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Old 8/28/16, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Be selective when picking out the blower kit also. A bigger blower can always be toned down with pulley sizes. The bigger cc blower will allow more scfm with less boost pressure. So you can actually add more hp with less boost. My cobra was at 21psi which could have done the same power at 15 psi with a bigger blower. Lower psi and more scfm will help with longevity. Lots of people producing big power with these cars and have never cracked a valve cover off. Wouldn't worry about oil pump gears honestly. If you turbo on the other hand, good luck with any and everything.
Great point about the bigger blower.
Makes sense.
Old 8/28/16, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Be selective when picking out the blower kit also. A bigger blower can always be toned down with pulley sizes. The bigger cc blower will allow more scfm with less boost pressure. So you can actually add more hp with less boost. My cobra was at 21psi which could have done the same power at 15 psi with a bigger blower. Lower psi and more scfm will help with longevity. Lots of people producing big power with these cars and have never cracked a valve cover off. Wouldn't worry about oil pump gears honestly. If you turbo on the other hand, good luck with any and everything.
I currently have a 2.3, but you're right. Next time I'm going with at least a 2.9L blower.
Old 8/29/16, 10:00 AM
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Ahhhh, not a fan of the larger blowers since the 11-14 cant handle the power potential of a 2.9. Its a different story if youre forged or own a 15 and ip.
Old 8/29/16, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown CS
Ahhhh, not a fan of the larger blowers since the 11-14 cant handle the power potential of a 2.9. Its a different story if youre forged or own a 15 and ip.
Yep - that's what I plan to do with Marilyn. When I replace the engine, either I build her up all forged, or crate Aluminator. Then Whipple 2.9 or Kenne Belle.
Old 8/29/16, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
I currently have a 2.3, but you're right. Next time I'm going with at least a 2.9L blower.
The link on the page before, the guy had a '15 with a 2.9L Whipple blower. And still had failed OPGs. If you're doing a build it's easy enough to get the billet OPGs installed.
Old 8/29/16, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
The link on the page before, the guy had a '15 with a 2.9L Whipple blower. And still had failed OPGs. If you're doing a build it's easy enough to get the billet OPGs installed.
Oh totally agree. If I'm "building", yes, I will do EVERYthing right from groundup. I'd probably invest 20k at least, to do the full build/or crate motor swap plus blower.

I have the OEM OPG's now because, well, my blower (and most folks' blowers) are "kits" - and they're mostly bolt on for the most part. Take off the manifold, and injectors, and voila, you're 90% done. If I did a full BUILD, yes, I'd have swapped the OPG's and other parts.
Old 8/29/16, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
I'd probably invest 20k at least, to do the full build/or crate motor swap plus blower.
It would be more than 20k. The Aluminator itself is about 10k and then you need the other little tidbits that go with it and then the new 2.9 supercharger and so on. Oh, and then there's install. Ask me how I know,........lol
Old 8/29/16, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
It would be more than 20k. The Aluminator itself is about 10k and then you need the other little tidbits that go with it and then the new 2.9 supercharger and so on. Oh, and then there's install. Ask me how I know,........lol
Oh I'm doing the install... me and my buddies. He has a shop, etc. I can guarantee I can I get the Aluminator for less than 10k. I also already started pricing a build of my current motor (bore, stroke, sleeved, forged, etc...) so for 20k, I can get that built, plus get the Whipple, injectors, fuel pump, etc. and Dyno Tune. I don't believe that included the upgraded clutch and driveshaft though. So, you're right, it's probably over 20k. But still. That's CHEAP compared to getting a 60-70k Shelby or ZL1.

