Supercharged?! Step inside please
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Roush Forum Stalker
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Be selective when picking out the blower kit also. A bigger blower can always be toned down with pulley sizes. The bigger cc blower will allow more scfm with less boost pressure. So you can actually add more hp with less boost. My cobra was at 21psi which could have done the same power at 15 psi with a bigger blower. Lower psi and more scfm will help with longevity. Lots of people producing big power with these cars and have never cracked a valve cover off. Wouldn't worry about oil pump gears honestly. If you turbo on the other hand, good luck with any and everything.
Makes sense.
I Have No Life
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Be selective when picking out the blower kit also. A bigger blower can always be toned down with pulley sizes. The bigger cc blower will allow more scfm with less boost pressure. So you can actually add more hp with less boost. My cobra was at 21psi which could have done the same power at 15 psi with a bigger blower. Lower psi and more scfm will help with longevity. Lots of people producing big power with these cars and have never cracked a valve cover off. Wouldn't worry about oil pump gears honestly. If you turbo on the other hand, good luck with any and everything.
I Have No Life
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Yep - that's what I plan to do with Marilyn. When I replace the engine, either I build her up all forged, or crate Aluminator. Then Whipple 2.9 or Kenne Belle.
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From: Little north of Stuttgart, Germany
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I have the OEM OPG's now because, well, my blower (and most folks' blowers) are "kits" - and they're mostly bolt on for the most part. Take off the manifold, and injectors, and voila, you're 90% done. If I did a full BUILD, yes, I'd have swapped the OPG's and other parts.
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Roush Forum Stalker
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Ask me how I know,........lol 
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hmmmmm
edit: something to think about... assume 25k for the complete rebuild. 25k is the price of a topped out Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. So either I can get a Civic/Corolla ORRRRRRRRRRR an 800-900hp beast. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Last edited by FromZto5; Aug 29, 2016 at 02:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Roush Forum Stalker
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From: Massachusetts
Oh I'm doing the install... me and my buddies. He has a shop, etc. I can guarantee I can I get the Aluminator for less than 10k. I also already started pricing a build of my current motor (bore, stroke, sleeved, forged, etc...) so for 20k, I can get that built, plus get the Whipple, injectors, fuel pump, etc. and Dyno Tune. I don't believe that included the upgraded clutch and driveshaft though. So, you're right, it's probably over 20k. But still. That's CHEAP compared to getting a 60-70k Shelby or ZL1.
hmmmmm
hmmmmm
Where are you getting this Aluminator from? I searched and searched, but they are all about the same from place to place. About 10k, before three other key components you need to purchase separately. Or, are you talking about building your current engine to make it hold more power for less than 20K?
I was referring to this,
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-A50SC
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: May 31, 2013
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From: Indianapolis
If you're doing the work and spending the $$ on FI, why not spend the few hundred more for the billet OPGs? Seems like it would be worth it just for the peace of mind. I know it's a PITA to do, and more work, but you've done 2/3 of the work by taking the chains off already anyway. 
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Roush Forum Stalker
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From: Massachusetts
But still. That's CHEAP compared to getting a 60-70k Shelby or ZL1.
edit: something to think about... assume 25k for the complete rebuild. 25k is the price of a topped out Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. So either I can get a Civic/Corolla ORRRRRRRRRRR an 800-900hp beast. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
edit: something to think about... assume 25k for the complete rebuild. 25k is the price of a topped out Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. So either I can get a Civic/Corolla ORRRRRRRRRRR an 800-900hp beast. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
A loaded up Civic sounds better though! LOL
Bullitt Member
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From: Metro Detroit
The failures are due to poor belt tensioner design. Then Harmonics. Then RPM's.
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From: Indianapolis
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 11, 2010
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From: Metro Detroit
Belt Tensioner Info:
http://departmentofboost.com/tech/be...ioner_tech.htm
Mach 1 Member
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From: Indiana
Most belt tensioners bottom out hard enough to bend them and break them off of their mounts. That takes CONSIDERABLE force. That force is transmitted to the crank snout. It's no different than hitting the balancer with a big hammer. Which goes right through the oil pump gears.
Belt Tensioner Info:
http://departmentofboost.com/tech/be...ioner_tech.htm
Belt Tensioner Info:
http://departmentofboost.com/tech/be...ioner_tech.htm
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 11, 2010
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From: Metro Detroit
I've seen them break. And I've seen them break off the timing cover.
And even if they didn't break. How hard do you think you would need to hit a tensioner with a hammer to bend it? 5lb sledge? You've seen bent ones before right?
And even if they didn't break. How hard do you think you would need to hit a tensioner with a hammer to bend it? 5lb sledge? You've seen bent ones before right?