EPAS Rack steering fights me. Pulls left. It's Alive!!!
#1
EPAS Rack steering fights me. It's Alive!!!
So my 2013 GT has a life of its own. The nick name for it is K.I.T. from Knightrider.
This all started when I drove home and finally settled into the car. I noticed the steering had play and would oversteer. I would be fighting pressure mostly pulling left to keep it straight with right wheel input. Scheduled an appt with Ford. Still have bumper to bumper.
While waiting 2 days for appt brought it to my own shop. They said it was the universal joint that connects the steering rod to the EPAS Rack. Ford said the same thing and that it was a manufacturing defect and fixed it. Wheel is snug but once in a while and not consistently especially with moderate to heavy braking or quick movement without brakes the car pulls left mostly. At slow speeds I might have to fight the pressures a little too, but the steering wheel is stiff with no play now.
A long story short Ford took some of the previous owners mods off including headers and long pipes and stuck stock exhaust on for emissions even though there are no inspections here.
I watched the Ford mechanic change the universal joint ***whacking the old one off with a mallet.*** Come to find out from the Mustang speciality shop that this is not good and prob how they bent the steering universal joint. That it needs to be loosened from the top of the shaft.
Our theory is they stressed the EPAS unit too and why it wigs out a couple times a month????
I just have to convince Ford to change it. $1100 to $1500 for the part. But i almost just want the part to have someone else do it or maybe another dealer.
Seeing a mallet used on your car is a bad omen.
Anyone else have steering issue with EPAS?
This all started when I drove home and finally settled into the car. I noticed the steering had play and would oversteer. I would be fighting pressure mostly pulling left to keep it straight with right wheel input. Scheduled an appt with Ford. Still have bumper to bumper.
While waiting 2 days for appt brought it to my own shop. They said it was the universal joint that connects the steering rod to the EPAS Rack. Ford said the same thing and that it was a manufacturing defect and fixed it. Wheel is snug but once in a while and not consistently especially with moderate to heavy braking or quick movement without brakes the car pulls left mostly. At slow speeds I might have to fight the pressures a little too, but the steering wheel is stiff with no play now.
A long story short Ford took some of the previous owners mods off including headers and long pipes and stuck stock exhaust on for emissions even though there are no inspections here.
I watched the Ford mechanic change the universal joint ***whacking the old one off with a mallet.*** Come to find out from the Mustang speciality shop that this is not good and prob how they bent the steering universal joint. That it needs to be loosened from the top of the shaft.
Our theory is they stressed the EPAS unit too and why it wigs out a couple times a month????
I just have to convince Ford to change it. $1100 to $1500 for the part. But i almost just want the part to have someone else do it or maybe another dealer.
Seeing a mallet used on your car is a bad omen.
Anyone else have steering issue with EPAS?
Last edited by Fireball241; 10/15/15 at 11:43 AM.
#2
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...-broke-530622/
After doing some reading on this forum it seems stressing the steering rod could cause the EPAS connection to loose some "teeth" from another thread. It does look like the steering joint connects to black plastic on the outside. I can't imagine it being plastic on the inside. Must be water proofing.
The universal joint replaced is on the steering rod. It connects to the metal that connect to that black plastic piece. The black piece spins and turns as some sorta sensor on the EPAS unit that is connected to the Rack.
Whacking this with a mallet to force the old joint off just does not seem like a good idea. Mustang experts said there is a way to loosen the joint from the top to take it off.
They must have done it to remove the headers. And they did it again in front of me while I was watching them work to remove the joint again and replace with a new joint. The mechanic also asked another one if this is the car they did the header's on (which were Kook per shop that did all the mods). I asked service rep and they said they have to do it for emissions requirements. They also took the LTs off and put Cats back on. (in a state that has no inspection) I bought the car with lots of mods and bought the car for the mods.
I really enjoy the car. I have learned a lot about Mustang mods and tuning. I also removed the Clutch Assist spring and wow. So much more control and less problems with shifting at high rpm. There were also some other issues with tuning except to say that if a mod Mustang is modified by Ford (like swapping exhaust) get a custom tune so it is not running rich or lean and smooth. All this has made the car a pleasure to drive progressively over the last 6 months. I just feel like some times I am fighting a force feedback joystick in a computer game still. This is just the last piece in the puzzle of this muscle car that was quiet frankly a little scary a few months ago.
