Naturally Aspirated Power Upgrades
3/28/17, 12:23 PM
#1
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Naturally Aspirated Power Upgrades
I'm trying to see how much HP & Torque can be made on my 2013 GT, through bolt on parts (No Superchargers, Turbo's or NOS). I've installed the Boss 302 Intake (May change to Cobra Jet intake), Steeda CAI, Steeda 93 octane tune, (X4 SCT Tuner) Roush Axle Backs, Steeda Aluminum 3.5" Drive Shaft, Kooks 1-3/4" Stainless Long Tube headers and Catted "Green" X-Pipe are on order. I'm thinking on a larger Throttle Body, I see BBK makes a 90MM. Am I missing something? I'm doing this to see how fast (1 mile, Flying mile, Loring Airbase) it can do. I know I need to get into the suspension as well, right now I have the Track Pack package it came with.
I wonder at what point (Speed) I'll have to worry about aerodynamics. Thoughts?
I wonder at what point (Speed) I'll have to worry about aerodynamics. Thoughts?
3/28/17, 12:56 PM
#2
Shelby GT350 Member
You're not missing much! Just a few thoughts:
The Boss intake is really oriented around high RPM performance and the stock bottom end can't tolerate much of an increase to the redline so it's sadly largely wasted on our cars. You have one...so maybe you can disagree here but this is the what the "tribal knowledge" says about that manifold.
The Cobrajet manifold may be better here but the stock manifold is likely better for drag racing and definitely better for around town.
You'll want performance tires...if you go with slicks, you'll need to have the axle tubes welded at the housing.
Unless things have changed recently, a larger throttlebody does nothing for our cars. Use that money for gasoline.
You'll also want a driveshaft loop, especially with that aftermarket shaft.
Next would be drag-oriented suspension and weight reduction.
The only other piece of advice that I'd lend here is to know before you buy.
It looks like you put together some great equipment but it's possible that 50% of this improvement is from just the 93 octane tune...sometimes this information can save us some money.
In any case, the car is going to be a blast. Please keep us posed on your progress.
So your question is about how much power you'll make? From what I've seen from others, you probably picked up ~50hp to the wheels and with a broader power band too. So...420-430 rwhp peak? Totally a guess...but it should be pretty obvious when you're hammering on it, no?
With good tires, you should be well into the 11s, assuming you know how to drive.
The Boss intake is really oriented around high RPM performance and the stock bottom end can't tolerate much of an increase to the redline so it's sadly largely wasted on our cars. You have one...so maybe you can disagree here but this is the what the "tribal knowledge" says about that manifold.
The Cobrajet manifold may be better here but the stock manifold is likely better for drag racing and definitely better for around town.
You'll want performance tires...if you go with slicks, you'll need to have the axle tubes welded at the housing.
Unless things have changed recently, a larger throttlebody does nothing for our cars. Use that money for gasoline.
You'll also want a driveshaft loop, especially with that aftermarket shaft.
Next would be drag-oriented suspension and weight reduction.
The only other piece of advice that I'd lend here is to know before you buy.
It looks like you put together some great equipment but it's possible that 50% of this improvement is from just the 93 octane tune...sometimes this information can save us some money.
In any case, the car is going to be a blast. Please keep us posed on your progress.
So your question is about how much power you'll make? From what I've seen from others, you probably picked up ~50hp to the wheels and with a broader power band too. So...420-430 rwhp peak? Totally a guess...but it should be pretty obvious when you're hammering on it, no?
With good tires, you should be well into the 11s, assuming you know how to drive.
Last edited by MRGTX; 3/28/17 at 01:00 PM.
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3/28/17, 02:37 PM
#3
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What gears are you using? Track Pack come with 3.73 and though good for acceleration, you're likely going to be limited at the high end by 5th gear max speed of ~155 or so.
What is your red line with your tune?
What power/tq are you putting down with you current mods?
What is your red line with your tune?
What power/tq are you putting down with you current mods?
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tourer (3/29/17)
3/29/17, 05:55 AM
#4
Shelby GT350 Member
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tourer (3/29/17)
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tourer (3/29/17)
3/29/17, 06:54 AM
#6
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
3:15's is what it says on my build sheet.
3/29/17, 06:58 AM
#7
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Redline, Not sure, I didn't realize it changes with a tune. I don't know what HP/TQ as I haven't had access to a Dyno, Just my seat of the pants impression. I don't believe I lost much down low, but it really hauls *** starting at 2500 RPM's, It revs to 7000 plus between shifts (Auto Trans).
3/29/17, 06:58 AM
#8
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
3/29/17, 07:02 AM
#9
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
3/29/17, 11:23 AM
#10
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
I found out the red line with the 93 octane tune is now 7300. If I hammer it and let the auto trans do the shifting, it shifts 6900-7000 I believe, my eyeballs are being pressed back into my skull at this point. I do need to get this on a Dyno to see where I'm at. Here in Southern Maine, there isn't any shop with a Dyno I know of.
