2014DIB

A few months ago I installed a Kenwood DNN991HD with the Maestro RR and Dash Kit. I also replaced both the front and rear deck speakers with the Pioneer TSD6802R (yes – the rear was a PITA – and with the factory amp it was not a difference maker).

Now thinking of taking the next step (i.e. the audio mod disease) – and could use some suggestions/guidance from all you audio experts! Have read thru a number of threads (thanks to ColSaulTigh, laserred38 and many others!) – although still need some assistance.

My thoughts so far are:

1. Replace the factory door mid-bass with JL Audio ZR800-CW for better mid-bass. Others have advised that this will fit, factory covers will be flush, and they do not require porting/cutting out door panel behind the speaker. Need to figure out how cross them at 80-300, or 100-300 Hz.
2. Potentially purchase JL Audio Stealthbox SB-F-MUCUPE2/13W3v3 to have a true subwoofer. Assume this would complement the ZR800’s.
3. Install aftermarket Amp(s) to drive front and rear Pioneers, JL mid-bass door speakers and Stealthbox. Would prefer to stay with one amp if possible.

Single amp possible? Suggestions? Or, would I really need to go with two amps?

There have been a lot of good reviews on the Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel AMP. Good power and THD specs. But, not enough channels to drive 6 speakers and a sub. Right?

Also – the Kenwood DNN991 has front/rear L/R and sub pre-outs (there are two sub pre-outs but I believe both are mono). How would I connect it to the amp to drive the front/rear Pioneers, along with the JL mid-bass which all need to be stereo. Can I split the front pre-out from two channels to four with an RCA Y connector? Would that cause any sound quality issues?

In terms of audio quality – I am older so do not want a huge amount of thumping bass that rattles the trunk/doors/teeth/other cars at the light – just an overall nice clean wide range sound to take advantage of the capabilities of the DNN991HD.

Finally, anyone that has previously run new speaker wire thru the door Molex connectors – appreciate any tips. Would like to avoid drilling thru the car body if possible. Found the threads below:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...Stereo-Install

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...ID=78731&TPN=1

awoychosky123

Hey m8 its going to be difficult to run the wires I have 5 extra wires on each door I added and it was a pain. But it can be done use long zip ties and start from the door and work your way in. When you attempt to go into the connector do one wire at a time and go through the very top. PM if you need anymore help.

laserred38

Hey I'm here! My plans have changed this year. The introduction of the Audsion bit8.9 has made me realize you don't need a ton of power or huge amp for good sound. I will be using that to power the front stage active, with an Audison bit1.1 for whatever sub(s) I use.

For your application, the Alpine V9 would be fine. Don't amp the rear speakers. Amp the front doors and JL ZRs, then use the sub channel for the Stealthbox. Unless you're going to tinker on the crossovers and time alignment, a processor is probably overkill for you. I think you would benefit a LOT from adding a processor, but most people are intimidated by them or don't think they'll get much out of it. It's just like a tuner for your engine, but for your audio system.

DeeJayTJ

Molex connector..

Thanks to user - FAST_351 for the amazing wright up

here you go, best solution in my opinion. (worked for me for sure!)

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...8/#post6063796

05PRMTX

I'm glad you posted this. I am going to be doing all this fairly soon and this will be a big help.