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Great news! I got the steering wheel connected and it is working!
Some lessons learned and things to do leftover:
- left buttons and right buttons seem to have a very close resistive value so both sides do the same thing. They will need to go on a different SWC channel instead of how the harness has them joined to the blue line OR add a resistor in front of the left buttons to change the value slightly
- cruise control buttons don't work just yet. I have a plan for those that involves the old button boards from an 05-09 connected directly to each button of the CC side
- phone buttons work, kinda. Seems like phone up and phone down have the same value as the other two (channel 3) so I will need to add another resistor there as well
- airbag connectors - I took apart the connectors from a newer clock spring, and was able to use the wiring from 05-09 by just getting them in the new connectors. No need to cut wires etc
- horn, works as well
- no need to hack the button boards like the posts above
Current wiring setup:
- blue line (channel 1) goes to SWC1
- orange, green and brown go to SWC2
- black, red and purple go to the grown wire on the clockspring (together with the black wire from horn wires)
- white wire from horn goes to the horn wire of clockspring
- yellow goes to backlight on clockspring
I need to order a few resistors and I should have all media buttons working soon! In the meantime... enjoy the picture below! This will go VERY well with the 2014 dashboard that I have in progress with a custom center cluster that uses the 05-09 AC controls, 05-09 gauges with a 2014 lens and indicators and 2014 headlight switches. THAT will be an even more fun of a project!
I don’t care about the buttons working really but I want to put a GT350 flat bottom steering wheel in my 2009 GT/CS and this confirmed it can be done!
I hope I can bring you back to this thread. I am 38 years old and an electrical engineer by trade. I recently designed a circuit for converting the LEDs in the S197 Steering wheel switches from the Ice Blue to RGB LED which are synced to the MyColor cluster.
Point is, I've actually completely dissected the S197 switches on both the left and the right. and not just the resistance values but how and why they are what they are.
I'm going to pick up the reins here as best I can. I scooped up a 2022 steering wheel for cheap on eBay.
I am completely unfamiliar with S550 vs S650 etc...
It looks identical to the one in the images here, so I'm hoping it mounts up. I Don't want to change the column (blinkers and wiper switches).
Planning to just focus all my efforts on the switches. Once I am able to get it completed. My plan is to create a custom harness so that it can be plug and play. (with some modifications to the actual boards)
Fundamentally, there are differences that need to be accounted for.
For example,
For the media buttons work by means of "skipping resistors" (it's parallel circuits but I won't explain it here)
On the S197
The Vol - HAS to have the least amount of resistance in the circuit... Vol + is the second lowest, and so on.
However, on the S550
The Vol+ is the lowest... which means, fundamentally, the board itself is going to need to be modified to support.
But I won't be able to determine this stuff until I have my steering wheel in my hands.
I also have some very good ideas around creating a new harness to support this. IF anyone already has a steering wheel in their possession and want to help me out. I would happily accept pictures like this of the front and back of each circuit board.
As HIGH DEFINITION AS POSSIBLE. I need to be able to read all of the resistors (for example, my images above are not high enough because you cannot read the value of the resistors in blue.)
Just to update anyone still around. I have a potential solve for all 4 button groups.
Yes, all 4 button groups will work.
Cruise Control
Media/Audio Keys
Bluetooth Keys
Information (arrow) Keys
They will all work as intended. All 4 sets will require soldering.
Plan would be to make a custom harness that would replace the harness that comes with S550 or the S197.
I have a 2022 heated steering wheel inbound on 9/23. I'll have more information to confirm.
Here is a Little Heads Up, This Old Topic Has Been Viewed As Per Above Number. Pretty Substantial I Would Say! The Vast Vast Majority of People Won't Post But Gleen Info. By Marking The Current View on Your Latest Post You Can Keep Tabs if You Are Curious if Your Content is Being Viewed. I Do This On My Faux Gas Cap Topic To Gauge Interest. Anyhoo at The Very Least You Can Gauge From This Post As You Add or View!
So. It's been a few days and what a whirlwind it has been.
I bought a 2022 steering wheel that has heated steering wheel option. (frankly, it's the only reason I'm involved in this project.)
Well, it was a base one (no nav button and no adaptive cruise control) manual (no paddle shifters).
When it arrived, womp womp, it was not a heated steering wheel. The seller thought the steering wheel switch on the center console FCIM was for heated steering wheel instead of the steering feel or whatever it's called. I had to dig through the 2022 use manual to uncover that this was not the case. Anyway. Back to the seller the steering wheel went.
I decided, that for my project I would order a premium steering wheel (with Nav, with Adaptive CC). Why? well mainly because I simply want the extra switches. My plan is also to use the paddle shifters for turning on and off the heated steering wheel since my car is manual. That project is for later, however.
When you have lemons, you make lemonade. Before returning the steering wheel, I disassembled all of the switches and took 100s of pictures and used my multimeter like nobody's business.