Proud first time owner of a 2 year old Mustang with mods
After doing some reading on this forum it seems stressing the steering rod could cause the EPAS connection to loose some "teeth" from another thread. It does look like the steering joint connects to black plastic on the outside. I can't imagine it being plastic on the inside. Must be water proofing.
The universal joint replaced is on the steering rod. It connects to the metal that connect to that black plastic piece. The black piece spins and turns as some sorta sensor on the EPAS unit that is connected to the Rack.
Whacking this with a mallet to force the old joint off just does not seem like a good idea. Mustang experts said there is a way to loosen the joint from the top to take it off.
They must have done it to remove the headers. And they did it again in front of me while I was watching them work to remove the joint again and replace with a new joint. The mechanic also asked another one if this is the car they did the header's on (which were Kook per shop that did all the mods). I asked service rep and they said they have to do it for emissions requirements. They also took the LTs off and put Cats back on. (in a state that has no inspection) I bought the car with lots of mods and bought the car for the mods.
I really enjoy the car. I have learned a lot about Mustang mods and tuning. I also removed the Clutch Assist spring and wow. So much more control and less problems with shifting at high rpm. There were also some other issues with tuning except to say that if a mod Mustang is modified by Ford (like swapping exhaust) get a custom tune so it is not running rich or lean and smooth. All this has made the car a pleasure to drive progressively over the last 6 months. I just feel like some times I am fighting a force feedback joystick in a computer game still. This is just the last piece in the puzzle of this muscle car that was quiet frankly a little scary a few months ago.
Proud first time owner of a 2 year old Mustang with mods
Last edited by Fireball241; 10/6/15 at 11:28 PM.
#3
Trying to give the benefit of the doubt with this. I do have Pirelli on the front. A thread said they can promote this. It is just these steering issues are not that consistent and more likely occasional.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramlining
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramlining
Last edited by Fireball241; 10/6/15 at 11:11 PM.
#4
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So my 2013 GT has a life of its own. The nick name for it is K.I.T. from Knightrider.
This all started when I drove home and finally settled into the car. I noticed the steering had play and would oversteer. I would be fighting pressure mostly pulling left to keep it straight with right wheel input. Scheduled an appt with Ford. Still have bumper to bumper. ...
This all started when I drove home and finally settled into the car. I noticed the steering had play and would oversteer. I would be fighting pressure mostly pulling left to keep it straight with right wheel input. Scheduled an appt with Ford. Still have bumper to bumper. ...
Welcome to the forum! I’m happy to get this escalated for you. Please make another appointment with your dealer, and PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and best daytime number.
Deysha
#5
Thank you so much for the option.
I have been solving the puzzle of this mod Mustang.
I will say that taking the Clutch Assist spring off has given me a lot more control and increased the stability of the car. I can't see many people wanting to leave it on if they knew what taking if off would be like unless they are a very petite person with very little strength.
I am still analyzing the problem and may change the front wheels to reduce Tramline and get the 3d Geometric Alignment before I pursue a EPAS replacement.
I am waiting for the car to pull or electronically force fight me again and so far it has not. It might also be due to downshifting when the Clutch Assist Spring was still on the car causing Tramline.
I really do not want to go through a EPAS replacement. I hope it does not happen anymore. I hope these less expensive, although not covered under warrantee, possible fixes like replacing the front tires and alignment check solve the issues.
Do you think it is possible that banging on the steering shaft with a hammer could have damaged the EPAS? It looks like plastic, but I imagine that it is mostly metal. The car 99% of the time steers fine and normal with just some minor electrical forces that I actually think are normal due to the road.
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Is it possible to have an engineer from Ford that is an expert on the EPAS call me. I want him to evaluate if it is possible for the EPAS to be damaged by using a mallet on the steering shaft to replace the universal joint that connects to the EPAS?
