I went to my dealer this past weekend to look at the 2015 Mustangs in the show room. The dealer is offering me $20,000 for my 2012 GT premium with 25,500 miles. The 15" 2.3 premium convertible with PP and Navi. is $38,400 MSRP. I asked him if he had any room on the MSRP and he said no. I think the best I can do is maybe ask for $21,000 for my 2012 when I go test drive the EcoBoost Fastback this upcoming weekend. I'm also going to put a down payment of $5000 so my monthly payment will be $390 a month for 36 months at .9% interest.

1, Is this price good? I'm basically paying MSRP for this new convertible. Should I try and get him to go below MSRP?

2, The spare tire option is not available if you get the PP. Does it at least come with a tire inflator/sealant kit? Should I just buy a spare wheel somewhere such as Americanmuscle?

 

My calculations show a payment of $349 to 377, depending on whether or not you get that extra $1000 for your car. Unless tax/title/tags is being added in.

 

You should be able to get below MSRP. If nothing else, join the Mustang Club of America and get x-plan pricing.

 

I bought my EB premium in November and I didn't pay close MSRP.

Perhaps shop around - you may find one at a dealer not far from you willing to give you a better deal. As far as trade-in, if you base it off Edmunds, the 20-21K isn't bad.

 

when he said $390 a month tax is included, title and tag is not added.

 

how much below MSRP should I aim for? $1000-2000 below?

 

Go onto Consumer Reports and order a vehicle report. It'll cost you $10-$15.

Select the 2015 Mustang. It's zip code driven, and it'll spit out all the price/cost data for all available models in three catagories....MSRP, dealer invoice, and the typical price range that similar cars have been actually selling for in your area.

Take the lowest price, offer $1000 under that amount, and work up to within the range that Consumer Reports has indicated if necessary.

If the dealer stands firm on MSRP, be polite and tell him that you'll look elswhere and head towards the door. The dealer will not let a sure sale walk away. If he does, he's not a smart businessman. Don't be afraid to stand your ground.

 

If he's not willing to move off MSRP, then tell him your willing to shop elsewhere. Hopefully you have other dealerships to shop at? If not, tell him your also looking at Camaros and Chargers.

Don

 

Or you could go on Edmunds.com for FREE and their program will show you a fair dealer price for your area.

On an "ORDER-OUT" vehicle, I've always paid $100 over Invoice, but my dealer's "normal" deal for anything "off the lot" is 1% over invoice.

X-Plan pricing is a good deal, but more than $100 over invoice.

There are dealers out there that give much better pricing than my small local dealer does, so you just need to do some research in your area.

Unless you are buying a low volume car (like 50th Aniv or GT350), and you just have to have it MSRP is not a bad deal !! But paying MSRP for any variation of a regular V6, EB, or GT is just silly.

Doug

 

Or you could do the same thing for free on truecar.com. Plus then get a locked in rate that's well below MSRP.

 

Use the advice here. You can get X-Plan pricing from MCA, or aim for a couple hundred over invoice without it. But, Edmunds likely will tell you about the same.

 

Free is even better.

 

The dealer was telling me something about how he can take $500 off MSRP but the APR won't be the same, like instead of .9% for 36 months it'll be 2 percent or whatever. I'm thinking about asking for $21,500 for my car now but pay MSRP for the 2015. I checked TrueCar, and on average people in my area are paying $1500 below MSRP.

 

The 500 is a rebate. So you either get the 500 rebate or the better APR, they won't give you both.

 

I always go in and tell them I don't have a trade in. I get the best price I can on the new one and then ask would would you give me on trade. I think there's less room for them to play with the numbers.
Shop around sometimes a road trip is worth a few bucks

 

You should be able to get $2k off assuming they can turn your trade in quickly. If they think they are going to sit on it long, they likely won't budge much.

 

Folks who pay MSRP are a dealer's favorite customer. Don't be that. One word, "invoice".

 

Truecar worked very well for me. It got me even more money off of the car than we originally agreed on. I will use Truecar for every car purchase. Only downside were all the phone calls from different dealerships for several days - even after my purchase was completed.

 

Hey Will3212,

That's a good question and we have a few options available if you're looking for a spare wheel/tire but it may not match exactly what's on the car you're looking to have picked up. I'm a little bit OCD and I would shoot for a full set (Or have it be the all weather set) and then use your OEM set for warmer months.

Let me know if you're to have any questions at all, I'm always around to help!

Alex

 

It's either/or but you can still get a much better deal. Go to other dealers in your area online and let them know what price you have and aske for their best price. You can even say you want Xplan (I'm not an MCA member and I got it) and see what they send. Then go back to the original dealer with the best quote and see if they will match or beat it .