I installed the Ford Racing M-5300-P springs on my 2011 GT and now the car has a fair amount of negative camber. I noticed this with the stock springs but it seems more exaggerated now that I have dropped the car one inch. I see Eibach has camber adjustment bolts available to repair the problem but it seems risky installing a smaller than stock bolt to correct the problem. Has anyone else run into this problem?

 

What accounts for "too much" negative camber will vary from one person to another. Personally I run a little more than -2.5° camber on my Mustang (with the Eibach bolts and Steeda springs), but I only put a few thousand miles street miles on it annually, and it gets autocrossed a lot. You should get it checked out to see how much negative camber you have, instead of just eyeballing it. Up to -1.0° will be fine for most people, and even a little more shouldn't cause too much inside front tire wear unless you mostly drive on straight freeways, assuming you rotate your tires adequately. More negative camber in front helps the car handle better, but too much can cause uneven tire wear for some people.

 

did u get it aligned?

 

camber bolts are common practice. I have had them in mine for a long time no issues.

 

I sell a lot of the camber bolts, folks like them because they are cheap @ $27.50. But I don't feel that's the best way to really correct the issue. They will fix your camber, but the bolts are very small and they can't hold the torque that the stock bolts can. Ford makes their own camber bolts which are stock sized shanks and require slotting the strut. And they had a second version of those released because the first versions (which were WAY bigger than Eibach bolts) were slipping.

The best solution, though one that costs more, is a set of something like the Steeda HD mounts. Not only will they not slip, but camber is more easily adjusted with them--and the best part is they get rid of the problematic Ford Strut mounts.... The only hitch is at this time they don't work on 2011 struts, so unless you are going to change dampers to something else you can't use those (yet, they are working on versions for 2011 struts specifically).

 

My Camber with the P springs is -1.2 degrees. In the grand scheme of things this is not a lot of camber compared to specs for many (euro) performance cars. It's also still within spec of -.75 +/- .50. Correct toe settings and regular rotations will not result in excessive wear at this number (provided you're not strictly a straight line guy)..

 

Watch you tire wear... I run way more than that, but I'm an autocrosser, and I need the camber for the best grip. Is -1.2 crazy? Not off the charts, but it will cause accelerated inside tread wear on a car that just runs up and down highways without much hard cornering to also wear down the rest of the tire. Also braking is a bit compromised, and the car is more prone to tramlining and following ruts with increased negative camber.

 

Perfectly even wear across the tread at 2500 miles, but I tend to push the car in the corners a bit, so this is working for me...

 

Then that's a good number... Just not for everyone. I run -2. And will have more when I change the class I run my 5.0 in.

 

I agree....
When I had my '08 Corvette, an inordinate number of forum guys used to dial out every bit of camber front and rear so their tires wouldn't wear unevenly on their weekly trips to whatever car show they were in...I always found that pretty amusing, but really, everyone should set the car up to fit their individual needs..

 

I daily drive (30 miles) with -1.5°. Haven't run into any tire wear problems yet, although I go through a set of tires every year due to the mileage. I just switched to 275s all around, and I did notice a lot more tranlining though. I think that has more to do with the tire, however, and not the width or camber.