I need to remove the engine oil cooler from the block to get to the oil sending unit and the plug for the block heater.
How do you remove the oil cooler from the block and are there any gaskets that will have to be replaced. Also will any anti freeze come out. Only thing I have done is to drain the oil and remove the filter. As you see I have never done this before and dont know what to expect. I am installing a water temp & oil pressure gauge in my dash pod. any pictures are worth a thousand words.

 

I have not done this myself but this may be a good start.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=822

not sure if the 11 5.0 is the same as the 12 Boss but this only goes 11.

 

You will need a 9/16 hexdriver (allen) to take it off here a link http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...uctions-4.html to a post with pic & torque spec .and a how to when starting with a car that dosen't have one to start with . It Post #54 . I hope this helps .

 

Thanks guys for the information. That helped alot. I borrowed a set of hex drives up to 5/8 so I should be good there. my only concern is the O-ring. Can it be reused? Also when the oil cooler is removed will I loose coolant. It looks like the oil cooler is a sealed unit for coolant to just pass through it. Correct??

 

Hi boss man. You are correct that there will be no coolant loss. Also, I would try lubricating that o-ring and re-using. I'm still not sure why you are removing. I know we added a T fitting (of some sort) onto Apollo's Boss 302 and we never removed the cooler to do it. I know that this space is tight, however.

 

I can only get my fingers on the oil sensor. The only way that I can get to the oil sensor and block heater tap is to remove the oil cooler or
alternator. The oil cooler looks much easier and should give me room to get a wrech in that area....I hope
As for lubricating the O-ring, should I use oil or O-ring grease?

 

You mite not have a choice on reusing the O ring . Ford mite not the sell O ring as a separate item . You mite want to call ford parts dept. first that mite tell you what your choices are .

 

THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP
O-RING IS A SPECIAL ORDER $11.00 FROM FORD PARTS DEPT. THAT WILL TAKE 2 DAYS.

 

I'm really going to try and install my gauges without going through all this.

 

where are you going to install the oil sensor and water temp sensor?? Oil cooler is still on my car so if you have a better / easier location to install Please Share.

 

Glad to see my install thread at AFM may have helped. Taking the air intake box and tube helps access alot too. The tee off of the oil pressure sender and installing the water temp sender in the core plug at the block also is the best for oil pressure and water temp. Check out this thread for the discussion on the gauge installs http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-3...0848/#msg10848

You have to keep the stock oil pressure sender active because otherwise the ECU will sense no OP and put car in limp mode. The o ring on the cooler housing can be reused, I have done it twice already with no problems. The Airlift tool is almost a must and is the actual Ford service tool for the job. Risk of air trapped in the cylinder head water jackets is not worth it, spend the $100 and use it for life to change coolant on all vehicles.
Good Luck
Steve

 

I plan to t it off like you and use the block plug for water temp. I'm catching up on school work so I haven't had time to finish the install. Probably won't get to it until mid January.

 

Well>>>removed the oil cooler with out any problems. Thankyou to everyone who posted with help!!!! Still not a heck of alot of room to work. I installed the Tee for the oil sensor. You have to use a Tee and close nipples with one elbow to be able to get everything to fit in that location. I installed the factory oil sensor on the run of the tee and the ford racing oil sensor on the bull of the tee. Everything has to line up just right for the orginal wiring to fit on the oil sensor...Not much play down there with the wires. Due to the tee being installed and the factory oil sensor and sticking out further. you have to be carefull when reinstalling the oil cooler. the cooler and sensor are very very close. It took about 2 hours to install the ford sensor and reinstall the oil cooler. Used the same O-Ring with no problems. Refilled with Fresh 5/50 oil and fired it up. At cold I was running 100psi and warm 60psi at idle. So far so good with no oil leaks.

Next step is to install the water sensor. Dose anyone know of another location to install the water sensor other than the block heater location. JUST A THOUGHT>>>I would think you could cut into a heater hose or something and use barbed fittings to make the propper connection for the water sensor. Any thoughts, comments or other locations on installing the water sensor.

Thank god the car is stored for the winter so I can take my time. What is cool, is seeing the new Ford gauge pod and gauges come to life. I'm installing for the look more that anything.

 

Boss man,
Glad you went ahead and did the install, regarding the water temp port, I read that someone took the upper radiator hose off of the engine, removed the fitting from the block and drilled and tapped a port for the sender there. Might work, if it was me I w old order a new one from Ford just in case. I went with the freeze plug location as it allowed all 3 of my gauge wires to run from the a pillar to the same general area in a single conduit. Looks very factory and no cut or splice tapped wiring, new source using an add a tap fuse into an unused fuse location under the passenger kick panel.
Steve

 

Here is another option. I have a Greddy one in my garage but its not big enough. Not sure what size our hose is but this is how I originally planned to install the water temp gauge.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/28-mm...achment-1.aspx

 

I like that idea. I think I will go with that. My son inlaw was telling me about the same thing just yesterday. the price is right and alot less hassel then trying to get to the block heater tap. Now all we need to know is what size is the upper hose in MM. any idea anyone.

 

The lower hose is 36mm ID. That said, and this is a trick solution - but why not the block heater point? I think it is a 3/4" NPT. You can get a brass reducer from 3/4" to 5/8" at Home Depot. My gauge kit had the reducers from 5/8" on.

 

Exactly how I did it, with the cooler out of the way it was easier than the oil pressure.
Steve

 

I sure agree to install it in the block.Installing in the hose does not tell you what is going on within the engine untill it is to late and does not give you true temp. readings. This did happen to me and my race engines were all modified for internal temp. readings including exhaust. Take3 it for what it is worth.

 

All information has use. Thats the beauty of TMS. Thank you for the feed back.