3/29/17, 12:27 PM
#11
Shelby GT350 Member
I believe the high speed hood problems can be alleviated with hood pins....
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
IIRC, most tuners give you 7,300 rpm...but I don't believe that it's worth a **** to these motors as they don't make power up that high, even with the Boss manifold. If someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
I found out the red line with the 93 octane tune is now 7300. If I hammer it and let the auto trans do the shifting, it shifts 6900-7000 I believe, my eyeballs are being pressed back into my skull at this point. I do need to get this on a Dyno to see where I'm at. Here in Southern Maine, there isn't any shop with a Dyno I know of.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
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tourer (3/30/17)
3/29/17, 12:39 PM
#12
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I believe the high speed hood problems can be alleviated with hood pins....
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
IIRC, most tuners give you 7,300 rpm...but I don't believe that it's worth a **** to these motors as they don't make power up that high, even with the Boss manifold. If someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
IIRC, most tuners give you 7,300 rpm...but I don't believe that it's worth a **** to these motors as they don't make power up that high, even with the Boss manifold. If someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
CJ maniford makes power in the 7000 to 8000 range.
Also on the hood topic I can tell you the 13-14 cars are solid to at least 135. That's as fast as i can get on local tracks.
Last edited by 5.M0NSTER; 3/29/17 at 12:50 PM.
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tourer (3/30/17)
3/29/17, 12:49 PM
#13
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I found out the red line with the 93 octane tune is now 7300. If I hammer it and let the auto trans do the shifting, it shifts 6900-7000 I believe, my eyeballs are being pressed back into my skull at this point. I do need to get this on a Dyno to see where I'm at. Here in Southern Maine, there isn't any shop with a Dyno I know of.
The following users liked this post:
tourer (3/30/17)
3/30/17, 11:50 AM
#14
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
I believe the high speed hood problems can be alleviated with hood pins....
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
IIRC, most tuners give you 7,300 rpm...but I don't believe that it's worth a **** to these motors as they don't make power up that high, even with the Boss manifold. If someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
Again, the 2010-2012 cars have the hood that goes all the way to the leading edge where the '13-'14 cars have the grille piece that is flush with the hood...and it also has the vents which should alleviate under hood pressure. I've never gone fast enough to worry about it but if you notice your hood starting to bow at high speeds, that's your cue to get out of the throttle gently.
IIRC, most tuners give you 7,300 rpm...but I don't believe that it's worth a **** to these motors as they don't make power up that high, even with the Boss manifold. If someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
I can promise you this, regularly revving to 7,300 will shorten the life of your rotating assembly...also, hitting the rev limiter, especially with the extra rpm, will put your oil pump gears at high risk of failing.
"Mechanical empathy" is always a good thing if you love your car.
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MRGTX (3/31/17)
3/30/17, 11:56 AM
#15
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
My tune is 7200 from Steeda, and the HP just starts dropping off at that point. I track mine, so it lives in the 4000-6500RPM for 8 hours each summer, but I'm with you. I short shift when I can to lessen the strain.
CJ maniford makes power in the 7000 to 8000 range.
Also on the hood topic I can tell you the 13-14 cars are solid to at least 135. That's as fast as i can get on local tracks.
CJ maniford makes power in the 7000 to 8000 range.
Also on the hood topic I can tell you the 13-14 cars are solid to at least 135. That's as fast as i can get on local tracks.
3/30/17, 01:01 PM
#16
Cobra Member
Also a big help in the power department would be an Aluminium flywheel. It will spool up much quicker. Lighten up any rotating mass will change how fast the car gets up to speed. Wheels is another factor. I don't think it will change the HP #'s but the torque #'s will improve. This ='s going faster.
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tourer (4/3/17)
3/31/17, 09:50 AM
#17
Shelby GT350 Member
Also a big help in the power department would be an Aluminium flywheel. It will spool up much quicker. Lighten up any rotating mass will change how fast the car gets up to speed. Wheels is another factor. I don't think it will change the HP #'s but the torque #'s will improve. This ='s going faster.
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tourer (4/3/17)
5/9/18, 03:51 PM
#18
Legacy TMS Member
Wow. A year later this thread pops up on Facebook on Mustang Source's page, as if it was a current conversation:
https://www.facebook.com/TheMustangSource/
And also:
https://themustangsource.com/more-po...tang-gt-25111/
https://www.facebook.com/TheMustangSource/
And also:
https://themustangsource.com/more-po...tang-gt-25111/
Last edited by Gabe; 5/9/18 at 03:54 PM.
5/21/18, 09:27 PM
#19
Mach 1 Member
talk to the guys and girls at american muscle who have been running a 7900 rpm redline on the stock coyote block for a couple years now with no problems, our motors can definetely take a lot more than the stock redline with no sweat!!
5/23/18, 01:04 PM
#20
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do you know if it’s with the Boss valve valvetrain? It has springs good for 8000 rpm. On stock coyotes I think we start getting valve control issues over 7300