Well, the LCAs did nothing for me to help wheel hop. From what I've been reading it seems like lowering the car has cured it for everyone.

 

I don't know the specifics of this Steeda model. (The website pics don't appear to illustrate the 4406 model), but in general, spherical bearings = MAXIMUM NVH. This essentially creates a metal-to-metal connection between the tires and the chassis.

 

Good to know. I'm not interested in sacrificing to a significant extent the comfort of my daily driver. More intel is appreciated.

 

Yep. I can't wait to get mine off. The added NVH makes highway driving a major PITA.

 

NVH can come from a number of things. Anytime you have a more "solid" link between the axle and the body you will get some more feedback into the body.

That said, a QUALITY spherical bearing isn't trouble... all sphericals and rod-ends get a bad rap because cheap ones (which are more commonly used) rattle and are pretty bad. I've got a number of customers on that 4406 set, and nobody has complained about noise yet. In fact I hear more of that with other arms, and I think it's because......

Tubular arms act as sound tubes. The Billet arms do not act like a megaphone. And because the rear mount is free to articulate you get less vibration transfer. Can these eventually make a little noise? Yes, as the bearing wears a some play can result in a bit of noise, which leads me to......

UMI arms with a roto-joint as an option. Tubular... but the roto-joint is a *rebuildable and serviceable* spherical bearing, meaning you can snug it up if it starts to make any noise, or even completely rebuild it if you want.

 

Listen to Sam..he knows his stuff.

 

And why is that? Making blind claims like that isn't reassuring...

 

It would seem that Sam has more than the necessary credentials to back up his blind claims.

When I was a teenager I was told that every MAN thinks he can out drive, fight and .... let's use, "LOVE" everyone else. I run a gym where I train fighters. 99% of the people who come in telling me what a bad **** they are get in my cage and embarrass themselves. They can't fight a lick and are typically an embarrassment to the concepts of the American Tough Guy.

I tend to recommend that when possible it's a good idea to listen to the experts. People who have accomplished something in the field tend to be in a superior position to make recommendations than even the most gifted and insightful neophyte.

Perhaps I misunderstood your post, happens a lot around here. If so, I'm sorry.

But, a claim which may or may not be blind from an accomplished expert in the field, is about as reassuring as one can reasonably expect to get on the internet.

 

I know what Sam's credentials are. I've read his posts on the forums and where he comes from. I was referring to the post that Omcar made without any supporting evidence to justify his claim. Did he buy from him, call and chat with him, etc? That's why I said what I said.

 

What more would you like me to say? It's hard to disprove a negative, so you can say despite my record or long line of very happy customers that I'm just winging it and I really don't know how to respond except for continuing to offer the support and advice that makes those others happy.

Overboost hasn't to my knowledge ever spoken to me, maybe he should before writing me off.

 

Once again, you jumped ahead, I never "wrote you off". If you read my post that you quoted, I actually did quite the opposite.

 

I suppose I, like Eric N. misunderstood what you were getting at... I guess I still kind of do. When someone says "call Sam" and the response is "why do you say that" I guess it just seems as though you have some disagreement with the recommendation.

 

No, I have no disagreement with the recommendation, but I have a hard time with people who make useless posts such as Omcar's. Had he said "Go to Sam, because of ________________", I wouldn't have said a thing. Most everyone who's made recommendations has followed it up with a reason for it. His did not.

Clear now, or am I going to get crucified some more?

 

Jesus.......................now you've been crucified.


Oh, BTW, I don't want the front slammed down. Could just lowering the ***-end get rid of wheel hop (or pencil walk) ?

 

Wow. How do you type with the damage the nails have done to your wrists? Nobody was crucifying you. Clearly more than one of us misunderstood your meaning, which I think was very easily done. And fwiw, I like information too, but on the other hand I've seen folks recommend someone call me with a lot of detail and get bashed for being some kind of groupie of mine or something. I guess it's tough to please everyone.

Lowering the car tends to kill most if not all the wheelhop. You might lose a little traction, not so much much that you'd really notice anywhere but the drag strip. And frankly a car that does not hop won't break things, and can leave more consistently than one that does wheelhop. So, what to do depends on what you expect. I'd not rule out another set of LCA's.

I'd be happy to talk options with you if you like.

 

How much would you need to drop the rear to level the car out? I don't like the 'in heat' look of the rear being higher than the front. If dropping the rear would mitigate wheel hop, then 'bonus!'.

What springs would do it??

Would that change caster enough to worry about it? (for just a street driver)

 

I'm not exactly sure how much the back end needs to be dropped to level it out, but most lowering springs bring it down farther than the front to lessen the "raked" stance the car has on stock springs.

 

I primarily use a particular version of Steeda Sport springs. If you follow this link http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...205&ModelID=35 you'll see 4 pictures of cars on those springs, two '11's, two older cars.... you'll see they all sit very much the same, and pretty well level.

Also those springs are very well balanced and are pretty much the best riding lowering springs I've come across too.

Caster is a non-issue. Camber will change and it's not unwise to do something to give you some adjustability so you can change it as needed.

 

Sam, any particular reason why you use the Steeda over the FRPP 1" springs?

 

A number of them.... More consistent drop in heights, lighter weight, and I like the spring rates better. I do think the 1" FRPP springs are better than the older, lower version because at least it helps with working travel. However, if they knew it was better why not start there? Because the are done more for looks than performance...

That's not to say that I like every Steeda part--I don't. I'm independent, and I'm not married to any one company and refuse to use a part simply because it's a name I "know". I want what I want, and if I have to get it other places I will. I've had great and terrible things come from the same companies... so I test, and test, and test as much as I possibly can. I drive a lot of cars, I'm always making notes.

I just like the one version of the Steeda Sport springs the best for the combination of handling balance, ride quality, and balance and that's my recommendation 99% of the time.