The EPAS is not putting out any error codes, however, the computer at the Ford Dealership does not pull up past history. I understand that a point steering check history would require a special computer that dealerships do not have. That replacing the EPAS is more economical. I am just not there yet with this.
.
.
.
.
.
I would like to document this problem and get conformation that it is on file with Ford. Sending information.
I love the car.
I have been solving the puzzle of this mod Mustang.
I will say that taking the Clutch Assist spring off has given me a lot more control and increased the stability of the car. I can't see many people wanting to leave it on if they knew what taking if off would be like unless they are a very petite person with very little strength.
I am still analyzing the problem and may change the front wheels to reduce Tramline and get the 3d Geometric Alignment before I pursue a EPAS replacement.
I am waiting for the car to pull or electronically force fight me again and so far it has not. It might also be due to downshifting when the Clutch Assist Spring was still on the car causing Tramline.
I really do not want to go through a EPAS replacement. I hope it does not happen anymore. I hope these less expensive, although not covered under warrantee, possible fixes like replacing the front tires and alignment check solve the issues.
Do you think it is possible that banging on the steering shaft with a hammer could have damaged the EPAS? It looks like plastic, but I imagine that it is mostly metal. The car 99% of the time steers fine and normal with just some minor electrical forces that I actually think are normal due to the road.
.
.
.
.
?
Is it possible to have an engineer from Ford that is an expert on the EPAS call me. I want him to evaluate if it is possible for the EPAS to be damaged by using a mallet on the steering shaft to replace the universal joint that connects to the EPAS?
The EPAS is not putting out any error codes, however, the computer at the Ford Dealership does not pull up past history. I understand that a point steering check history would require a special computer that dealerships do not have. That replacing the EPAS is more economical. I am just not there yet with this.
.
.
.
.
.
I would like to document this problem and get conformation that it is on file with Ford. Sending information.
I love the car.
Last edited by Fireball241; 10/9/15 at 09:32 PM.
#6
6 month ago we bought a 2014 mustang that had only 9500 miles on it and seemed to have no problems. The price was low enough I figured it had a problem. Being a mechanic myself since 1976 I went over it with a fine tooth comb and could find nothing wrong. I drove the car and took it from city to hwy and back, ( via the route the salesman directed me to take). Still no problems found. It wasn't until we got the car back to our home town that we noticed that the EPAS had a mind of it's own. Mainly at low speeds ( under 40 mph) and it would almost take the wheel out of your hands and turn sharp right or left on its own. This didn't feel like a tire pull and wasn't a brake pull. The suspension is tight and solid. No signs of damage. Took it to the dealer we bought it from and they said the Alignment was off and causing it. Being an ex alignment man (15 years) I doubted this was the case, but the caster was off to the negative by many degrees. $150 later and it is now 100% predictable as to when the EPAS will take over. At low speeds (under 40mph) on roads with even slight ruts in it, and by ruts I mean the groove semi truck leave in the asphalt after years of use. As the car moves either right or left and one tire rises in elevation and the other lowers..... the EPAS will take over and try to jerk the wheel out of your hands to the up hill side. This is mostly toward the center line and on coming traffic as this is mainly the high part of the road. This is a very dangerous situation and after going to the dealer again they refuse to acknowledge a problem. I looked up the original owner and called them, they had the problem since the day they bought the car and had taken it to several dealers with no resolve. So they traded it off because they felt is was to dangerous to keep...... and Ford wouldn't or couldn't fix it....... I am wondering if this suspension system has a road level or tilt sensor that would apply steering assistance to help hold the car on a banked road or track?? I asked this at 2 Ford dealer shops and got blank stares and shoulders shrugged and Tech walked away....... I have done the following:
1) Alignment
2) Checked steering shaft from wheel to EPAS including ujoints and all are tight and smooth
3) Changed front tires ( two different styles) car does same thing with all 3 tires
4) Checked rear suspension and all is tight and in perfect alignment
5) Front suspension tight and in perfect alignment
This has to be the EPAS or a related sensor. Does anyone have an idea??
1) Alignment
2) Checked steering shaft from wheel to EPAS including ujoints and all are tight and smooth
3) Changed front tires ( two different styles) car does same thing with all 3 tires
4) Checked rear suspension and all is tight and in perfect alignment
5) Front suspension tight and in perfect alignment
This has to be the EPAS or a related sensor. Does anyone have an idea??
