Mcleod RXT clutch on 2011 Mustang GT, stock flywheel
10/13/11, 04:29 PM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Mcleod RXT clutch on 2011 Mustang GT, stock flywheel
Just some info, as typically these are installed on a mcleod flywheel.
the stock flywheel has a inner diameter of its friction surface of 7"
The mcleod is somewhere around 6.15" ID for its clutch. 9.5" is the outer diameter. That gives a total friction area of 43.9in^2. With the stock flywheel having a larger ID, there's some overhang. With the overhang, the usable friction surface becomes 35.1in^2 for a loss of 20% surface (although with 4 sides, that becomes a 5% overall friction surface loss). How those translate to holding power, I'm not sure, and I'm don't believe that's a 1:1 type relationship, especially when talking about the inner diameters not matching versus the outers. However, that will lead to uneven wear down the road, although I believe I'll get a great many miles out of this clutch otherwise.
I'm going to use the stock flywheel, I'm completely out of funds, had to use the money for my monthly mortgage payment to repair the clutch on my car after Ford denied warranty coverage (which the mortgage is being handled, of course, just pushed back a week and tight for rest of month).. Otherwise I'd get a Mcleod steel unit that had the reduced inner radius. The factory disk sheared the friction surface off the flywheel side, with no scoring, signs of abuse or heat/blue on any surfaces. The turkish built disks in these cars are a joke, and I've had two fall apart this way.
The car makes 400RWHP and will be revved to 7500rpm, the RXT is rated to 1k HP, 9k rpm. Despite the overhang, I should be ok.
This is in response to this thread on another mustang board (regarding Ford's absolute non-sense when it comes to warranty coverage):
https://themustangsource.com/f804/re...oughts-500628/
Thoughts?
the stock flywheel has a inner diameter of its friction surface of 7"
The mcleod is somewhere around 6.15" ID for its clutch. 9.5" is the outer diameter. That gives a total friction area of 43.9in^2. With the stock flywheel having a larger ID, there's some overhang. With the overhang, the usable friction surface becomes 35.1in^2 for a loss of 20% surface (although with 4 sides, that becomes a 5% overall friction surface loss). How those translate to holding power, I'm not sure, and I'm don't believe that's a 1:1 type relationship, especially when talking about the inner diameters not matching versus the outers. However, that will lead to uneven wear down the road, although I believe I'll get a great many miles out of this clutch otherwise.
I'm going to use the stock flywheel, I'm completely out of funds, had to use the money for my monthly mortgage payment to repair the clutch on my car after Ford denied warranty coverage (which the mortgage is being handled, of course, just pushed back a week and tight for rest of month).. Otherwise I'd get a Mcleod steel unit that had the reduced inner radius. The factory disk sheared the friction surface off the flywheel side, with no scoring, signs of abuse or heat/blue on any surfaces. The turkish built disks in these cars are a joke, and I've had two fall apart this way.
The car makes 400RWHP and will be revved to 7500rpm, the RXT is rated to 1k HP, 9k rpm. Despite the overhang, I should be ok.
This is in response to this thread on another mustang board (regarding Ford's absolute non-sense when it comes to warranty coverage):
https://themustangsource.com/f804/re...oughts-500628/
Thoughts?
Last edited by CaptDistraction; 10/13/11 at 04:38 PM.
10/14/11, 07:36 PM
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
There aren't words for how angry this situation has made me.
I get the car back today, pay my $730 in labor, and the clutch is super smooth.
However, there's all SORTS of new noises in the car. There's a number of things loose (I fear the K member or some suspension component) up front in the car (I believe a transmission mount too). all sorts of clunking noises and moans/pops. I don't think the car is even really tracking straight on bumpy roads. I have to carry it back to the dealer again tomorrow, although the tech that worked on my car won't be there.
In addition, a new noise has popped up that has me really worried. I've recorded it, and its in low RPM in all gears, sounds very gear/mechanical/metal like, and its much louder than the mic picked up (hard to make out over the exhaust). I shot a video, anyone have thoughts?
I'm also scared that the steps weren't followed for the clutch install (the pickup is now up at the last 2 inches of pedal travel, there's no slipping when all out, but it feels really, really high up on the pedal, most of the pedal travel isn't used/feel no feathering engagement until almost all the way out).
Here's the video of the noise:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrqI2NujCB0
This could be from the mcleod dual disc clutch, but I really really wouldn't think it would cause all that much noise and be that unfriendly to drive :/
I get the car back today, pay my $730 in labor, and the clutch is super smooth.
However, there's all SORTS of new noises in the car. There's a number of things loose (I fear the K member or some suspension component) up front in the car (I believe a transmission mount too). all sorts of clunking noises and moans/pops. I don't think the car is even really tracking straight on bumpy roads. I have to carry it back to the dealer again tomorrow, although the tech that worked on my car won't be there.
In addition, a new noise has popped up that has me really worried. I've recorded it, and its in low RPM in all gears, sounds very gear/mechanical/metal like, and its much louder than the mic picked up (hard to make out over the exhaust). I shot a video, anyone have thoughts?
