Least expensive brake upgrade for 2011 GT (Non-Brembo)
#1
Least expensive brake upgrade for 2011 GT (Non-Brembo)
I want better brake feel but I don't want to spend a fortune. I think maybe new pads and a change of fluid would be the most bang for my buck for better brake feel and performance. What are your thoughts? Has anyone out there gone this route yet?
#2
GTR Member
Plenty of performance pad options out there.
What brake fluid would you think about changing to?
I'm sure it has DOT4 in it already and you sure don't want to go with silicone.
What brake fluid would you think about changing to?
I'm sure it has DOT4 in it already and you sure don't want to go with silicone.
#3
Shelby GT350 Member
Pads are certainly the best bet. The cars stops well, even without the Brembos. I would say upgrade to new rotors but I haven't seen a proven case yet. Some 2 piece are lighter in weight but unsure if it's worth the money on a more normal car.
#4
Legacy TMS Member
Change the brake lines to stainless steel, and it will improve the ability to modulate the brakes.
Regarding pad changes, some pads will generate more brake dust and noise than others. So depending on your intended use, you might want to consider something that is more street-oriented rather than race.
Regarding pad changes, some pads will generate more brake dust and noise than others. So depending on your intended use, you might want to consider something that is more street-oriented rather than race.
#5
Change the brake lines to stainless steel, and it will improve the ability to modulate the brakes.
Regarding pad changes, some pads will generate more brake dust and noise than others. So depending on your intended use, you might want to consider something that is more street-oriented rather than race.
Regarding pad changes, some pads will generate more brake dust and noise than others. So depending on your intended use, you might want to consider something that is more street-oriented rather than race.
#6
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pads, lines, fluid.
Pads are what clamp the rotors, they work like clutches--just like not all clutches are the same, pad compounds differ too. Some have more bite, some have different torque curves, etc. I carry a number of different pads, but most commonly use Hawk HPS for street cars, but that also depends on what kind of power you are after. There are stronger pads with trade-offs.
Lines. One of the things the Boss will be getting are different, firmer, brake lines. A set of Stainless Steel lines (I carry Goodridge and Steeda) means more of the hydraulic pressure gets to the calipers and less is lost through brake line flex. Not that it's a HUGE thing, but it does happen.
Fluid. The DOT rating of the fluid does not make a fluid good.... For feel, you want low compressibility. Again it's a hydraulic fluid and you are transferring force through it to the calipers. I sell a lot ATE Super Blue and Type 200 fluids, but my preference personally is Brembo LCF-600. Best pedal feel I've ever had, and it's a high temp fluid too--both dry and wet boiling points.
Pads are what clamp the rotors, they work like clutches--just like not all clutches are the same, pad compounds differ too. Some have more bite, some have different torque curves, etc. I carry a number of different pads, but most commonly use Hawk HPS for street cars, but that also depends on what kind of power you are after. There are stronger pads with trade-offs.
Lines. One of the things the Boss will be getting are different, firmer, brake lines. A set of Stainless Steel lines (I carry Goodridge and Steeda) means more of the hydraulic pressure gets to the calipers and less is lost through brake line flex. Not that it's a HUGE thing, but it does happen.
Fluid. The DOT rating of the fluid does not make a fluid good.... For feel, you want low compressibility. Again it's a hydraulic fluid and you are transferring force through it to the calipers. I sell a lot ATE Super Blue and Type 200 fluids, but my preference personally is Brembo LCF-600. Best pedal feel I've ever had, and it's a high temp fluid too--both dry and wet boiling points.
#7
Sam,
On a street car, would you recommend the Brembo fluid over the Super Blue? I've never used Brembo, but man, Super Blue in an S2000 was like hitting a brick wall when you slam the brakes, every single time.
On a street car, would you recommend the Brembo fluid over the Super Blue? I've never used Brembo, but man, Super Blue in an S2000 was like hitting a brick wall when you slam the brakes, every single time.
#8
Legacy TMS Member
And Sam, would you comment on the effects of using a high-temperature fluid in a street car in terms of corrosion and moisture absorption? Thanks!
#9
Legacy TMS Member
For reference, on my street-driven, occasionally autocrossed '03 Mach 1, I have the stock Brembo rotors and PBR calipers, Hawk Street Performance pads, stainless-steel brake lines, and standard DOT 4 fluid. I noticed a big improvement in the feel and reduction in the time from brake pedal push to clamping. However, I have not measured the improvement, nor have I run at higher speeds on a race track over a weekend. I do have occasionally brake squeal when the brakes are cool and not warmed up.
