lighter driveshaft.
The driveshaft also has an internal torsional damper (ITD) which is soley there to attenuate axle whine. If package allowed, the ITD would be mounted on the exterior of the driveshaft as a much lighter ring design. Since the equivalent inertia is required out of the smaller diameter part when installed inside the driveshaft, the mass has to increase. So, you get a heavier ITD vs a lightweight ETD.
A single piece steel or aluminum 1-piece would have to be larger in diameter than the current package allows. Basically, you would have contact with the fuel tank at full rear suspension jounce. 1-piece carbon fiber was explored at one time...
Hope this helps.
Oh, and as far as the rust is concerned, we hate it too. All I can say is write lots of letters to Ford asking them to make your Mustang's steel powertrain components (driveshaft, axle, etc...) come painted from the factory because you don't like rusty car parts. Customer feedback is sometimes absolutely necessary to make a change that, to many of us, should seem so obvious and simple. Fill out those customer surveys that you get in the mail. They really matter.
I would not assume an aftermarket piece "solves" a problem. Yes, you can stuff a massive driveshaft into the tunnel but it will not meet standard vehicle engineering requirements. Our requirements take many factors into account, with the biggest one being your personal safety under a wide variety of operating conditions. Our parts are engineered to work in one big system. Aftermarket parts are generally not engineered. By this, I mean that they are designed to fit properly (usually) and improve one or two attributes specific to your application.
For example, if you want a lighter weight driveshaft that gives you less rotating inertia, you can buy this aluminum 1-pc driveshaft. But, that's all you get - lighter weight. Not proven durability, safety (how does the driveshaft react in a rear impact?, clearance to other parts like the fuel tank?), NVH, ride (driveshaft plunge force actually affects your ride quality), etc...
But that's the great part about it being your car. You get to decide what you want your Mustang to be. Just be cautious and think about how these parts may affect the rest of your driving experience, safety and wallet if it breaks or breaks something else in the car.
Clunk is driven by total driveline lash, dominated by the gear sets and clutch tuning/capability. The 3.73 amplifies this a bit compared to the 3.31 and 3.55 axles. The 2-piece driveshaft is not the cause of the clunk noise. The Bullitt will have higher levels of clunk compared to the base GT. The base GT throttle response is a bit softer than the Bullitt's. The increased throttle response makes the clunk a bit easier to get. It is a trade-off - improved performance feel vs clunk.
******
The post mentions high speed and 160mph - The Mustang (as it leaves AAI) is speed limited well below that for a reason. Like I said before, I do not know specifics about the dynotech piece, what it does or does not do. I do know about the 2-piece in the factory car. It is a fairly robust piece. Vibration is not an issue unless the centerbearing shims are not installed properly, the shaft has a balance issue or the pinion angle is off. These would be quality issues (that I'm not aware of having in production), not design. The 2-pc has no roll in whether or not you have a random vibration. U-joint angles, run-out (flange or shaft), balance and system modal (resonance) response govern vibration.
****************************
****** 2 piece drive shaft and rust
The 2-piece driveshaft is required to meet internal engineering requirements for safe operation at max vehicle speed. Basically, it is designed to provide a driveline system resonance well above what the speed limiter will allow you to operate at. If you put your driveline into resonance, bad things may happen! I've seen what it does to a car and it isn't pretty.
The driveshaft CV joints are required components on this type of driveshaft when combined with a live axle. If the rear suspension were IRS, simple flex couplings would be used (look at the new Camaro, Challenger, etc...) and would make for a lighter driveshaft.
The driveshaft also has an internal torsional damper (ITD) which is soley there to attenuate axle whine. If package allowed, the ITD would be mounted on the exterior of the driveshaft as a much lighter ring design. Since the equivalent inertia is required out of the smaller diameter part when installed inside the driveshaft, the mass has to increase. So, you get a heavier ITD vs a lightweight ETD.
A single piece steel or aluminum 1-piece would have to be larger in diameter than the current package allows. Basically, you would have contact with the fuel tank at full rear suspension jounce. 1-piece carbon fiber was explored at one time...
Hope this helps.
Oh, and as far as the rust is concerned, we hate it too. All I can say is write lots of letters to Ford asking them to make your Mustang's steel powertrain components (driveshaft, axle, etc...) come painted from the factory because you don't like rusty car parts. Customer feedback is sometimes absolutely necessary to make a change that, to many of us, should seem so obvious and simple. Fill out those customer surveys that you get in the mail. They really matter.
I would not assume an aftermarket piece "solves" a problem. Yes, you can stuff a massive driveshaft into the tunnel but it will not meet standard vehicle engineering requirements. Our requirements take many factors into account, with the biggest one being your personal safety under a wide variety of operating conditions. Our parts are engineered to work in one big system. Aftermarket parts are generally not engineered. By this, I mean that they are designed to fit properly (usually) and improve one or two attributes specific to your application.
For example, if you want a lighter weight driveshaft that gives you less rotating inertia, you can buy this aluminum 1-pc driveshaft. But, that's all you get - lighter weight. Not proven durability, safety (how does the driveshaft react in a rear impact?, clearance to other parts like the fuel tank?), NVH, ride (driveshaft plunge force actually affects your ride quality), etc...
But that's the great part about it being your car. You get to decide what you want your Mustang to be. Just be cautious and think about how these parts may affect the rest of your driving experience, safety and wallet if it breaks or breaks something else in the car.
Last edited by cdynaco; 11/27/11 at 01:08 PM.
11/27/11, 10:14 PM
#36
Regarding the hood. Unlike the hoods that Tiger produces for Ford's race cars, the "commercial versions" have the necessary reinforement and threaded inserts to fit the OEM hood latch. The race versions save ~1lb by omitting this as well as all of the hardware in the grill area to complete the latching. The good news is that if you purchase one of these hoods (either in CF or Fiberglass) you do not NEED to add the racing latches - unless that's your thing.
11/27/11, 10:26 PM
#37
Cobra Member
Very interesting to see from an engineering standpoint. Obviously, the Ford engineers figured out how to get a carbon fiber driveshaft to work in the 202 mph 2013 GT500.
I would think a small diameter aluminum driveshaft with a thicker wall could be made to work and provide enough clearance.
I would think a small diameter aluminum driveshaft with a thicker wall could be made to work and provide enough clearance.
11/30/11, 08:50 AM
#40
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Notra4re, I'm interested in a driveshaft myself, where can I get one
We have them on the website. Here's the direct link:
http://www.cooltechllc.com/Boss/Boss...iveshaft.shtml