grandpa mustang

Hi,

I'm new to the forums here, new to mustangs, and certainly new to this 2014 5.0 GT that my wife just got.

it has 28,000 miles on it

we bought it from a used car dealer, (probably not the greatest idea, we have an extended warranty on it, (although I don't know yet exactly what all that's going to cover)

Today for the first time, I actually got the courage to open the hood, (I am completely intimidated by this car for some reason, no kidding) it's taken me a week just to get used to the idea that this car is sitting in our driveway ...

I have no idea what I have here in this car, I know zilch about mustangs, and am hoping for a little guidance and advice.

so I uploaded a few pictures so you can maybe tell me what I have.

the first thing I want to do is address the oil, it shows full on the dip stick, but looks dirty enough that I would guess it's probably never been changed, and I want to do something about that right now.

According to the owners manual, it's supposed to take 8 quarts of synthetic 5W-50, or 5W-20, depending on which 5.0 engine I have ...

it says something about track pack, what's that? and do I have it? or can you tell?

if it has track pack, it says i'm supposed to use 5W-50, if I don't have track pack, I'm supposed to use 5W-20

also, I have yet to get under the car and look around, I need to get it on flat ground and get some good ramps or something to drive it up on, so at this point, although I hate places like jiffy lube (I always change my own oil on everything else, I wonder if I would be better off to have them do it? just for now to get something clean in it? maybe buy my own oil and filter and take it in and ask them to change it? just some ideas.

also, how hard or easy is this to change oil on? I have an old jeep, and an old Chevy pickup and both them are super easy, how is this going to be compared to them.

last question, what filter do I want to buy - at this point, until I can get set up to properly care for this car, I think my best bet is to buy the proper oil and filter and go to one of those oil change places and pay them to change it, but watch them like a hawk while they do the work.

go ahead and fire away, I'm starting a new learning curve with this car, and right now, it has me pretty well freaked it.

berzerk_1980

To get you started, you have a non-track pack GT Premium with the upgraded ("401A") interior. You will get tons of opinions on oil change frequency and oil brands on this forum. I change the oil when the intelligent oil life monitor tells me to. I have the dealership do it and use Motorcraft 5W-50 (I have the track pack).

SpectreH

I change mine every 5000 miles because I just can't get comfortable with the idea of 7500-10000 between changes. For filters, I use either the Motocraft filter or a Wix.

Oil change itself is easy. Filter access from below after you remove three screws (they are marked) to swing a pan out of the way.

grandpa mustang

ok, so I'm going to want 8 quarts of a good 5W-20 synthetic oil? and a WIX or Motorcraft filter for a ford 302?

Gabe

Congrats on your Mustang!.
Like mentioned above, no it's not a Track Pack, and it's not a Brembo pack car either.
While that means you have the more basic front brake package, it also means your options are almost limitless when it comes to aftermarket wheels, in case you might want to change them

The '13-'14 Track Pack includes Brembo front brakes, 19"x9" wheels, 255/40/19 Pirelli summer tires, Boss302 oil cooler, Boss302 radiator, Boss302 rear axle with Torsen limited-slip differential and 3.73 gears, and different tuning for the Advancetrac stability control system.

As far as oil, synthetic blend is all the factory recommends for your car, and in 5w20 weight.

That being said, you can certainly use full synthetic, and I love Amsoil oils.
If you go to their site www.amsoil.com you can sign up as a Preferred Customer for $20/year and you get almost wholesale pricing.
This is the way I buy my stuff through them.
And they sell Wix filters as well as their own Amsoil-brand filters.
You can use the Ford Motorcraft FL820 oil filter, even though the car normally takes a slightly smaller filter.
The FL820 is also available as a Ford Racing part, for more money and supposedly a higher-performance filter.

frank s

You have a very nice, user-friendly car that will make you quite happy once it senses you are no longer so apprehensive about it sitting in your driveway.

Zipping directly to your neighborhood Valvoline Quick-change artist will alleviate much of your unease, and then you have six months and/or 5,000 miles to decide whether to proceed farther.

