Back again and very tempted to lower my car, i have the funds but how hard is it to install lowering springs and the adjustable panhard bar?
Or how much would a shop charge to install?
I wanna do this but the unstallation price scares me.

 

It is still the same on the 2013
http://www.motorz.tv/blog/2610/lowering-a-mustang/

 

Gotcha! Makes sense. Thanks for the input.

 

Lowering the car does more than eliminate the wheel gap. It changes the center of gravity on the car, and makes it handle better. As with everything else regarding modding a car, you can do it half-assed, or you can do it right.

"Half-assed" means just changing the springs. "Doing it right" means also changing struts/shocks and strut mounts. Cost=$150-200

In point of fact, changing JUST the springs will probably result in worse ride quality because the OEM shock package is just barely enough to do the job to begin with. Cost=$450

To keep the rear end centered under the car, you might need an adjustable panhard bar (whether you need one or not depends on a) how much you lowered the rear, and b) the car itself. I lowered mine 1-1/2 inches and needed an adjustable bar. Cost=$165

Since you're under the car, you may as well replace the panhard bar brace too. The OEM is stamped steel, and the aftermarket replacements add a lot of strength to the assembly. Cost=$120

Next, you want to consider sway bars. Mustangs has built-in understeer to make the car more predictable for "the masses", but we're not "the masses" they were thinking about. An adjustable sway bar kit can tune the car to corner the way it should (and more importantly to your driving style). Cost=$460.

Some folks (like you?) simply don't see the value in lowering the car. That's okay. For most of the folks on this forum, though, it's a tangible performance upgrade to an otherwise decent car. For me, it ain't always just about going fast in a straight line.

Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

 

The rear end is a piece of cake. You don't even have to take the tires off do replace the springs, shocks, and panhard bar.

The front requires more tools (strut spring compressor), and while you have the strut/spring apart, you may as well put in the GT500 upper strut mounts (an additional $125). You should also make sure your floor jack can be removed from under the car AFTER it's been lowered. I had to go out and buy a low-profile floor jack at AutoZone.

There are a lot of how-to's on the web, so you can find instructions easily.

Shops charge by the hour. Rear springs and panhard bar will take about 2-3 hours. Front will take at least 4. Do the math. You may be able to find ASE-recommended R&R times on the net.

 

Well I would lower it 1.5 inches all around MAX. I've talked to several people at AM and Steeda and they say that that's the max to lower it without changing the low mileage shocks and struts that I have but it is recommended to get an adjustable panhard bar. I already have the performance pkg on my v6 so I don't need a sway bar and the other stuff listed as it is already upgraded.

Yeahh I will see what I can do regarding the install. I mainly want it because of the nosedive when braking and the lower center of gravity. The enhanced looks are just a plus.

How fast do I wanna go? Not fast and that's why I have a v6. Speed is not a priority to me, not a big one at least. I already do 0-60 in 5 seconds flat anyway lol that's plenty fast for me.

 

Just changing the springs aren't going to fix the nose-dive problem. Several things need to be done to fix that, including changing the weight distribution (doesn't involve suspension work), better shocks (front and back), and a brake bias change if you want to solve the nose dive issue. If you're talking about nose dive when you're turning, the correct term fopr that is understeer, and that's fixed with sway bar changes.

I have a V6 as well, and I'm all in as far as handling goes. As I can afford it, I'm putting a better version of everything under the car. I've already swapped out the springs, shocks, and panhard bar. I just got my sway bars yesterday, and I'll be installing them this weekend. The next thing will probably be front control arms, and/or a tubular K-member.

After that comes a drive shaft, and probably adjustable rear control arms.

 

No. Nose dive as in nose dive when you brake...
I already have a ton of that upgraded because of the performance pkg.
All i need are lowering springs and a panhard bar. Im only lowering it 1.25 all around. Stock shocks and struts can handle that.

 

Unless you go up with spring rates the nose dive will still be there.
David Young just change the Shocks and Struts on his 2011 V6 and got rid of most of his nose dive still running the Stock Springs. I changed Struts, Shocks and Springs on my 2010 and had very little on mine.
I am still on the fence on what if any suspension changes I will do until Components start wearing out. I have pulled almost 1.2 G's with the stock suspension and it does have some under-steer, but in all truth it is pretty balanced for stock.

 

I don't really care, I just wanna be able to drive it normally and not have a slammed car that rides like a shopping cart. I don't race or auto cross. I drive in the city.

 

I have the Eibach Pro Kit springs and they are specifically designed to work with your stock shocks and struts. Can you get their pro springs and dampers? Yes, but they aren't absolutely required. I did not have the PP so these springs made a significant reduction in squat and dive during launches and braking. I am very pleased with these springs. If you are looking for a mild drop (0.8f/1.2r) then these might work for you. I actually observed 3/4" up front and right about 1" in the rear. I didn't need a panhard bar at first, but after a couple months I noticed that I was 1/4" off. I'm pretty picky so I bought a J&M steel, adjustable panhard to square things up. I also got the Shelby front sway bar and BMR rear end links. So I'm guessing my car handles similarly to a PP optioned car. I am extremely pleased how it all turned out.

 

It took me 4 hours (working alone) to install both the front and rear Eibach adjustable sway bars.

I like it.

 

I am in the same boat, yet my question is how low can I take the car with out needing to get an adjustable pan hard bar?

 

I was 1/8th of an inch off when I lowered the rear 1.2 inches, hardly noticeable IMO.

 

0.5-1.5 inches - maybe. It depends on your wheels/tires more than anything else. If you put 9.5-10-inch rims in the back, you'll probably notice it more. Mine was off by 1/2 inch, and I only went down 1.5 inches in the back.

More than 1.5 - probably. It should start to become real noticeable at that point that the rear end isn't centered under the car, even with OEM wheels.

2.0+ - definitely. No question.

-----------

When I bought my springs/shocks, I change the panhard bar simply because it was convenient to do since I was already under the car. What sucks is that I got the J&M aluminum bar, and if I want to adjust it, I have to take one end out of the car because I can't get at the adjusting nuts without doing that. One of these days when I'm not buying other stuff for the car, I'm gonna change that bar with something more convenient.

 

I only want at most a 1" drop all around as well as the 9.5" wheels and if you end up selling that bar I would be interested in buying it if you.

 

Take my advice and avoid using it (and those like it). It is NOT your best option. J&M makes a steel panhard bar that is a better design. Their aluminum one sucks as far as post-installation adjustment is concerned.

 

Well hopefully I don't need an adjustable one. My goal is to NOT have to get one. I don't mind the height mine is at buy a nice .5"-1" drop wouldn't be bad either in addition to better handling.

 

Just in case you are wanting to see an example....here is my 13 Performance Package with Steeda Ultra lite springs. 1 inch drop in front 1.5 rear

 

Looks great! I have the springs and cant wait to install them!
Did you use a panhard bar?