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Engine Dies

Old Nov 16, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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Engine Dies

Since it is cooler now, I am not running the air conditioner. The engine is dying sometimes when is cold when at a stop. Has anyone experienced this. Once it is warm is fine.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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hw many miles are on it? Maybe clean the TB? Hows your air cleaner look?
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
hw many miles are on it? Maybe clean the TB? Hows your air cleaner look?
it has 1345 miles on it
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 06:16 AM
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maybe a small vacuum leak? Take it to the dealership
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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Just somehting to try, unhook the battery for 5 minutes and turn on the lights to discharge any capacitors.

Hook the battery back up.

Start the car up and let it idle for 5 minutes, then turn on the AC and let it idle for another 5 minutes.

This may not work. What this would do in theory is let the car relearn the idle parameters. It has worked in the past for my wife's Mazda and when I replaced my upholstery in my '14, I did this when I hooked the battery back up.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Automatic 5.0
Just somehting to try, unhook the battery for 5 minutes and turn on the lights to discharge any capacitors.

Hook the battery back up.

Start the car up and let it idle for 5 minutes, then turn on the AC and let it idle for another 5 minutes.

This may not work. What this would do in theory is let the car relearn the idle parameters. It has worked in the past for my wife's Mazda and when I replaced my upholstery in my '14, I did this when I hooked the battery back up.
Ok, that sounds like something to think about. I turned on the A/C and drove it Sat and Sun and it never will do it. So, it looks like the problem is with the A/C off.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
maybe a small vacuum leak? Take it to the dealership
Once it is colder, I am hoping it will do it more. As it stands now, there is a very small window that it does it. Only within the first 5 minutes, after it warms up it never does it, A/C or no A/C.

Messing with this. I idled the car up at different speeds and at exactly 1300 RPM(close enough) there is a vibration in the motor. Less or more, there is no vibration. I did this test when it was cold, then there was nothing. I think I might have got a gremlin in my car.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 06:03 AM
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When you start the car do you allow it to idle down to 1k or under, the normal idle RPM, or do you try to drive it right after starting it up?
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon302
When you start the car do you allow it to idle down to 1k or under, the normal idle RPM, or do you try to drive it right after starting it up?
After having the M3 and it sounded like it was coming unglued(it was normal) I always wait until it calms down under 1k. I have been made fun of for doing it and they say "let's GO!". I tell them, soon, very soon....
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RubyTuesday2014
Once it is colder, I am hoping it will do it more. As it stands now, there is a very small window that it does it. Only within the first 5 minutes, after it warms up it never does it, A/C or no A/C.

Messing with this. I idled the car up at different speeds and at exactly 1300 RPM(close enough) there is a vibration in the motor. Less or more, there is no vibration. I did this test when it was cold, then there was nothing. I think I might have got a gremlin in my car.
Leave it at the dealership overnight so they can drive it at first start up to see what its doing. I've had to do that before with cars that only did something on cold start up but went away after getting warm.

At 1300 miles, that is not normal and they need to fix it.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rather B.Blown
Leave it at the dealership overnight so they can drive it at first start up to see what its doing. I've had to do that before with cars that only did something on cold start up but went away after getting warm.

At 1300 miles, that is not normal and they need to fix it.
Ok, i have driven for 3 days and i can't get it to do it again. The gremlin must have jumped over the the civic next to me. I will keep trying
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RubyTuesday2014
Ok, i have driven for 3 days and i can't get it to do it again. The gremlin must have jumped over the the civic next to me. I will keep trying
Hint: don't say bmw or m3 or IRS within earshot of your Mustang again! My stallions don't like bratwurst either!




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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by cdynaco
Hint: don't say bmw or m3 or IRS within earshot of your Mustang again! My stallions don't like bratwurst either!




The stang is sitting in the garage where the M3 used to sit next to my truck. She is getting used to it so far. She only kicked the garage door once. At least she doesn't have floppy headlights, or pull to the right or wear out the front tires, or her brakes groan, or drivers door lock itself open so I can't close the door and have to drive home shifting and taking a right and holding the door closed, like the M3 did.

She is doing just fine. The dent in the garage door behind her is at least fixable.
Attached Thumbnails Engine Dies-stable.jpg  

Last edited by RubyTuesday2014; Nov 20, 2013 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 11:59 AM
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Might have gotten some bad gasoline?
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 01:35 PM
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wait... you got a brand new car and the engine just dies??? what in the world? This is just unacceptable. Please take it to the dealership.

On a side note, I've heard a lot about HPFP issues on Bimmers. From videos, the engine either won't start or dies. Could this be?
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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sounds like a vacuum leak to me. the engine will run in open loop when its cold which means it doesnt use the o2 sensors because the o2 sensors dont work when they are cold. it uses the map, maf, iat ect... sensors instead which if you have a vacuum leak air is getting in that those sensors arent reading so its not running at the correct af ratio. once the o2 sensors warm up and it goes to closed loop it will use them and will see that the af ratio is off so it will correct it and it will run right then. im not very good at explaining stuff so sorry if you cant follow what im saying.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by southcarolina12
sounds like a vacuum leak to me. the engine will run in open loop when its cold which means it doesnt use the o2 sensors because the o2 sensors dont work when they are cold. it uses the map, maf, iat ect... sensors instead which if you have a vacuum leak air is getting in that those sensors arent reading so its not running at the correct af ratio. once the o2 sensors warm up and it goes to closed loop it will use them and will see that the af ratio is off so it will correct it and it will run right then. im not very good at explaining stuff so sorry if you cant follow what im saying.
So far, i cannot get it to do it again. It has the little bit of rought idle that I see many threads on, especially without A/C; which a lot of cars do. So we'll see. The car only has 1300 miles on it built in August so it should have all of the "upgrades" to it. But, I will have them check when I go in for my oil change. There is also a crunch sound when I take a left making a 180. It sounds like the strut tower. I think it might be what happened when they upgraded the suspension. I took it in and then it wouldnt crunch. Dealer parking lots fix a lot of problems
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RubyTuesday2014
Dealer parking lots fix a lot of problems
Always happens that way.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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Too often the give these "concerns" the Ultra-violet Treatment": let the car sit in the sun for a couple of days.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:29 AM
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That is a pretty color!
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