Mustang 3.5L Ecoboost engine swap
Originally Posted by Ecostang
I agree, it's doesn't look finished. The part I will make should look like a factory piece. We have a designer and a 3D printer at work to make the part, should be simple. If I can't pull it off for some reason I may use that grille you sent the pic of.
If it turns out nice maybe I should make a couple extras in case other people need them.
If it turns out nice maybe I should make a couple extras in case other people need them.
I spent half the day setting up the welder and getting power to it, but I finally got it going. I did some test welds and it certainly different than welding steel. I'm definitely not the best welder but I got it done, it's strong and doesn't leak. The welds are a little ugly but that's what they make grinders for! After everything is welded I'll go back and grind all welds and paint the turbo piping black.
I cut these fittings from a 180 degree cast turbo pipe, I needed very particular angles to make it fit. The angles for the left intercooler and the right are completely different. This is what's made it so complicated to figure out.
The insulation on my intercooler used to look nice before I took it in and out of the car 100x!
I cut these fittings from a 180 degree cast turbo pipe, I needed very particular angles to make it fit. The angles for the left intercooler and the right are completely different. This is what's made it so complicated to figure out.
The insulation on my intercooler used to look nice before I took it in and out of the car 100x!
The factory turbos are 2" pipe and the intercoolers I'm installing are 2.5". I used a 2" to 2.5" reducer, a 2" aluminum 90, and a 2" 15 degree to connect everything. I'm planing to have the 2" aluminum pipe beaded on each end.
Last edited by Ecostang; Dec 24, 2015 at 06:07 PM.
You may make me order that GT500 fascia a lot sooner than I wanted to LOL. When my car was in the body shop, I did the hood because the front end swap required so many additional parts, and none of the grilles I liked were a straight swap. I didn't want any exposed CF on this build, and paying for those beautiful expensive Seibon grilles, only to paint them, seemed a complete waste of money.
Last edited by Ecostang; Dec 24, 2015 at 06:27 PM.
I got an x-brace and a rear driveshaft loop for Christmas, I installed the x-brace today. It's got a place to put a steeda placard on it but I'll be leaving that off. I'll make my own and just paint it black, less douchey.
I'll get the carpet for the seat delete at some point soon.
I'll get the carpet for the seat delete at some point soon.
This is what the turbo pipes look like out of the car. I'll take all this to my office tomorrow where we have a bench grinders. I'll knock all the welds down and check for leaks. Once I'm done I'll paint all this piping flat black and put it back in the car for the last time.
This is what it looks like I'm the car. I have one last piece of pipe to attach on the left side. I may take the pipe to a local muffler shop to have it bent, I need a 100 degree turn to make it work or a 90 and a 10 degree bend.
I got the brace for the BMR rear driveshaft loop installed, I have to disconnect the driveshaft to put on the loop. Has anyone installed one of these on a V6? With the car on jack stands and the suspension all the way extended the driveshaft pushes pretty hard on the bracket. I don't expect to be in this position while driving but if it ever did it seems like the driveshaft would be damaged from it.
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Yea I see what your saying. Not alot of room for travel of the shaft. Thats not good. Seems like the cross member part of the bracket should be on a 45 degree slope to allow for travel.
Actually that pic is after I jacked up the rear end to get the shaft off the bracket. I'm going to email BMR and see what they say.