hmmmmm

edit: something to think about... assume 25k for the complete rebuild. 25k is the price of a topped out Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. So either I can get a Civic/Corolla ORRRRRRRRRRR an 800-900hp beast. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Last edited by FromZto5; 8/29/16 at 02:52 PM.
Old 8/29/16, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
Oh I'm doing the install... me and my buddies. He has a shop, etc. I can guarantee I can I get the Aluminator for less than 10k. I also already started pricing a build of my current motor (bore, stroke, sleeved, forged, etc...) so for 20k, I can get that built, plus get the Whipple, injectors, fuel pump, etc. and Dyno Tune. I don't believe that included the upgraded clutch and driveshaft though. So, you're right, it's probably over 20k. But still. That's CHEAP compared to getting a 60-70k Shelby or ZL1.

hmmmmm
Holy crap, really?!?! Less than 20k?!
Where are you getting this Aluminator from? I searched and searched, but they are all about the same from place to place. About 10k, before three other key components you need to purchase separately. Or, are you talking about building your current engine to make it hold more power for less than 20K?
I was referring to this,
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-A50SC
Old 8/30/16, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
If you're doing the work and spending the $$ on FI, why not spend the few hundred more for the billet OPGs? Seems like it would be worth it just for the peace of mind. I know it's a PITA to do, and more work, but you've done 2/3 of the work by taking the chains off already anyway.
Originally Posted by slow.stang
Why did I take the chains off already?
yeah....why would the chains be off already during a blower install?
Old 8/30/16, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5
But still. That's CHEAP compared to getting a 60-70k Shelby or ZL1.

edit: something to think about... assume 25k for the complete rebuild. 25k is the price of a topped out Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. So either I can get a Civic/Corolla ORRRRRRRRRRR an 800-900hp beast. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Just think,....the 60-70k Shelby will be with the new modern body/interior, have crazy power/torque and have a warranty. Last I heard from a pretty good source was, it made 800HP.

A loaded up Civic sounds better though! LOL
Old 8/30/16, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Coyote5-0
yeah....why would the chains be off already during a blower install?
Doh! I meant the belts. Good catch.
Old 8/31/16, 01:28 PM
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If I could do it all again, I would have just gone ahead and done the OPGs when I installed the blower.

I definitely don't want to take everything apart again just to do them though.
Old 8/31/16, 01:35 PM
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Looks like this is a REAL problem after doing the research. And removing the front cover, timing chains, and oil pump is a pretty big freaking job
Old 8/31/16, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Coyote5-0
Looks like this is a REAL problem after doing the research. And removing the front cover, timing chains, and oil pump is a pretty big freaking job
It's no fun for sure
Old 9/24/16, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SpectreH
He was spinning to 7K, so he had upped the rev limiter. I talked to my tuner about this and he said most, if not all of the failures he had seen were due to upped rev limits and/or aftermarket harmonic balancers.
The failures are due to poor belt tensioner design. Then Harmonics. Then RPM's.
Old 9/26/16, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sqidd
The failures are due to poor belt tensioner design. Then Harmonics. Then RPM's.
Could you elaborate this explanation? I'm having a hard time seeing why the belt tensioner would cause this when the the oil pump isn't driven off of it.
Old 10/3/16, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Coyote5-0
Could you elaborate this explanation? I'm having a hard time seeing why the belt tensioner would cause this when the the oil pump isn't driven off of it.
Most belt tensioners bottom out hard enough to bend them and break them off of their mounts. That takes CONSIDERABLE force. That force is transmitted to the crank snout. It's no different than hitting the balancer with a big hammer. Which goes right through the oil pump gears.

Belt Tensioner Info:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech/be...ioner_tech.htm
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Old 10/3/16, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sqidd
Most belt tensioners bottom out hard enough to bend them and break them off of their mounts. That takes CONSIDERABLE force. That force is transmitted to the crank snout. It's no different than hitting the balancer with a big hammer. Which goes right through the oil pump gears.

Belt Tensioner Info:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech/be...ioner_tech.htm
Never heard of anyone breaking a tensioner with a PD SC.
Old 10/3/16, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown CS
Never heard of anyone breaking a tensioner with a PD SC.
I've seen them break. And I've seen them break off the timing cover.

And even if they didn't break. How hard do you think you would need to hit a tensioner with a hammer to bend it? 5lb sledge? You've seen bent ones before right?


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