Hi all, I am a happy new Boss owner and I am following this thread since the begining as I am really interested in the longtube headers and the h-pipe with cats.

I would like to add two more questions:
4. Do you recommend a tune afterwards or would a tune just be nice to have?
5. What is the difference in regards to the pollution after the installation of the longtube headers and the catted h-pipe, i. e. still 50 state legal?

Great work so far!

 

First, I ask for everyone's understanding regarding the delay in the soundclips. I'll get them soon. We had a real personal tragedy today in the Ford GT world - don't want to talk about it now - but we'll have those sound clips soon. Sorry.

4. No need for a tune as the wideband + ECU account fro the headers VERY well.
5. Should have info regarding 50-state legal soon. (Expecting to receive and test the headers any day.)

 

Bump

Wondering if Cool Tech has come up with a solution for an off road pipe(catless) that bolts directly to the factory exhaust headers and factory Boss H pipe with O2 sims?

Thanks

 

I went with a set of GT500 mufflers. From all the information gathered so far, I just can't justify the price/performance for the full catted system. If the substantial gains and wicked sound are to be had only with the off road pipe w/o cats, my budget doesn't have enough room to spend a few grand for 'only' 20-25hp. If I was a hardcore track guy (not now or yet, heh)... the 40+ hp gains for the full system would be worth it for sure. But for now, the GT500s are the best option.

It seems that the more people dig into this car trying to improve it, the more we all realize what a tremendous job the SVT engineers did. They really didn't leave much on the table at all.

 

you sir are correct...


per a powertrain engineer that frequents these boards and I PM with regularly the ONLY place HP was left on the table was with the CATS and only a small amount with the headers for both cost/emissions/noise reasons


I would love to see back to back dynos with no tune comparing the following with ANY aftermarket system

BTW I LOVE Kooks and this is a general test not a Kooks call out by ANY mean

1 all factory oem

2 aftermarket catback only vs oem full oem

3 aftermarket midpipe in both x and h config catted and offroad of each vs full oem
4 headers only vs full factory oem

5 full system vs full factory oem


Through personal research with no tune on a MUSTANG LOADED DYNO the catback is 5-8 hp and a great sound

Aftermarket midpipe in offroad x pipe config is worth 20-25 hp

and headers with midpipe in offroad x config is worth 30-35 hp


My point being that if your car is used for track use an offroad x pipe is the absolute MOST bang for your buck


Headers are not needed until you have forced induction and or a major NA build...the OEM are THAT good


My car made 785 RWHP on a Mustang dyno with the blower and factory headers offroad x pipe and factory midpipes...headers on my application might have added 45 hp and we determined the cost/power factor was not needed because of the power we already made.


These are just my opinions and meant to hopefully see said dyno comparisons so people can determine what they wan to spend on their mods/hp

Also a big shout out to Ford and their engineers on the Boss project for really doing everything they could to make the most hp possible


And in my opinion Kooks has the best options both power and soundwise yet for the SN10 platform


Andy



1

 

I recently met a local tuner and he says losing the cats with an X pipe is good for 20 hp so that jives with what you're saying. He also said that's the easiest place to gain power.

 

 

^^ thank you for that...the decision has been made

Question though: what axle backs are those? The vid says headers and mid pipe or is it the full?

 

This was the text on youtube... didn't see it?

"Jon Roberts purchased a set of 1 3/4" Kooks long-tube headers and catted midpipe from us and recently installed them onto his 2012 Boss 302. It picked up 29 horsepower and 19 ft./lb. of torque on the Dez Racing dyno with no other changes! The exhaust is running through a set of Flowmaster mufflers."

Either way, glad you like what you see and here. No doubt, these headers are verrrrrry nice. Maybe on next year's mod list...

 

Honestly I just clicked and listened here, didn't go to youtube, but thanks. I plan on either full Kooks, or Kooks LT/catted h-pipe with Corsa Extreme or Stainless Works axle backs. No matter which setup I settle on, QTP valves will be used regardless of which I go with

 

So you don't need a custom tune for the LTs?

 

No, a custom tune is NOT needed. The car is VERY good at optimizing a/f's in real time as it is needed.

 

Just wondering if there is any difference? American muscle used a 1 7/8 kooks header on there project car??? looking for the best option before I commit? Anybody??

 

 

trying to find a better sound clip for you, but thats my car in the video since my drivers license read Jonathan Roberts

my car is also the 1 3/4 inch kooks, Dez racing was recommended these to maintain a little more lower rpm torque

i dont like the one i have, will get one from behind the car Wensday, im going in for a little more tuning work..... so far the only changes have been to fix the airfuel for the CAI....... im sure there is a few more HP on the table.

 

No, just keep the OEM parts and swap out when needed to smog. In Cali. its not until the 6th year do you have to smog the car.

Dave

 

not the nest clip, will get one from behind the car in 2 days....

 

Kendal,

I read this entire thread, and only have one question. You had said previously that with the Kooks system on your catted car, and NO tune changes that your car seemed to run noticeably leaner with the Trackey. Is this still the case? Would you NOT recommend driving the car at WOT with the Trackey and this complete Catted Kooks system on the stock tune? Do you just keep using your silver/black key?

 

In the OEM set-up, the red key runs leaner than the black key. With the complete exhaust system in place and NO tune, the red key is once again leaner than the black key. However, BOTH the red key and black key are BOTH a tad RICHER than they were in the OEM configuration.

We've been tracking the heck out of 3 LS's with the red key in 100+ degree heat and the cars are running great. We DO use 100 octane fuel as a precaution when it is available.

 

has any of them been run with 91 or 93 oct in the heat at all or has anyone else allready put LT's and h-pipe on without a tune for a daily driver?