#10
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use the Brembo stuff on the street. You see the difference when you pour it... it's more viscous vs. most fluids that are lighter and pour more like water. I use a lot of ATE, did for years in my own stuff. Still do in my winter beater and other cars I don't expect the same level of performance from.
Brembo fluid isn't a million bucks. It's $19.99 a half-liter. ATE is $12.25-14.50 per liter.... I carry both (and others for that matter).
#11
Interesting. I'll probably pick up some from you when I get around to changing my pads, which, should actually be shortly. I'm really not happy with the stock pads, they've squeeled worse than any track-worthy pad I've had in the past. Even after bedding when they were new, they still squeel like crazy on slow-rolling stops.
After 11,000 miles, I'm probably close to needing new ones anyhow, might as well step up to some higher quality while I'm at it.
After 11,000 miles, I'm probably close to needing new ones anyhow, might as well step up to some higher quality while I'm at it.
#12
Bullitt Member
Join Date: May 2, 2010
Location: Los Angeles,CA
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good info and a timely thread
I'm also considering a brake upgrade and although I like the Brembo's they limit your in choice of wheels especially 18"
I'll most likely go with the Hawk HPS pads and SS lines and the brembo fluid
when I do my upgrade.
I'm also considering a brake upgrade and although I like the Brembo's they limit your in choice of wheels especially 18"
I'll most likely go with the Hawk HPS pads and SS lines and the brembo fluid
when I do my upgrade.
Last edited by zilla8; 11/28/10 at 05:56 AM.
#13
Legacy TMS Member
Interesting. I'll probably pick up some from you when I get around to changing my pads, which, should actually be shortly. I'm really not happy with the stock pads, they've squeeled worse than any track-worthy pad I've had in the past. Even after bedding when they were new, they still squeel like crazy on slow-rolling stops.
On my 2007 GT (which I suspect had different pads as compared to the 2011 GT), I had over 49000 miles and still had usable material on the fronts and rears. My car was a daily driver that did not see any track time, however.
#14
Bullitt Member
Join Date: September 28, 2007
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great thread. I'm impressed w/the non brembo brakes to the point that i'll probably just upgrade the pads & fluid for now. Would love to find cost efficient cross drilled rotors for the front eventually, though.
#15
I had them check it out during an oil change, and they said "all's normal" and even charged me $19.99 for the inspection. As far as I knew, brakes were covered until 12month/12,000miles
#16
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know a lot of "high end" cars come with drilled brakes. But those brakes aren't exactly your run of the mill cast rotors--and you'll also see racing versions of those same cars do NOT use drilled rotors. FWIW I also saw the other day that a $400k Ferrari 599GTB with a $31k HGTE handling kit doesn't have cruise control!!!!!!
#19
GT Member
Join Date: July 20, 2010
Location: Malmstrom AFB
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm glad I found this thread. I absolutely cooked my brakes on Laguna and they have no been the same sense. I already need pads, rotors, and lines for sure, I just haven't been sure what to get.
For those of you without the Brembo's, take my word for it, the car is too fast for the brakes on a track. Hopefully pads and fluid can fix the fade until I get bigger wheels and move up to a big brake kit.
For those of you without the Brembo's, take my word for it, the car is too fast for the brakes on a track. Hopefully pads and fluid can fix the fade until I get bigger wheels and move up to a big brake kit.
#20
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: October 28, 2008
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car is too fast for Brembo's too.... with stock pads on it.
You cooked the pads more than anything, street pads aren't up to track work. The stock brakes aren't bad. Sure Brembo's are better, but like I said you can cook those too on a track.
I carry big brake kits of various types.... I'd recommend starting with some track only pads. I like a Hawk DTC60/HT10 or DTC70/DTC60 setup for track work, and then get some good street pads since you fried yours. I'd recommend a set of Hawk HPS. Add good lines if you want, and upgrade that fluid and you'll be surprised how well the stock brakes can work on track days.
You cooked the pads more than anything, street pads aren't up to track work. The stock brakes aren't bad. Sure Brembo's are better, but like I said you can cook those too on a track.
I carry big brake kits of various types.... I'd recommend starting with some track only pads. I like a Hawk DTC60/HT10 or DTC70/DTC60 setup for track work, and then get some good street pads since you fried yours. I'd recommend a set of Hawk HPS. Add good lines if you want, and upgrade that fluid and you'll be surprised how well the stock brakes can work on track days.