It may not be that the oil is actually dirty, but is some off-brand (Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc.) or loaded with some goofball additives, but it is always a good idea to start anew if there is no record of previous changes available. Last time I looked, Walmart has good prices on your choice of oils and filters. I'd select the Ford full-synthetic and a Ford filter. Later on, after you've read several years'-worth of online forums, you might be tempted to choose another brand, but the truth is that for everyday driving, any name-brand product of the right viscosity will do the job as well as it needs to be done.

Meantime, get yourself out there with some microfiber and caress that beauty with accompanying sweet words, and you will be happier with every stroke.

Joeywhat

I've found that the Amsoil OE series oil is about the same price as Motorcraft (if you're a "member" or have an account or whatever it is...), so that's what I use. I've always switched to the Ford Racing oil filter, as it's considerably larger. Just piece of mind I guess, it is a bit more expensive than the stock filter.

jc46002003

@grandpa mustang

I found your post rather neat to read as I was in your shoes before. Great questions.

I always use the FL500-S Ford recommends due to the internal valve required ( I think it's for cold starts ). I've used Mobile 1 and MotorCraft syn blend.

Here's a good video on the 5.0 oil change process.


Would recommend putting in 7 quarts, then check, then add till the oil is in the middle of the hash on the stick.

The 5.0 4V and the 6r80 automatic are each really great designs. One of the very few products I like from Ford.

Use that select shift from time to time for some fun. To do so, pull the shifter down to the 'S' position and use the up an down button on the shifter to shift up and down.

so stang

Hi,
i'm in the UK and bought a 2014 5.0 GT.. which was advertised with a performance pack, is this also known as the track pack? I've definitely got brembo brakes and 19" rims..
and annoyingly a whiney trans/diff..
this post took my eye as my service light has come on, which by the way here in the uk is the same symbol as engine management light, crapped myself at first..
cheers.
Paul



best colour, recaro seats, performance/track pack.





couldn't resist the plate, so stang or 5.0 stang

redneb

That dipstick photo doesn't look all that bad. I follow the IOLM (intelligent oil life monitor). It gives you a 7,000 + mile change frequency. With almost 8 quarts in there, the oil should last longer than in your normal 4-5 quart 4 or 6 cyl engine. Like others, I have the dealer to it. The dealer I bought from offered free lifetime oil changes so why not? I do change the oil myself in 3 of my other cars and have done so for the last 37 years. I will caution this, if you start driving it like it should be driven, with regular wide open throttle, you will use some oil. Most of it seems to go to blow by, but check your dipstick in between changes. You may need to add a 1/2 quart now and then. Of course if you just cruise in it, this may never be an issue.

2011 Kona Blue

OP, Congrats on the new mustang. A trac PAC 5.0 and a non trac PAC 5.0 have the same exact engine. The trac pac has to do with handing upgrades, brake upgrades and tires. Ford thinks that people who buy the trac pac are going to be racing the car so they recommend 5W 50 weight just as the Boss. The heavier weight is best for people who are tracking their cars and pushing them to their limits.

If your not tracking your 5.0 no need for 5W 50 weight. I know your oil cap reads 5W 20 but I personally don't recommend that weight. Put in 5W 30 oil weight. The 5W 20 weight is nothing more than compliance with the U.S. CAFE regulations.

If you are operating your pony under normal driving conditions, no need to change the oil less than 10k miles yearly or once a year. Which ever comes first. No need to throw out perfectly good oil because of peoples mental illness about oil changes intervals that went out back in 90's.

Just use a good quality fully synthetic base IV oil and filter. I would recommend Mobil 1 extended performance with a Royal Purple extended drain oil filter. Redline, Royal Purple and Amsoil are also great synthetic motor oils as well.

If you don't know for a fact when the oil and filter was changed last I personally would have it done now. That way you can start a baseline and keep your own records of oil and filter changes.

Gabe

What's your VIN?



