Engine break in? How many miles
The first 500 miles is the break-in period. On my '14 I made sure to be all over the rev range in the first 500 miles, then drive it like I normally did. But I still feel like it took the first track day to real break the car in. With ~3000 miles on it I took it to a road course, where it ate ~1QT of oil in the first 3 sessions. Then in the remaining 5 sessions it didn't use a drop, and hasn't used any oil since (now over 11,000 miles!)
But I still feel like it took the first track day to real break the car in. With ~3000 miles on it I took it to a road course, where it ate ~1QT of oil in the first 3 sessions. Then in the remaining 5 sessions it didn't use a drop, and hasn't used any oil since (now over 11,000 miles!)
Most info says rings are seated quickly within like 100 miles. But I don't know where the excessive oil usage on the 5.0 would come from if it isn't the rings.
I don't know any reports on any engine that valve seals need "seating".The 4.6L3V wasn't like that. The Manual says mix up the rpm range the first 1000 miles. I quickly worked up to redline (up and out) after the first 100 hundred miles and then played throughout the range - including decel. First oil change at 700 miles, no usage.
<BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.>
Now with 31k, only used 1/2 qt at 5600 miles (with oil sep).
Last edited by cdynaco; Dec 15, 2014 at 08:47 PM.
I checked my oil at 100 mi at was about 1/2 qt down. I then worked the engine very good between 100 and 500 miles. Hasn't used a drop since. I worked for a reputable Corvette race car builder during the early mid 2000's and we would get engines from our build room, install in car, heat cycle a few times on chassis dyno, make sure no leaks and then wide open throttle a ton of times full power.
They always ran beautiful and never an issue. Was told they will seat the rings within 20 min of hard running. If they don't seat right away, they then have a hard time seating over time and will use oil until then. We used conventional Kendall 10w40 for break in (LSX & LT5 DOHC engines), and then Redline 10w40 at track.
They always ran beautiful and never an issue. Was told they will seat the rings within 20 min of hard running. If they don't seat right away, they then have a hard time seating over time and will use oil until then. We used conventional Kendall 10w40 for break in (LSX & LT5 DOHC engines), and then Redline 10w40 at track.
Drive it like you will normally drive it. For me, that's high rpm in the first three gears lol, I got sideways in front of my dealership immediately after finishing the paperwork. Ok ok it's s roush car in front of a roush dealership so that's kinda expected ha!
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Page 5 also clearly states, do not add any type of friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating..
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Dec 16, 2014 at 01:14 PM.
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The owners manual doesn't mention anything about that ! From my understanding, it just states to change the oil every 3000 miles or every 3 months
I didn't get much of a break in. My car had to be transported 183 miles from the original dealer to my dealer. Based on google maps, the distance comes to 185 miles. So he must have found a shortcut to shave some miles off and it must have had close to no miles on it when he started. I hope he treated it gently!!!

The filter should catch it but as a precaution you will read many change it out. I did at 700mi. on Bullitt and always have on a new engine before 1k hits the clock.
Last edited by cdynaco; Dec 16, 2014 at 03:45 PM.
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Many feel better about changing the factory oil within the first 1000 miles in case of any particles from assembly. You know, bearing material, filings, gasket shavings, cigarette butts, beer tabs... 
The filter should catch it but as a precaution you will read many change it out. I did at 700mi. on Bullitt and always have on a new engine before 1k hits the clock.

The filter should catch it but as a precaution you will read many change it out. I did at 700mi. on Bullitt and always have on a new engine before 1k hits the clock.
Many feel better about changing the factory oil within the first 1000 miles in case of any particles from assembly. You know, bearing material, filings, gasket shavings, cigarette butts, beer tabs...
The filter should catch it but as a precaution you will read many change it out. I did at 700mi. on Bullitt and always have on a new engine before 1k hits the clock.
The filter should catch it but as a precaution you will read many change it out. I did at 700mi. on Bullitt and always have on a new engine before 1k hits the clock.
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