Brake fluid question
Brake fluid question
Im new to performance cars and tracking them. After reading here and another forum brake fluid and pads should be on my short list for my first track day.
Looking at fluid most folks recommend motul.
My question is what is the difference between dry and wet boiling point?
I can read specs and found that motul does seem to be the way to go I just don't understand some of the terminology.
Looking at fluid most folks recommend motul.
My question is what is the difference between dry and wet boiling point?
I can read specs and found that motul does seem to be the way to go I just don't understand some of the terminology.
Dry is the one you need to be concerned about; and that's really all you need to know.
I am a big fan of ATE Super Blue / Typ200.
I am a big fan of ATE Super Blue / Typ200.
Only downside to the Motul is the price, it's like $18 for one half-liter bottle.
+1
Lots of us run ATE. We're running 20-25 minute track sessions. It is reasonably priced, and exceeds our track day needs.
This spring I'll put ATE again for this season--it needs to be replaced every year to keep the water out of it (which is why 06GT said dry boiling point is the one to be concerned about).
Lots of us run ATE. We're running 20-25 minute track sessions. It is reasonably priced, and exceeds our track day needs.
This spring I'll put ATE again for this season--it needs to be replaced every year to keep the water out of it (which is why 06GT said dry boiling point is the one to be concerned about).
Yeah it is a good idea to flush the system once a year, and do a quick bleed maybe every 3 events.
For your general info the dry temp is pure fresh brake fluid, the only way you should run a car on track as stated above. The wet refers to brake fluid that has been contaminated with water from humidity.
Most people never change fluid in their street cars, that is where the wet label comes from. Even in your DD changing brake fluid every two years or less is a good idea.
Most people never change fluid in their street cars, that is where the wet label comes from. Even in your DD changing brake fluid every two years or less is a good idea.
For your general info the dry temp is pure fresh brake fluid, the only way you should run a car on track as stated above. The wet refers to brake fluid that has been contaminated with water from humidity.
Most people never change fluid in their street cars, that is where the wet label comes from. Even in your DD changing brake fluid every two years or less is a good idea.
Most people never change fluid in their street cars, that is where the wet label comes from. Even in your DD changing brake fluid every two years or less is a good idea.
For brake fluid take a look at AP Racing products as well as Endless Rf 650. I think you may find that they are both superior to the motul and brembo.
For pads take a look at Carbotech and PFC.
There is quite a bit of information on pads, and fluid in this forum. Whatever you do PLEASE get a dedicated track pad designed for the track, and high quality race brake fluid. You will thank us for it....
For pads take a look at Carbotech and PFC.
There is quite a bit of information on pads, and fluid in this forum. Whatever you do PLEASE get a dedicated track pad designed for the track, and high quality race brake fluid. You will thank us for it....
For brake fluid take a look at AP Racing products as well as Endless Rf 650. I think you may find that they are both superior to the motul and brembo.
For pads take a look at Carbotech and PFC.
There is quite a bit of information on pads, and fluid in this forum. Whatever you do PLEASE get a dedicated track pad designed for the track, and high quality race brake fluid. You will thank us for it....
For pads take a look at Carbotech and PFC.
There is quite a bit of information on pads, and fluid in this forum. Whatever you do PLEASE get a dedicated track pad designed for the track, and high quality race brake fluid. You will thank us for it....
This bring up another question. Do you change pads at home and drive to the track or change them at the track? I don't have a trailer to haul the car yet.
I added a trailer last fall, so I'll change pads at home.
But without a trailer, you've got 2 basic choices:
1. Streetable track pads
2. Change at track
a. street and track pads compatable to prevent track rotor swap
b. change pads and rotors at track
I don't know about Hawk pads, but Carbotech are rotor compatable across their entire product line. So you could run their "Bobcat" street pads to the track, then change to XP10 front/XP8 rear for the track, and reverse for trip home on the same rotors.
I tried XP10/XP8 on the street, and won't do it this year--fronts squeel like a stuck pig from ~5mph to the stop. I'll run stock pads and rotors on front for street, and swap both for track. I'll try XP8 on back for street.
2012YellowBoss has good luck w/ Hawk HP+ (and I think HPS rear?) for street and track. Sounds like they're good until we learn enough to drive harder. That wouild be a good intial setup to look into.
But without a trailer, you've got 2 basic choices:
1. Streetable track pads
2. Change at track
a. street and track pads compatable to prevent track rotor swap
b. change pads and rotors at track
I don't know about Hawk pads, but Carbotech are rotor compatable across their entire product line. So you could run their "Bobcat" street pads to the track, then change to XP10 front/XP8 rear for the track, and reverse for trip home on the same rotors.
I tried XP10/XP8 on the street, and won't do it this year--fronts squeel like a stuck pig from ~5mph to the stop. I'll run stock pads and rotors on front for street, and swap both for track. I'll try XP8 on back for street.
2012YellowBoss has good luck w/ Hawk HP+ (and I think HPS rear?) for street and track. Sounds like they're good until we learn enough to drive harder. That wouild be a good intial setup to look into.
I don't have the space or towing ability for a trailer, but what I do now is swap the front rotors and pads, and rear pads the night before the event, then drive to/from the event on that setup.
It's noisy, sure, but you only have to deal with it for a limited amount of time (my commutes to the track are typically 20mins or less).
Takes about an hour to swap once you get your methods perfected. Then swap back at home once the event is completed.
It's noisy, sure, but you only have to deal with it for a limited amount of time (my commutes to the track are typically 20mins or less).
Takes about an hour to swap once you get your methods perfected. Then swap back at home once the event is completed.
Wayne,
Traded emails with carbotech and for a novice like me they recommended XP8 front and XP6 rear and said I'd be fine with them as a DD as well. I didn't ask about noise or dust issues tho. I'd be surprised if I get close to 5000 miles a year on this car.
Tim
Traded emails with carbotech and for a novice like me they recommended XP8 front and XP6 rear and said I'd be fine with them as a DD as well. I didn't ask about noise or dust issues tho. I'd be surprised if I get close to 5000 miles a year on this car.
Tim
I don't have the space or towing ability for a trailer, but what I do now is swap the front rotors and pads, and rear pads the night before the event, then drive to/from the event on that setup.
It's noisy, sure, but you only have to deal with it for a limited amount of time (my commutes to the track are typically 20mins or less).
Takes about an hour to swap once you get your methods perfected. Then swap back at home once the event is completed.
It's noisy, sure, but you only have to deal with it for a limited amount of time (my commutes to the track are typically 20mins or less).
Takes about an hour to swap once you get your methods perfected. Then swap back at home once the event is completed.
I'll mostly do autocross with a few track days thrown in.
They also pre-bed the pads as an option for about $15. I did that on my last set. Still need to bed the rotors, but that's easier than the pads.
They sell ATE brake fluid (and 3 others), so consider adding that to your order.
Carbotech isn't the "best" pad, but one worth considering. So far, I like them.
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Joined: October 25, 2010
Posts: 5,279
Likes: 16
From: Dearborn, MI
I looked over your Boss 302 Supplement Guide and found that you should change your brake fluid to Super DOT 4 to improve track performance of the braking system (WSS-M6C65-A2), Ford part number (YS4Z-19542-AA). I hope this helps.
Deysha


