McLovin

So my ultimate goal is to retrofit the NAV unit into my car and be able to run aftermarket sound equipment.

Since this is something I can spread out over time, I'd like to see what I need, outside of the NAV unit itself, and what I could use now.

I already have JL Audio TR570-xi's front and rear and Shelby Kicker 8" Door Subs. I would ultimately like to replace the Shelby's with JL ZR800-CW's. I figured to run all the speakers and ZR's I should run an XD600/6v2.

I want to run a single 10W3v2-4 in a zenclosure box. I figured running a JX500/1D for that sub would suffice. I am trying to maintain some trunk space, so running multiple subs really isn't an option.

With that being said, I know laserred recommended AOEM-FRD24 from PAC, but that only does 4 channels. How would I be able to expand it so I could accommodate all 7 channels?

For the time being, could/should I use the AOEM-FRD24 in order to hook up the amp for the sub so I can use it currently or should I use something smaller?

laserred38

That sounds like a good setup, with the ZR mids, minus those TR speakers. You really should invest in some better fronts, and not JL. JL makes great amps, subs and the ZR 8s, but other than that their speaker lines are lacking.

Now with that PAC module, you can use one of those outputs into a processor. Take your pick of JBL MS-8, Audison bit one, Rockford 3.Sixty or Zapco 6-8. There are a lot of processors out there.

Really, you have a great start and game plan, just swap out the front speakers for a good set of 5.25" components (Hertz, Audison, Focal, Hybrid Audio, Illusion Audio, Dynaudio etc). Make a 5x7 plate for the tweeters and mids and mount in the stock location. You will be much happier, especially paired with the JL ZRs. This is almost my exact setup, except that I'm going with Focal Flax or K2P 5.25" comps, depending on pricing. The Flax sound great, but if I can get the K2Ps for not much more, I will go that route. I'm also removing the rears, but most don't.

That said, you could run the rear speakers off the stock amp, and just use 5/6ch for the front speakers/mids/sub....

McLovin

Holy cow Focal's are pricey! Actually just about everything you listed is pricey! LOL

I've liked JL stuff since I was in high school and found a few places to by them that while technically wouldn't be under warranty from JL, at least they are almost half of what they list for retail. I'm most likely going to have to install this stuff by myself and stereo shops around here are slim to none. To make it osund better than stock do I REALLY have to buy that high end of stuff?

I didn't think I could run the rear deck speakers off the stock amp with all the other stuff in place, so if that's case, I could absolutely run just the fronts off of a 4 channel amp.

So for the time being can I just get that PAC audio deal and run the amp/sub in the trunk?

laserred38

I'll have to look into that PAC module some more. If it completely interrupts the signal going to the rear speakers, then you won't be able to run them off the factory amp (which IIRC is built into the factory head unit). I'll have a to do a bit more research and let you know. I know SN95s like the back of my hand, but the new ones I personally haven't worked on. Just going off what I've read and seen.

If you're limited to JL, the only speakers I'd run are the C5s. The T series are pretty much their lowest line. I'd even run the Alpine a Type-Rs or Type-X over the JL speakers. I just hate their tweeters. I also won't be paying retail for anything so it's a bit different for me lol. Dealer cost is pretty much 50% off so that makes a big difference. Still you can get the Type-Rs or some of those other ones I listed for like 30% off from Amazon, Sonic Eletronix, and/or Woofers Etc but you won't have a warranty....

McLovin

It's not that I am limited to JL's it's just a brand I am familiar with and I don't want to spend $4-500 bucks for one pair of speakers lol.

Is there something else you would recommend for the front speakers that will work with the stock deck for the time being?

Also did you see my other thread about the Shelby's and potentially bridging the stock amp?

https://themustangsource.com/f803/qu...pgrade-530696/

Mr. V

I used to manage an audio/video store that carried jl amongst some higher and lower end equipment. I agree wirh laser. Jl is very average In terms of speakers. This may be difficult, but I'd recommend trying to find a store that carries down speakers you like and demoing them using your own music. Everyone's ears are a little different. I can share what I like but it may not be in line with your taste.

laserred38

Pioneers: Pioneer TS-D1320C 5.25-Inch Rev-Series 180-Watt Speaker Package by Pioneer
Alpines: Alpine SPR-50C 5.25" Car Audio Component System (Pair) by Alpine
Morels: Morel Maximo 5.25-Inch Component Speaker System by Morel
Rainbow: SLX 230 - Rainbow SLX 5.25" 2-Way Component System by Rainbow
Getting more expensive...

Focal: PS-130 - Focal Performance 5.25" 2-Way Component Speaker System PS130 by Focal
Hertz: Hertz HSK 165 6.5" 2-way Hi-Energy Component Speaker System HSK165 by Hertz

You pretty much can't go wrong with any of these. And yes, if you combine both sets of positive and negative speaker wires going to shows Shelby/Kicker 8s, you *should* essentially have a 2ohm resistance at the amp, which is what the factory woofers were (Dual-4ohm).

laserred38

Whoops, I posted a link to 6.5" comps for the Hertz. Those come in 5.25" though. I recommend the 5.25s because a) they're much easier for an amateur to make a 5x7 plate for, to mount the tweeters and mids in the stock location, and b) the 8s on the Premium cars will make up for the lower range on the mids. I feel the 5.25 is a sweet spot to run as a mid range in a 3-way (mid bass, mid range, tweeter) front stage.

McLovin

Awesome, thank you for the links! What could I do for now that would improve the fronts with the stock amp? The pioneers look like they'd be the best bet, would you agree?

McLovin

How about instead of a 5 channel amp, I run the monoblock amp for now, then run a 4 channel amp later. The 4 channel amps seem to have a Preamp out that I could use to run the monoblock later and I should be able to run the monoblock amp with a level control **** right?

laserred38

You could do that yes, but I prefer to install one amp. It's just easier for space consumption, tuning and less materials used. I'm all about one amp installs...

McLovin

I am on board with that as well, but how do I get a a 5th channel from the OEM Deck to run the sub output if the PAC Interface only provides for 4 pre outs?

McLovin

Didn't mean to skip over your advice so I apologize. FInding a good audio place where I live is going to be nigh impossible. Closest town I could go to would be Las Vegas. Any shops you'd recommend I go to up there?


My primary type of music is Rock. Metallica, Zepplin, AC/DC, Chevelle, etc. I do occasionally listen to some R&B and Rap, but I'd say 75% of the time it is going to be rock.

Would the stuff laser recommended also be what you'd recommend for that type of music?

I also realized I shot myself in the foot by saying $400 for a pair of speakers is a bit high considering I'd like to do ZR800's, so I guess I'm not opposed to Hertz or Forcal, or any of the other brands.

Not going to lie, I thought I knew enough about th is stuff but I'm obviously just knowledgeable to be dangerous lol.

I appreciate your guys' input!

laserred38

You could do it one of two ways - an RCA splitter (cheap and easy) or add a processor in the mix (another thing to buy, more complicated, but gives you complete control over your system). I'm going to do the Audison bit one or bit ten D, depending on pricing when I'm ready. I have access to a used bit one for $200, but it might have internal damage. If so, then I'll buy a new bit ten D because I'll only need 5 ch - no point in spending the extra money for the bit one's 8ch if I'm not going to use them.