Haven't seen any real mention of changing the LCAs to eliminate wheel hop. Anyone out there (besides Shaun) changed their LCAs, and if so, what did you use?

 

I like the ones from J&M, he uses a unique bushing in the front of the arms. It is a 3 piece urethane bushing that has a center bushing that is round and fits into cupped bushings on either side, this allows it to act sort of like a spherical rod end so that some rotation can occur keeping it from binding up in the turns but still providing control under acceleration. And the price is right.

http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...duct_list&c=69

 

I had the Steeda billet LCA's on my previous Mustang and was very happy with them. I haven't put any on this car yet, but I'm going to need a set cause this thing hops like a bunny. I like the design of the J&M pieces, but I'll probably go with the Steeda pieces once again.

 

I have and like the J&M ones too. They work and don't put any more binding on the arms when cornering or hittin bumps the the stock ones.

 

How much of an increase in NVH with the J&M LCA's?

 

None that I would pin point to the J&M LCAs. I have a host of things changed urethane engine mounts, panhard rod, UCA, exhaust, shifter, 20" wheels all these things can add a bit of noise. The car is still very smooth and not loud at all just a bit more tight and mechanical feeling less rubbery.

 

I replaced my stock LCAs with Steeda chrome-molys. Wheel hop is still pretty bad and there was quite a bit of an NVH increase. I hear everything from the rear end now.

 

You might want to try relocation brackets. I had them on my previous S197, and coupled with the LCA's, that car hooked.

 

That's what I was thinking. They are on my "to do" list.

 

Lowers don't fix wheel hop, the upper does.
The 2011 has a longer upper control arm to try and help with wheel hop. To get rid of it, add a Metco heavy duty upper control arm mount and adjustable upper control arm.
Adding the lowers is a good thing to do and the relocation brackets will help you get more bite.
I 60' in the 1.63 range with this set up.

Thanks
Jay

 

Hmm. Wouldn't a beefier lower arm with a stiffer shocks and springs alleviate it as well?

 

That's what everyone says... LCAs will help reduce or eliminate the hop. Hell, that's what all the marketing materials say too. I suppose an adjustable upper is not a bad idea, but I will be very annoyed if I can't get rid of it.

Given my experience at the track last weekend it appears as if my LCAs did absolutely nothing.

 

There was this thread out there- may serve to be informative...
https://themustangsource.com/f726/wh...around-486978/

 

My setup also had lowering springs, but I can't really comment on how much of a difference those made.

 

I think I'm gonna go with the FR500C LCA's with poly bushings:

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10918

 

Don't do that... Can save you a butt load of $. Check these UMI's out: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=99&ModelID=5

Notice that they are pretty much exactly the same (though you can get them in red or black, your choice) for $104.99... and they have zerks so you can grease them too.

 

Sam, you're going to put all other suspension-related businesses..out of business!

I can't wait to get some money put together to browse your site..hop off the line in 1st and 2nd is killing me!

 

I wish I had gone with those UMIs. They would have saved me a good bit of cash considering the Steeda LCAs didn't do what I was hoping they'd do. Haha.

 

do some of the LCA's transmit extra noise, like how do the UMI's fair in that category.

How about the upper mount and upper arm from Metco, more noise also?

Does more noise also come from being lowered and using an aftermarket lower and upper.

I know these are general questions and other mods may increase noise but say if the Metco upper and UMI lowers were installed on a stock suspension car would they make more noise?

 

All aftermarket control arms run the risk of more noise. Two reasons for this.

1. Stock arms are designed to keep NVH at a minimum, hence soft, compliant rubber bushings and stamped pieces

2. Aftermarket parts use some sort of tube which is stronger, but transmits harmonics more effectively. And they use bushings or rod-ends, or other types of "bushings" that aren't as soft or compliant.

I'm not out to put other folks out of business, and I doubt I can do that anyway (I'm just a small company, pretty much me and my family helping at times).

Take a tubular LCA with urethane bushings. One is pretty much going to make as much "noise" as another... this is why the stock PHB from Ford has the shot in it--to help kill NVH in a tubular part.