.

grandpa mustang

Kona Blue, thanks for explaining the track pack thing, no, this car is not going to be raced or tracked, I wish I would of read your post before I went shopping for oil and a filter tonight, I think I did ok, but if I screwed up and got the wrong stuff, maybe someone can speak up.

I plan on changing the oil this weekend, I stopped off at Walmart tonight after work and picked up 2 - 5 quart jugs of mobile 1 advanced full synthetic 5W-20 and a Fram Ultra Synthetic XG10575 oil filter (pictures attached)

the Walmart I went to didn't have a whole lot of choices in either the filters or the 5W-20 oil, I would have gotten the 5W-30 as you suggested had I read your post before I went shopping, so hopefully, what I have now will work until I change the oil again, which I think should be in about 7,000 miles? someone here suggested that millage anyway.

so is what I got going to be ok, or do I need to take it back and get the 5W-30, and a different filter?

the 5W30 synthetic blend in the photo is for a Jeep we have, I figured I'd do both cars this weekend, it's not for the mustang.

grandpa mustang

another kinda dumb question, I just watched that video that jc46002003 posted, as well as read a how to I found through a google search, they say to jack up the side of the car, and put jack stands under it, but it looks like the oil drains from the back center of the oil pan, and the filter is on the front of the engine.

I have a set of ramps like the ones in the photo, is there some reason why you wouldn't want to drive it up on the ramps? seems like it would make the oil change a lot easier to me, unless there no room to slide the ramps under the front of the car, I haven't tried to size the ramps up to the car yet, maybe they won't fit? that's the only reason I can think of as to why you wouldn't want to use ramps ..

I know it sounds kind of dumb to even ask such a question, but everything else I own are 4x4's, no clearance issues with them ... it's been years since I've own a low sitting 2 wheel drive car.

2011 Kona Blue

NOT FRAM OIL FILTER. NO NO NO NO NO, NEVER! Fram filters are garbage and junk. I would return that Fram ASAP and get a napa gold, Purolator one filter.

grandpa mustang

ok, thanks, they did have the Motorcraft FL500S, I can stop by tomorrow and get that one.

2011 Kona Blue

The motorcraft filter is really good as well. Good choice with the Mobil 1 and you will be fine with the 5W 20.

Gabe

Motorcraft makes some of the best oil filters on the market.
Tested true.
Don't have the link to the test, it was a few years ago that I saw/read it.

These days I'll only use Motorcraft, Wix, or Amsoil filters.
I usually buy them when I buy the oil so I just buy Wix since Amsoil sells them.

My current collection:




And no, I'm not a fan of Mobil 1 oil.
I switched to it on my '07 Charger R/T (5.7 Hemi V8) at 22k miles when I had the heads/cam done, and the car was going through about a quart of oil every ~3k miles.
Switched to a custom-blended oil and my consumption went to about a half-quart every 6-7k miles.

These days I can't afford the $13/quart pricing of the custom-blended stuff (Quantum Blue oils) so I only use Amsoil. I signed up as a Preferred Customer ($10/6 mo, $20/yr, or $80/5 yrs I think) and I'm getting huge discounts off their regular pricing.


.

Gabe

Also, if you want to keep your warranty, I'd keep using the manufacturer-recommended 5w20 weight.
If you have an engine issue where the dealer will ask for oil-change receipts, your receipts showing purchases of oil and filters at regular intervals is all you need, but if the receipts will show 5w30 or other weight other than the recommended 5w20, they can quickly deny warranty coverage.

I was a Ford Service Advisor for 10 years, been there done that.

Jazzman442

I'm with Gabe.. Use Ford oil or some thing that has the new Ford Spec for oil. Very few manufacturers have this new spec especially for the 5 50 oil. Use the Ford oil Filter. There a a few types but the Ford Dealer here charges just under 5 dollars for one. This will keep your warranty.

Your car uses the Cheaper oil 5 20 or 5 30 So Use the Ford.

Nice car enjoy!!