So i'm trying to add some quality sound in the car and would like to get some info. For starters i've already installed a set of Infinity Kappas 682.9cf http://www.crutchfield.com/s_1086829...Brand|Infinity in the front doors. Now yes they sound ok until you turn them up and the radio starts making them sound like poo. Also i have the Nav package. Now i've spoken with a local audio shop and he tells me i would need to install both the JL audio clean sweep and the CL-SSI. Is this true or is just trying to make some money. I would like my music to sound good but i'm wondering if this is overkill

 

You probably need what I'm trying to do, which is install an external amp.

I too have the Nav, which means I won't be changing my HU. I already have a nice 4ch and Mono amp, but I need to find the best way to hook them up.

 

Yep that is what i want to do but if i could do this myself without someone duping me at some shop. I have pretty good knowledge of installing amps and such but this is my first Mustang so i need it done correctly. If anyone has installed it...there is the factory amp in the trunk and i'm wondering if folks have been tapping off the speaker wires running to it (when installing a processor).

 

Unless you have a Shaker 1000 (which you cannot get with the Navigation Package) then you don't have an AMP in the trunk.

 

Is this an amp? Its in the right rear of the trunk.

 

Consider the MTX re-Q5. Cheaper than the clean sweep but comparable in performance. They can be had online for around $80 new and make it easy to add amps to your factory radio.

 

Instead of a JL clean sweep, you can add an EQ like the Kenwood 5-band and it will give you great sound. The aftermarket speakers/woofers and amps will connect to the EQ in order to keep the factory unit. Just another way to add sound to your system.

 

That's a good idea. An external EQ. Can that take line in?

 

How many sets of outputs are coming from the factory HU? 4 or 6? Also, are they all fun range?

 

Thats a good point. Thanks for the info and yeah i wonder is it a high or low input that is coming from the HU. Hey does anyone know is that an amp in the trunk?

 

I used a JBL MS-8 http://www.crutchfield.com/s_109MS8/...earch=JBL+ms-8 processor for my install. Not the cheapest route but it has many benefits.

If your car has the shaker 500, the amps are on the drivers side under the dash. Check out this online service manual http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=499 for more info. I'm not sure what that is you posted a pic of. My car has the shaker 1000 and has an amp for the subs in that location but it doesn't look like that. Maybe an active anti rust system?

I would at least use the clean sweep. As the outputs from the head unit are not flat and need to be summed to get a full signal for your aftermarket equipment.

Edit: you can get away without using the cl-ssi if you are just driving your components with an aftermarket amp. But if you want to send more bass to them then the factory speakers got or add a sub or want to replace the 8" speakers in the doors and drive them with a separate amp you will need the cl-ssi to get a full signal. But you will need at least the clean sweep to clean up the factory equalization.

 

Thanks for the info. Question on your installation. Where did you install your processor and where did you splice into the factory speaker wires? I was thinking it would be easiest to have the processor upfront some where so I have a short run of line-ins to it, then run some rca's to the trunk for the external amps, then run speaker wire from the amps to their prospective speakers. Did you do that or did you also put the processor in the trunk?

Thanks, I see the pinouts for the navigation unit. I'm still a little confused at then number of speaker outputs? I want to say there are 4, but it looks like there may actually be 8 with the door subs getting 2 sets each. That may be the case since the door subs are dvc. I'm assuming I'd only need to splice into the 4 non sub wire sets to feed the clean sweep processor.

 

Good info. Yeah i'm not sure what that is but its in the same place as the 1000 amp would be and i cannot find it in the manual. I'm looking to get both items from JL audio but i want to do this myself and not pay someone at a shop to do it...and waiting to see if someone else has done it.

 

Wait just found it under section 415-00-2 it is a amplifier for which speakers i'm not sure. Now if your splicing into the speaker wires (when installing something like the ssi)should you do it before or after the amp?

 

Right now I've got It in the trunk on top of the shaker1000 sub box. But when I get more energy I'll hide it somewhere (maybe in the drivers side quarter pnl). Originally I used the rear speaker wires to get my signal using these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-72-5600.html so no wire cutting. But since the sync voice only comes out the front speakers you loose it. I ended up splicing into the front channels at the back of the head unit and running the wires back to the ms-8. I also tapped into the harness at the factory sub amp to get the sub signal so my processor could sum the signals since I wanted the ms-8 to control the factory subs and also to get the remote turn on signal for the ms-8. I'm using an active 3way system in the doors so I had to run 3 speaker wires from my 6 ch amp behind the factory subamp in the right rear quarter pnl. to each door. That was a pain getting all those wires through the connector at the doors but I didn't want to splice into the factory wires.

Yeah the door subs have dual voice coils so there are actually 2 amp channels driving each one. And they are in mono.

 

I'm not sure, but if the JL equipment can take speaker lvl inputs you can tap in after the amp. If not tap in before the amp.

 

Audio Control Lc6i or Lc2i would work just fine for adding aftermarket amps to the stock HU. Lc2 $100. Problem is you wont have front to rear fade. If you want fade, use the Lc6, much better control for $150 or so . . .

 

Does the Lc6 sum the signals coming from the HU?

 

The Lc6 will give you three pre-outs. Front, rear and a dedicated sub output. It's what i plan on using when I get around to finishing our half-bath so I can install some new car audio!

 

I've read that my HU has some built in EQ that needs to be processed out in order to get full range to my amps. I need a device that does that. I'm not sure the Lc6 does.