YellowJacketBoss302

I have a noise coming from the drivers side rear (different noise than Konablue's in the other thread).

My noise is a squeak, squeak, squeak that is clearly related to the car speed. It is a metal on metal scraping sound. It sounds almost like a squealing brake pad that is hitting a high spot on the rotor. However, the car stops smoothly and I feel nothing unusual in the brake pedal.

The noise occurs most, but not all, of the time. I rarely hear it during a left hand turn; but, hear it almost all the time going straight or in a right hand turn. It occurs on smooth roads – not related to hitting bumps. I do not notice it at speed (above about 40 mph) or during hard braking. I do notice it under light (or no) braking.

Anyone else experience this? Any thoughts on what it could be?

Thanks.
-- Jim

2012YellowBoss

Not sure if it is the brakes but pull a wheel and see if the calipers are still floating, sometimes the pins stick but normally only on an older car with lots of dirt in there. Also check to see the rotor is not warped. That would be the first things I would check as far as the brakes go.

YellowJacketBoss302

Hi Scott,
Thanks for the reply. I had the wheel off yesterday and did not see or feel anything odd with the rotor. Seemed smooth and I could not feel any warp. I turned the wheel by hand and did not hear the noise. The resistance to turning the wheel was even all the way around. But, I don’t really know how to check for warping.

You asked if “calipers are still floating”. How would I check that?

Thanks.
-- Jim

ShaneM

jim my car made all sorts of weird sounds from the right front rotor when i burned the pads up at the track. the pad on the back was apparently in heavy use by advancetrack and was sticking. have you driven it hard or tracked it? that corner squeaked and had a slight grind on track and after i stopped between sessions it stuck pretty bad and made a heck of a racket after that.

you might be hearing the torsen too, that thing is loud and depending on where you hold your head it can sound like its coming from one side.

PS- 911 is a cool boss number! mine is half evil!

2012YellowBoss

Since the caliper has only one piston on the inside the caliper floats on two pins to get both pads to work. I don't have my car here so someone correct me if you can move the caliper without loosening the two inside bolts, I don't remember.

If not you will see two bolts that hold the caliper to the support bracket. Loosen them and then you should be able to slide the caliper side to side. There are four bolts total, the two for the support bracket are bigger, you want to remove the smaller ones, I think they have a 13 MM head.

The only way to check if it is warped on the car is to spin it while looking very close. It will be hard to tell since a small warp could cause the problem. Better to have it checked by a brake specialist. I am not convinced you really have a brake problem except you say it is speed related.

LagunaBeach

Make sure the dust shield is not touching any part of the rotor, they are thin metal and can get pushed into the rotor fairly easily.

YellowJacketBoss302

Shane, the car has about 2,300 street miles plus about 35 passes down the drag strip. I have not tracked it and I do not get on the brakes hard at the strip. I have braked hard a few times (from low speed) just to see what the antiloc would do. Most of those were in wet weather. And, I have noticed the stability control kick in several times (again in wet weather). The pads seem to have plenty of life left.

The tosen….. hummmmm…. The problem is somewhat turn related (happens only when straight or in a right hand turn --not left). But, listening from the outside of the car as it drives by, I hear the noise much louder at the driver’s rear than anywhere else.

“Half evil” – LOL – I like that!

Scott, I’ll take the wheel off again when we get some dry weather and see if I can move the caliper. The sound definitely increases in frequency as the speed increases, but I’m not sure if it is brake related either. With the wheel I looked for any evidence of scraping. Thought I might see a spot inside the wheel where it might hit the caliper, or something else. I saw nothing unusual. I did not examine the back side of the rotor. How do I get the dust cover off?

One last thing I did notice: with the wheel off the rotor is loose and can be rotated a quarter inch or so. That is to say there is nothing centering the rotor holes on the studs. Should there be this much slop?

Thanks for the thoughts guys.

YellowJacketBoss302

Thanks Mark. I'll recheck that, too. Seems like it was a half inch or so from the rotor.

2012YellowBoss

If the rotor was contacting the pads and making the noise you would have to have many miles on it to see wear on the rotor itself, first the pads would show uneven wear.

The dust cover comes off with three bolts on the inside or the rotor. You would have to pull the rotor off to get at them.

That is normal, nothing to worry about. It sounds like you do not have a lot of knowledge with the brakes, don't take that the wrong way In this case I would highly recommend you have the dealer or other qualified place take a look at it. If the inside pad is not center on the piston that could lead to worse problems down the road. I think it is best to have it checked out.

LagunaBeach

Or you can just take it off completely, it cools the rotors better during "spirited" driving.

5 DOT 0

For fun you should find a deserted road and from about 70 mph stomp on the brakes just at the ABS threshold until you come to a complete stop. This will give you a good idea of what the capabilities are on your Boss. The brakes work very well.

Good luck finding your noise.

FordService

Hi YellowJacketBoss302,

After all of this great advise if you can’t find the concern, please make an appointment with your Ford dealer for diagnosis. Then, PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, and contact info so I can help.

Deysha

boss man

Yellowjacketboss302.....nice build number #911

YellowJacketBoss302

Took Scott and Deysha’s advice and took the car to the dealership. Drove the tech around the parking lot and up and down the highway a bit. Diagnosis was a glazed pad and very slightly warped rotor (not enough to feel). Since the car is stopping fine, I opted not to turn the rotor or anything. I’ll continue monitoring the sound and feel of the brakes. Plan to go to the drag strip this weekend and I’ll get on the brakes a bit harder than normal and see what happens.
Thanks for all the advice.
-- Jim

2012YellowBoss

Jim, good to hear but a couple of things I am not liking about you visit.

First problems just don't go away and a warped rotor will not fix itself. The pads will not wear correctly and can become dangerous. If they do not want to replace/fix it ask Daysha for help since IMHO they should replace or fix this under warranty.

Second there are parts changers and technicians, techs just don't see the final problem and change the part, they look for what caused it. This could have been a bad rotor from new but if it was my car I would want to know what caused this or it will come back again and again. You can keep replacing a burnt out headlight and be fine for a few days but if you don't find out why the bulb keeps burning out you are just running in circles.

It is was me I would have the parts replaced, and find out what caused it. This (IMO) will only get worse - not better over time.

FordService

Great info, 2012YellowBoss!

YellowJacketBoss302, I agree! I recommend you make an appointment and have them find the cause of the problem and repair it. If you need further assistance, please PM me.

Deysha