Attached is one example of the diagrams that I was able to decompile. While I would love to get to the point of a fully working prototype before sharing my information, I think it's only fair to share this at this point thus far. All of these diagrams are done in GIMP (poor mans photoshop) with layering. So, I can fully isolate each button pad and LED as necessary.
Steering Wheel Right Upper - Information
I have these for just about every switch in the S197 and all 4 of the steering wheel switches in the S550.
I have one more test to do before I put my 4 solutions into practice, but I need to get my hands on a spare S197 left switch and/or right switch to test a hypothesis. I don't want to sacrifice my originals in case something goes awry. If anyone here has a spare S197 Steering Wheel Left and/or Right switch and they would like to donate it to the cause, let me know.
Here is a Little Heads Up, This Old Topic Has Been Viewed As Per Above Number. Pretty Substantial I Would Say! The Vast Vast Majority of People Won't Post But Gleen Info. By Marking The Current View on Your Latest Post You Can Keep Tabs if You Are Curious if Your Content is Being Viewed. I Do This On My Faux Gas Cap Topic To Gauge Interest. Anyhoo at The Very Least You Can Gauge From This Post As You Add or View!
Its been a minute since I played around with this. That's alot of work, I did the same when I fist started. I check the resistors on the s197 buttons and traced the lines on the s550 and tried to change the resistors to match the s197 with no luck, mainly with the cruise control.
As of right now my setup is a explorer st steering wheel and a saync 3 system 😀 it works kinda lol
Its been a minute since I played around with this. That's alot of work, I did the same when I fist started. I check the resistors on the s197 buttons and traced the lines on the s550 and tried to change the resistors to match the s197 with no luck, mainly with the cruise control.
As of right now my setup is a explorer st steering wheel and a saync 3 system 😀 it works kinda lol
Fantastic to see you still around these parts.
Very nice! Yes! I remember seeing you with the custom FCIM fascia. I actually have all of the switch circuit boards completely routed along with the radio in the center console (non-nav one).
I was able to do the non-nav/adaptive CC button switches before returning it and getting a premium one with all of the buttons so, I also have the differences mapped between those as well.
The only thing I am struggling right now is with opening the paddle shifter to get to the boards inside those.
That being said. I have sourced all of the connectors for the harness mouser and placed my order on Friday. Plan is to make my own harness. I'm not sure if I want to use the original s197 clockspring (and add a few wires by opening it up) or use the s550 clockspring since it has more wires built in.
Any chance you can tell me a bit more about your experience install the s550 shifter/clockspring assembly?
Very nice! Yes! I remember seeing you with the custom FCIM fascia. I actually have all of the switch circuit boards completely routed along with the radio in the center console (non-nav one).
I was able to do the non-nav/adaptive CC button switches before returning it and getting a premium one with all of the buttons so, I also have the differences mapped between those as well.
The only thing I am struggling right now is with opening the paddle shifter to get to the boards inside those.
That being said. I have sourced all of the connectors for the harness mouser and placed my order on Friday. Plan is to make my own harness. I'm not sure if I want to use the original s197 clockspring (and add a few wires by opening it up) or use the s550 clockspring since it has more wires built in.
Any chance you can tell me a bit more about your experience install the s550 shifter/clockspring assembly?
Nice!!
If I remember correctly, I believe the s550 clock spring/stock has less wires because it uses a sccm, uses can messages from the buttons/stock switches. the only thing I could wire up would the air bag and high switch for the wipers everything else would go through the sccm. I do like the s550 stock with the two separate switches for turn and wipers though. I was also looking a using an older style s197 stock/clock spring since it has more wires and looks like the s550 ones, you could try that.
Nice!!
If I remember correctly, I believe the s550 clock spring/stock has less wires because it uses a sccm, uses can messages from the buttons/stock switches. the only thing I could wire up would the air bag and high switch for the wipers everything else would go through the sccm. I do like the s550 stock with the two separate switches for turn and wipers though. I was also looking a using an older style s197 stock/clock spring since it has more wires and looks like the s550 ones, you could try that.
S197 Clockspring Usage:
Very important question for you. Does the S550 wheel work with the 13/14 clockspring?
When I say work, does it fit and bolt up to the car so that turning can be done? (forget whether the switches work or not). I'm just trying to understand if there is any sort of mechanical interference or if the issues are purely electrical.
S550 Clockspring Usage:
I had read in an earlier part of the thread that you had actually mounted and connected the S550 clockspring. However, there was mechanical interference with the dashboard. Was that interference with the dashboard related to the actual dashboard or did I read something about the plastic shield.
If you recall at all, any help would be great. I'm currently in the process of reverse engineering the wiper signal.
S197 Clockspring Usage:
Very important question for you. Does the S550 wheel work with the 13/14 clockspring?