#7
Mach 1 Member
If the previous owner told the dealer about the safety defect, the dealer who sold you the car has violated a law. They might want to deal with the defect rather than have the District Attorney serve them. I'd be looking for a TSB in this area.
EPAS is programmable in lots of ways; perhaps there is a dealer who actually knows how it operates, and could get it to work properly.
EPAS is programmable in lots of ways; perhaps there is a dealer who actually knows how it operates, and could get it to work properly.
#8
6 month ago we bought a 2014 mustang that had only 9500 miles on it and seemed to have no problems. The price was low enough I figured it had a problem. Being a mechanic myself since 1976 I went over it with a fine tooth comb and could find nothing wrong. I drove the car and took it from city to hwy and back, ( via the route the salesman directed me to take). Still no problems found. It wasn't until we got the car back to our home town that we noticed that the EPAS had a mind of it's own. Mainly at low speeds ( under 40 mph) and it would almost take the wheel out of your hands and turn sharp right or left on its own. This didn't feel like a tire pull and wasn't a brake pull. The suspension is tight and solid. No signs of damage. Took it to the dealer we bought it from and they said the Alignment was off and causing it. Being an ex alignment man (15 years) I doubted this was the case, but the caster was off to the negative by many degrees. $150 later and it is now 100% predictable as to when the EPAS will take over. At low speeds (under 40mph) on roads with even slight ruts in it, and by ruts I mean the groove semi truck leave in the asphalt after years of use. As the car moves either right or left and one tire rises in elevation and the other lowers..... the EPAS will take over and try to jerk the wheel out of your hands to the up hill side. This is mostly toward the center line and on coming traffic as this is mainly the high part of the road. This is a very dangerous situation and after going to the dealer again they refuse to acknowledge a problem. I looked up the original owner and called them, they had the problem since the day they bought the car and had taken it to several dealers with no resolve. So they traded it off because they felt is was to dangerous to keep...... and Ford wouldn't or couldn't fix it....... I am wondering if this suspension system has a road level or tilt sensor that would apply steering assistance to help hold the car on a banked road or track?? I asked this at 2 Ford dealer shops and got blank stares and shoulders shrugged and Tech walked away....... I have done the following:
1) Alignment
2) Checked steering shaft from wheel to EPAS including ujoints and all are tight and smooth
3) Changed front tires ( two different styles) car does same thing with all 3 tires
4) Checked rear suspension and all is tight and in perfect alignment
5) Front suspension tight and in perfect alignment
This has to be the EPAS or a related sensor. Does anyone have an idea??
1) Alignment
2) Checked steering shaft from wheel to EPAS including ujoints and all are tight and smooth
3) Changed front tires ( two different styles) car does same thing with all 3 tires
4) Checked rear suspension and all is tight and in perfect alignment
5) Front suspension tight and in perfect alignment
This has to be the EPAS or a related sensor. Does anyone have an idea??
Your car may be out of alignment again or not aligned with the proper equipment if lowered.
Also the tire circumference has to be stock on front for computers???
Width too??
If your car is stock you need to push for a $2000 new EPAS. Dont let up. Warrantee.
Last edited by Fireball241; 2/5/16 at 06:42 PM.
#9
One of the reasons I traded my V6 for the GT was that car pulled to the left lightly all the time. Obviously left crowned roads, like the fast lane on the higway made it worse, but even driving down the center of my own street at 20 MPH it would pull left.
Had it to the dealer several times and they "re-initilized" EPAS once. Alignment was checked several times and was dead on. Don't know and don't care what was really wrong with it anymore, but I put my money on the EPAS nudging the wheel left all the time, for no reason at all.
And yes, my GT drives straight as an arrow.
Had it to the dealer several times and they "re-initilized" EPAS once. Alignment was checked several times and was dead on. Don't know and don't care what was really wrong with it anymore, but I put my money on the EPAS nudging the wheel left all the time, for no reason at all.
And yes, my GT drives straight as an arrow.
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