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NEW PRODUCT Barton Shifter Bracket

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Old 7/18/11, 08:15 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by futonpimp

Only discount is 10 dollars on orders of 250 or more, google American muscle coupon code.
I think it's "hotpony" or that might have been the code for June.
Old 8/4/11, 04:49 PM
  #102  
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guys i installed mine.

I really gotta play with the boot because the noise almost sounds like I'm supercharged... there is a pretty noticible whine. Its not so bad I can't live with it, just a bit annoying.

My bigger problem is how hard it is to get into reverse... I really think i messed up somewehre in the install... theres no reason it should take two hands for me to get in reverse. I'm not a big guy, not a very strong guy but even still theres no reason this is normal.

Can anyone tell me if it makes any sense that I did something wrong? I'm thinking when i transfered the ball cap thing from the oem shifter to this one maybe I didn't seat it right back into the car before bolting it down ?

Would really really like some advice please.


edit: This looks like it will probably fix my problem... will try it after class and see if it took care of it...

Originally Posted by barton
Hey Guys, I wish I could do a group buy for you guys, but we use different dealers that carry inventory, and I dont feel that would be fair to them. But I have put a combo together with a discount.

wally10- Make sure you installed the boot like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUGeg...&feature=feedu If you didn't it will cause extra noise, and will also give you reverse issues.

FastRedPonyCar- Yes, I will edit the website to give an option of a complete package with the shift ****.

Rodmoe- The 401a ball will work perfect with our shifter.

Thanks for the orders. I have already started shipping them, and the shifters will be going out tomorrow.

Last edited by starbai; 8/4/11 at 04:52 PM.
Old 8/5/11, 12:17 PM
  #103  
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Hey guys....

First of all it was the rubber boot install issue. I fixed it (severe pain in the *** since everything was already bolted up) but its set right now and its perfect.

No issues with reverse, the noise is much reduced but a bit of gear whine is still present and its a little louder than stock. If the AC/Radio is off its noticible... with those things on though it sounds like a little whine... almost like a weak super charger whine, i kinda like it! lol -- as long as its not hurting anything/causing premature wear, I'm perfectly fine with the 'sound'

Its pretty amazing how much more 'sure footed' this thing feels. I dont know for sure if a bracket only will fix your problem, as i did both bracket and shifter.

The thing feels the way a sports car's manual should feel to me. Its a lot like my S2000's was. A bit notchier, but sure footed... there's no possible way you could miss a shift or question what gear you're in.

The throw is dramatically reduced and I know that everyone has a different taste, but i love it now. Its again exactly the way it should be.


As for the gear whine, I plan on using some dynomat in that area, i really think it will help dissipate some of the resonance coming from the extra Vibrations. Not a crazy amount, just a bit.

Dynamat doesn't need to cover an area 100% just a few patches will help decrease the vibration in the panels. I'll report back how it goes...
Old 8/5/11, 12:55 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by starbai
As for the gear whine, I plan on using some dynomat in that area, i really think it will help dissipate some of the resonance coming from the extra Vibrations. Not a crazy amount, just a bit.

Dynamat doesn't need to cover an area 100% just a few patches will help decrease the vibration in the panels. I'll report back how it goes...
let me know how you like it after noise treatement and how much you used and where (pics preferably) as I want to do this as well.

ever since I added the sound deadening to the doors during the speaker swap, the road noise from under the center console is more noticeable. I guess before I did that, there was road noise from the doors thrown into the mix so I didn't hear it from the center console.
Old 8/5/11, 01:04 PM
  #105  
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what did you use in the doors?

Keep in mind that dynamat is only good for resonance... (I'm not even sure I'm using that term correctly) -- but basically it keeps the vibration and echos out of metal panels.

If you want actual quiet, that is SOUND ABSORPTION... dynamat isn't going to do the job.

That padding stuff thats already in there, is what baffles sound, a little more of it would go a long way, but this stuff helps with noise not vibrations.

Just to make it clear, dynmat (CLD) will help a trunk not rattle when there is excess vibration coming from a subwoofer back there...

But you could line a car's whole interior cabin in the stuff, and it wont drop in sound at all... you'd need actual sound deadening material.

Its the difference between this:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

and this:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/mlv

CLD is what I assume you added to your doors to help with some of the vibration, and what I plan on adding to the transmission tunnel area.

If you really want to quiet down the car of road noise (not necessarily the sweet engine sound) - you'd probably want to use a combo of the CLD and MLV in strategic areas... (fenderwells, floor panels, doors)

Last edited by starbai; 8/5/11 at 01:06 PM.
Old 8/5/11, 01:17 PM
  #106  
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I use the b-quiet extreme stuff. I'm not sure exactly what it technically is classified as but I know it's a lot quieter in my car as a result of putting int all over the inside of the doors.
Old 8/5/11, 01:23 PM
  #107  
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yeap that would be considered CLD. http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html

sound absorbtion would be this stuff: http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html

CLD (what you've used) is what I plan on using to help out some of the increased vibration sound of the bracket.
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