In need of guidance on this TVS 2300 FRPP SC
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In need of guidance on this TVS 2300 FRPP SC
Just bought a white 5.0 MY13 MT trans S197 w/ 21k miles on her and wish to knock out ALL the reliability mods now before I start modifying anything else.
The previous owner simply slapped on a FRPP 624hp SC kit w/ FRPP exhaust. Still has cats, and everything else is stock.
Here are my questions:
-I understand I should replace the OPG for piece of mind.
-I understand you guys run OCC's like we do in the N54 world.
-Is there a "best" OCC kit for high horsepower SC's? (I plan on going 680whp in the near future)
-I understand intake and catless exhaust will aid in breathing/cooling.
-I understand I will need to replace the clutch for the tune & smaller pulley I will eventually put on.
-What other cooling modifications would aid if this will be my daily driver in traffic, w/ the ac on? I'd like to keep IAT's low
-Outside of welding the rear axle, what else should I purchase to aid in driveline abuse? Presumable 1-piece driveshaft?
-What all would you do for piece of mind & reliability?
The previous owner simply slapped on a FRPP 624hp SC kit w/ FRPP exhaust. Still has cats, and everything else is stock.
Here are my questions:
-I understand I should replace the OPG for piece of mind.
-I understand you guys run OCC's like we do in the N54 world.
-Is there a "best" OCC kit for high horsepower SC's? (I plan on going 680whp in the near future)
-I understand intake and catless exhaust will aid in breathing/cooling.
-I understand I will need to replace the clutch for the tune & smaller pulley I will eventually put on.
-What other cooling modifications would aid if this will be my daily driver in traffic, w/ the ac on? I'd like to keep IAT's low
-Outside of welding the rear axle, what else should I purchase to aid in driveline abuse? Presumable 1-piece driveshaft?
-What all would you do for piece of mind & reliability?
Last edited by J. Dub; 12/4/17 at 03:20 PM.
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If the suspension is still stock, start there.
Get rid of the wheel hop-prone rear lower control arms, throw on there some BMR polyurethane arms, they're quite inexpensive, can get a set for less than $100.
I'd also recommend their adjustable upper control arm and arm mount.
WHen you get their pieces and the factory pieces in your hands sideby-side, you'll be amazed at how flimsy the stock pieces are and how freakin' beefy the BMR stuff is.
Also, some lowering springs, since the car sits so high especially in the rear.
I'm on Steeda Sport springs and they have a great balance of drop, ride, and handling.
If I was to do it again, with the extra weight of the blower on the front, I'd probably consider springs meant for an '11+ GT500, since the regular GT springs drop an extra 1/4" or so in the front when the blower is added.
Struts/shocks, a top choice would be the Bilstein kit, but I love the Koni Sports on my car. Adjustable, and great ride.
Engine-wise, if you're gonna go for 600+ rwhp, it's highly recommended you do billet oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket.
Also, the stock FRPP heat exchanger is about 1" thick, it kinda sucks.
I run a VMP dual-fan unit, there are others that would be a huge improvement to keep the supercharger coolant from going too hot.
You might want to pull a spark plug and see what's in there.
The FRPP installation manual simply states to re-gap the factory spark plugs.
I did the zero-heat-range FRPP plugs when I initially did my FRPP/Whipple kit, and later I switched to what I'm running now, NGK TR7 iridium plugs (I'm pretty sure that's the model)
A JLT 123mm intake kit and custom tune will really wake up the FRPP 624 kit, and also consider a new throttle body, since the stock twin-60mm unit is kinda small. I like my FRPP twin-65.
Cats, I'm still running mine, car's got 44k on it, blower went on at about 21k, car's been at about 600 rwhp for about half the time since install.
If you're gonna race the car, yes, weld the rear axle tubes and consider a 1-piece driveshaft.
I had issues with my DSS shaft, ended up having the blown rear CV joint repaired and then sold it.
I'm only considering one brand next, the Spicer/Ford Racing unit.
Clutch, there is an Exedy that's working really well for these cars, I forget which model, might need to Google a bit.
Also, McLeod makes really nice clutches, the RST and the RXT.
The RXT in racing with the MT82, has been blowing up 3rd gears.
Apparently it grabs too hard, so a lot of guys and trans builders are now saying to only do the RST with the MT82, not the RXT.
What's an OCC?
.
Get rid of the wheel hop-prone rear lower control arms, throw on there some BMR polyurethane arms, they're quite inexpensive, can get a set for less than $100.
I'd also recommend their adjustable upper control arm and arm mount.
WHen you get their pieces and the factory pieces in your hands sideby-side, you'll be amazed at how flimsy the stock pieces are and how freakin' beefy the BMR stuff is.
Also, some lowering springs, since the car sits so high especially in the rear.
I'm on Steeda Sport springs and they have a great balance of drop, ride, and handling.
If I was to do it again, with the extra weight of the blower on the front, I'd probably consider springs meant for an '11+ GT500, since the regular GT springs drop an extra 1/4" or so in the front when the blower is added.
Struts/shocks, a top choice would be the Bilstein kit, but I love the Koni Sports on my car. Adjustable, and great ride.
Engine-wise, if you're gonna go for 600+ rwhp, it's highly recommended you do billet oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket.
Also, the stock FRPP heat exchanger is about 1" thick, it kinda sucks.
I run a VMP dual-fan unit, there are others that would be a huge improvement to keep the supercharger coolant from going too hot.
You might want to pull a spark plug and see what's in there.
The FRPP installation manual simply states to re-gap the factory spark plugs.
I did the zero-heat-range FRPP plugs when I initially did my FRPP/Whipple kit, and later I switched to what I'm running now, NGK TR7 iridium plugs (I'm pretty sure that's the model)
A JLT 123mm intake kit and custom tune will really wake up the FRPP 624 kit, and also consider a new throttle body, since the stock twin-60mm unit is kinda small. I like my FRPP twin-65.
Cats, I'm still running mine, car's got 44k on it, blower went on at about 21k, car's been at about 600 rwhp for about half the time since install.
If you're gonna race the car, yes, weld the rear axle tubes and consider a 1-piece driveshaft.
I had issues with my DSS shaft, ended up having the blown rear CV joint repaired and then sold it.
I'm only considering one brand next, the Spicer/Ford Racing unit.
Clutch, there is an Exedy that's working really well for these cars, I forget which model, might need to Google a bit.
Also, McLeod makes really nice clutches, the RST and the RXT.
The RXT in racing with the MT82, has been blowing up 3rd gears.
Apparently it grabs too hard, so a lot of guys and trans builders are now saying to only do the RST with the MT82, not the RXT.
What's an OCC?
.
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You're welcome.
I run a Billet Technology oil catch can on the passenger side. Had one on the driver side and it didn't catch anything since it's mostly a fresh air tract.
Air goes into the crankcase on the driver side, comes out on the passenger side.
I run a Billet Technology oil catch can on the passenger side. Had one on the driver side and it didn't catch anything since it's mostly a fresh air tract.
Air goes into the crankcase on the driver side, comes out on the passenger side.