When I say work, does it fit and bolt up to the car so that turning can be done? (forget whether the switches work or not). I'm just trying to understand if there is any sort of mechanical interference or if the issues are purely electrical.
S550 Clockspring Usage:
I had read in an earlier part of the thread that you had actually mounted and connected the S550 clockspring. However, there was mechanical interference with the dashboard. Was that interference with the dashboard related to the actual dashboard or did I read something about the plastic shield.
If you recall at all, any help would be great. I'm currently in the process of reverse engineering the wiper signal.
S550 Will work, bolts up like normal. if you look at the first post, I have the s197 clock spring behind the wheel.
for the s550 clock spring/stock, it bolts up no problem. you just can't use the steering column trims. other than that, fits perfectly fine.
S550 Will work, bolts up like normal. if you look at the first post, I have the s197 clock spring behind the wheel.
for the s550 clock spring/stock, it bolts up no problem. you just can't use the steering column trims. other than that, fits perfectly fine.
I was thinking that there were 3 options.
1. Use the s197 clockspring and the s550 wheel. (Issue: not enough wires in the clockspring for every single function if you to use paddle shifters or heated steering wheel) Solve: Add additional ribbon to the clockspring.
2. Use the s550 clockspring assembly and the s550 wheel. (Issue: Cannot use the plastic shroud due to space without modification. Bigger issue, cannot use the wiper and indicators as they go through the SCCM.)
Solve: if possible, reconfigure the output of the flashers and bypass the SCCM. Roadblock, fundamental way the wipers and high beams work is slightly different than the s197. Needs to be investigated. Very likely that I may design a new board for this allowing a much easier bypass.
3. Use the s550 clockspring with the s197 indicators. (Issue: unless I am mistaken because I haven't tested it. The clip that makes the blinkers automatically turn off when you turn the steering wheel is of a different size than the s550. So when you turn the steering wheel, it won't automatically turn off your signal.) Solve: none yet. I'm not even sure that it can bolt up with the s197 multifunction switch still in the car. Need confirmation if it's all s197 or all s500.
Right now, I'm heavily learning towards #1, but I am not at all against number 2. I see number 2 as a challenge.
The main issue with number two is in how the high beams work. In the s197, the high beams are activated by pushing out on the handle and it locks into the On position. To disengage it, you pull the handle back. The s550 handle is a soft handle that is pushed out and then returns to the resting position and the SCCM "remembers" that it is on. Basically, without using some sort of transistor, you won't be able to keep the high beams on even if you figure out rerouting the pins. I have to think about this one.
On the bright side, my resistor set came in. So, hopefully Friday, I can make my modifications. I thought it would be cool to have the premium switches. But realized, I have little to no utility for the extra buttons, like gap up/down, the pony, nav buttons. All things the s550 can use the SCCM to translate. I might use them to turn on and off my heated seats, not sure to be honest. We'll see.
Just a quick update. At this point, I have a theoretical, circuit designed solve for ALL 4 switches, as well as, both handles for the high beams/signals, and wipers/spray
All of it is documented in my google doc. My plans is to make two harnesses,
One harness will be for an S197 clockspring. the clockspring will be modified to have an additional ribbon cable with 12 additional lines. 4 for the heated steering wheel 3 for the paddle switches and 5 leftover for future projects.
Another harness will be for using the S550 clockspring, which won't require additional ribbon cable. My plan is to open the housing and remove the SCCM. Then I will modify the handles in the same way I will for the switches. I will bypass the SCCM and go straight to the dash harness with the functions. In the place of the SCCM inside the housing, I will add a module for converting a momentary contact switch to a solid state switch, which should allow the highbeam handle to operate as expected.
I find it so strange that ford would opt to take a single handle and turn to into two. Very strange.
Today was an interesting day. I was able to swap the resistors as per my plans. Something I learned earlier but I think it's important to mention here.
On the S197, the circuits are very very simple, literally connectors,pads, and resistors. On the s550, they added a diode and a smoothing capacitor to prevent button bounce. It's not a huge deal, but it makes it so you can't measure the resistance AT the connector and must get inside the switch. Not a big deal and I don't need to a solve for it at this point. Just making you folks aware.
Cruise Control Switch:
I will keep it very brief. I was able to send the correct resistive values out of the switch/buttons withOUT cutting any traces on the board. It does require a soldering iron, but, for this switch at least, I will be able to make the modification completely reversible.
Once all of the switches are able to be fully tested within the car, I will post the solutions here. If you want to check them out yourself, go back a few posts and check the Google doc I posted.
After my second resistor set comes in, I will probably start working on the Audio / Info buttons since they are much more straight forward to test.
This will go VERY well with the 2014 dashboard that I have in progress with a custom center cluster that uses the 05-09 AC controls, 05-09 gauges with a 2014 lens and indicators and 2014 headlight switches. THAT will be an even more fun of a project!
