I m thinking of pulling the trigger on these parts very soon, will I feel a significant difference in acceleration with less wheel hop and tire spin? I have a 12' GT A6 with C&L cai and 93 perfect tune, along with some GT500 ABs.

 

What exactly are you looking at?...Links? Why are you replacing the differential already? Gears will help with acceleration. But none of that has anything to do with wheel hop and tire spin...

 

Lower gears will only make the tire spin worse by multiplying the torque even more. Stickier tires and/or suspension mods are about the only ways to gain more traction. Wheel hop can be solved by different suspension pieces. Each car reacts differently though.

With the stock 3:15's mine won't hook for anything. Just endless wheelspin. I'll add drag radials & wheels if I want to try hooking at the track or on the street.

 

What I want is more acceleration and better traction without drag radials or slicks. So if gears help for acceleration, what does the limited slip do? I was going to just get gears but I was told that I needed all these installation kits along with gears. So a friend suggested just getting the gears, FRPP limited slip, rear differential gasket, and royal purple gear oil kit. So what do I exactly need for a gear swap, and what suggestions do you have for less tire spin? I dont want to cut any corners on the gear swap, but I dont want to get anything I really dont need or could do without.

Yes, I know.....Noob! lol
I never worried about any of these things with my 04' v6, but because I just wanted it to look nice and sound better. No offense to v6 owners who do mod, especially if you have the new 3.7, thats a whole different breed of pony .

 

The LSD will give you better traction, the gears will give you better acceleration, a LCA relocation kit will fix the wheel hop.

 

Now on the LCAs, do I need LCAs and a relocation kit, or just one or the other?
Also, besides the LSD and gears, what else would I need for the installation?

 

Probably just the kit, still have to do mine but will prolly do the LCAs at the same time. Never done a gear swap but Im told you want the rebuild kit.

 

So you're getting tire spin with the stock 3.15's and now you want to drop in some 4.10's? I would strongly reconsider this. Relocation brackets are needed when you lower the car to correct the angle of the lower control arms. They will not fix any wheel hop. What you need is lower control arms and their better bushings.

 

Actually 3.73s, but yes I want more acceleration and less wheel hop/tire spin. So I guess it ll have to be gears and LCAs, possibly a LSD as well.

 

If you want to get rid of the wheel hop you will have to do the UCA, not the lowers.You can also add the LCA for better traction and to stiffen that part of the suspension up,but just lca will just help the hop,not get rid of it.Best bet is to do a UCA and LCA combo.I want to go with the Rousch anti wheel hop kit along with Steeda billet lca,s.The Rousch is a 3rd link replacement with no added NVH.(noise,vibration,harshness).

 

Well you do know with gears you'll need a tune correct? I'd skip the gears and get the tune. You might find you'll like the stock gears.

 

I actually have a C&L Performance Custom Tune......so its just a matter of calling Doug for a revision .

 

Steeda 93 tune here and 3.15's are more than enough. I've never had a single issue with wheel hop. That always seemed to be prevalent with the manuals not autos.

 

Yea the wheel hop seems to be an issue with the manuals not the autos. And I have a VMP tune and with my 3.15's and street tires it will just roast the tires until I get out of it.

 

So I shouldn't get gears and just get LCAs? I feel more unsure than I initially was :S. Maybe I should just get some exterior mods.

 

I guess I should clarify my first post a little...

Still confused why you want a new LSD? Unlike your old V6, your GT already puts power down to both wheels.

Gears will help with acceleration, assuming you can get traction to begin with. To my knowledge, you just need a "rebuild kit" for installation.

You need to work on suspension (wheel hop) and tires (traction) before anything else, if those are the problems you're looking to fix.

 

I guess thats why AM builds always go with getting the power down to the wheels in 2nd stages. Thanks for the info btw.

 

Greg, your '12 GT came from the factory with a Limited Slip Differential. You can change just the gears if you want a different ratio (plus a pinion bearing and basic install kit). The 5.0L automatics work well with 4.10 gears, but an aftermarket stall converter is a great way to to quicken the car dramatically without having to put steeper gears in the car. Or, do both.

Adjustable upper and lower control arms will work wonders on the wheel hop if you set the pinion angle correctly. Stickier tires are always a wise investment.

 

I know that there are other parts out there that when paired together with these, will give me better traction and acceleration, but like most people here, I m on a budget, so this is what I can do for now.

Is this all I need? I know I need RP gear oil, but dont know which weight and how many. The other thing is the famous gear question, 3.73 or 4.10? From what I have read, the new 6 speed auto transmissions allow 4.10s to be more doable for DD mustangs. I do travel about 25 miles both ways, 5 days a week with a 50/50 of city and highway, mostly under 65 mph. Would you suggest going for the 4.10s or am I m going to feel a noticable dent in my wallet due to mpgs, and wish I had just gone with the 3.73s?

 

4.10's sound great for the driving you've described. You have a steep overdrive, so revs on the highway won't go up much, and the car will feel awesome when you mash the loud pedal!!!