I'm also scared that the steps weren't followed for the clutch install (the pickup is now up at the last 2 inches of pedal travel, there's no slipping when all out, but it feels really, really high up on the pedal, most of the pedal travel isn't used/feel no feathering engagement until almost all the way out).
Here's the video of the noise:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrqI2NujCB0
This could be from the mcleod dual disc clutch, but I really really wouldn't think it would cause all that much noise and be that unfriendly to drive :/
10/16/11, 12:30 PM
#4
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Issues were solved at the visit to the dealer. Shockingly, the front suspension was loose:
All four strut housings to spindle bolts were loose (required 1/4 turn to get to tight), and they were moving independently of each other. Same with the bolts going through the swaybar ends up front. They also tightened the exhaust somewhat. The tech that worked with me added some witness marks to keep an eye on those bolts.
As far as the drive line noises, they seemed to have dissipated as well. Maybe break-in? The mcleod uses a tethered floater, so I don't believe it could bang around too much. Still takes some getting used to, pretty grabby/little chattery right now, but it only has about 70 miles on it so far.
Still taking some getting used to with the engagement up so high, and the pedal feeling like there's nothing there, but for now I can at least say the car is back in the shape I expected it to be. I have no idea how those bolts could be loose (there's a possibility I was last to tighten them, and that's a scary thought given how **** I am about ensuring proper torque being met on bolts). I have had an alignment and ford did replace my front LCA's (and another alignment) since then, so hopefully that wasn't my goof.
However, either way from now on I'll be keeping an eye on those bolts.
All four strut housings to spindle bolts were loose (required 1/4 turn to get to tight), and they were moving independently of each other. Same with the bolts going through the swaybar ends up front. They also tightened the exhaust somewhat. The tech that worked with me added some witness marks to keep an eye on those bolts.
As far as the drive line noises, they seemed to have dissipated as well. Maybe break-in? The mcleod uses a tethered floater, so I don't believe it could bang around too much. Still takes some getting used to, pretty grabby/little chattery right now, but it only has about 70 miles on it so far.
Still taking some getting used to with the engagement up so high, and the pedal feeling like there's nothing there, but for now I can at least say the car is back in the shape I expected it to be. I have no idea how those bolts could be loose (there's a possibility I was last to tighten them, and that's a scary thought given how **** I am about ensuring proper torque being met on bolts). I have had an alignment and ford did replace my front LCA's (and another alignment) since then, so hopefully that wasn't my goof.
However, either way from now on I'll be keeping an eye on those bolts.
10/17/11, 10:55 AM
#5
Glad to hear your woes have been resolved. Been a rough month, eh?
10/29/11, 12:42 PM
#6
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
bumping this, since more than half of the pedal travel is now dead zone (already released fully), I'm going to investigate building a pedal stop to reduce overall throw. Hopefully that will let me adjust to this high release better. When I got back into the car after driving a 7.3ps F350SD with a stick for a week, first thing I did was a burnout trying to sneak out of a housing complex. Oops.
5/1/16, 08:52 PM
#7
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Issues were solved at the visit to the dealer. Shockingly, the front suspension was loose:
All four strut housings to spindle bolts were loose (required 1/4 turn to get to tight), and they were moving independently of each other. Same with the bolts going through the swaybar ends up front. They also tightened the exhaust somewhat. The tech that worked with me added some witness marks to keep an eye on those bolts.
As far as the drive line noises, they seemed to have dissipated as well. Maybe break-in? The mcleod uses a tethered floater, so I don't believe it could bang around too much. Still takes some getting used to, pretty grabby/little chattery right now, but it only has about 70 miles on it so far.
Still taking some getting used to with the engagement up so high, and the pedal feeling like there's nothing there, but for now I can at least say the car is back in the shape I expected it to be. I have no idea how those bolts could be loose (there's a possibility I was last to tighten them, and that's a scary thought given how **** I am about ensuring proper torque being met on bolts). I have had an alignment and ford did replace my front LCA's (and another alignment) since then, so hopefully that wasn't my goof.
However, either way from now on I'll be keeping an eye on those bolts.
All four strut housings to spindle bolts were loose (required 1/4 turn to get to tight), and they were moving independently of each other. Same with the bolts going through the swaybar ends up front. They also tightened the exhaust somewhat. The tech that worked with me added some witness marks to keep an eye on those bolts.
As far as the drive line noises, they seemed to have dissipated as well. Maybe break-in? The mcleod uses a tethered floater, so I don't believe it could bang around too much. Still takes some getting used to, pretty grabby/little chattery right now, but it only has about 70 miles on it so far.
Still taking some getting used to with the engagement up so high, and the pedal feeling like there's nothing there, but for now I can at least say the car is back in the shape I expected it to be. I have no idea how those bolts could be loose (there's a possibility I was last to tighten them, and that's a scary thought given how **** I am about ensuring proper torque being met on bolts). I have had an alignment and ford did replace my front LCA's (and another alignment) since then, so hopefully that wasn't my goof.
However, either way from now on I'll be keeping an eye on those bolts.
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