Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger Kit
 

I searched for this and only found a 4 year old thread when these came out, has anyone here actually installed one of Edelbrocks E-Force Supercharger kits on their 5.0 and can comment on how happy they are with it, share any dyno numbers, etc.? I was really interested in these when they came out since they have a super straight forward install and factory clean look when you're done, but I've read that heat can be an issue since these are sitting right on top of the motor and suffer significant HP loss when the engine is hot? Any experiences anyone can share?

Thanks, Jim

I have one and like it. I'm in Cali and I needed a safe, smog compliant SC. I wasn't looking for crazy HP. I have the the stage one with a Brenspeed tune. It runs great. We have 100 deg.+ days here occasionally, I can't feel a difference in power, and the engine stays cool.

The hard core guys don't like 'em 'cause you can't pump 'em up to crazy numbers and they're ugly. That's what you get with an inverted SC. The pretty part is inside the engine.

http://i62.tinypic.com/2i96s8k.jpg

Maybe its me but I don't think they're ugly at all. To me they look like the car could have come that way which I actually like! I'm not looking for max HP either since mine's a convertible and at least so far I haven't added a roll bar. So I'm limited to spirited street driving and the occasional autocross which is OK. For me its going to come down to either to the Eforce or something similar vs. a Hellion dual turbo setups. Both look to be super clean installs, with the turbos costing a bit more but probably adding another 50 or so HP over the supercharger with stock pulley. Thanks for the feedback its appreciated!

Jim

that kind of looks somewhat similar to the dodge hellcat supercharger.
How many PSI does the E Force produce?

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...0&mode=overlay

I think it's 5 lbs with the stock Edelbrock configuration. Not sure what the Stage 1 puts out.
http://tinyurl.com/pnvj7ck

You can buy a 3.5 or 3.0 pulley to bump it up. You'll have to use the competition intake though.

I figured Tommy was going to chime in right away, and he did :) I like his car and his setup.

Jim, that being said, looks like ease of installation and stock look is what you're looking for and some of your MIR's.

I have my Magnuson set up and really like it. Did the install all myself with no cutting or grinding of any sort. Stock pulley was 3.9", 5.5 lbs of boost, and I was at 520whp with a JDM Engineering tune (link to dyno chart on my sig below). I have since upgraded to NGK plugs, 3.6 pulley, at 9 lbs of boost, with a new JDM tune, and am at 545whp. I plan to add a CFM intake, LTH, and hi flow cats soon, so I expect to be at 575whp.

http://s20.postimg.org/tr7ouyq99/DSC_0302.jpg

Looks amazing. I love how it looks being all stock and such. :heh:

Many thanks Bill! I need to do a better job at detailing the engine compartment though. I just don't have the time and tools, like I used to. I focus more so on the exterior... :dunno:

I plan on putting the Stage 2 Edelbrock kit in this spring. I will let you know how it goes. I don't have a ton of experience working on cars but the installation looks pretty straight forward. I plan on getting the kit from Brenspeed and it should be in the 533 rwhp range until I can drop headers on.

I plan on doing the billet oil pump gears at the same time since I will have easy access to the timing cover with everything off.

Very cool, post some pics.

The E-Force, or any blower for that matter won't make more power than any other when you're playing with pump gas. Ignore the manufacturer claims. If the blower is sized correctly (they all are) you will run out of octane long before you run out of blower.

The E Force doesn't make one more FT LB of TQ than any of the other PD blowers. The long runner deal is a gimmick.

If in the future you want to "grow" the E Force is not the way to go. It's inlet restricted and will not put down big numbers like the other 2.3L blowers will.

The E Force also has a underwhelming intercooler. Which is the biggest problem. All the blowers make boost, that's easy. The difference is which ones can do it with low intake air temps. High intake air temps kill power, lots of power. It is not uncommon to be down 50-75hp from what it ran on the dyno.

Read this:

http://departmentofboost.com/tech_in...e_boosting.htm

Like I said previously, the E Force is for someone that wants a safe, reliable, smog legal, SC. It also comes with a three year engine warranty. If you want to make big numbers, look elsewhere.

I don't believe a 110 Sq-inch intercooler is underwhelming. It was 103 deg. here yesterday and my car pulled as strong as ever.

Please feel free to back up any of the hate you are spewing against my poor little E Force.

Tommy, no worries, I'm in the same boat as you. I chose magnuson for precisely the same reasons as you. Safe, reliable, drivable, easy to install, 2.3L PD, BOOST. My restriction was also the inlet and intercooler. Same thing. I am making 550whp currently and will be making around 580whp reliably. I'm done after that. I'm totally ok with it. I'll have to switch blowers and modify engine internals if I want more than that. My current plan is to keep Marilyn reliable forever then just buy a Shelby to go along with her. That one will be getting big power.

Most other IC's are double that size.

Facts are not hate.

Although intercooler size is a consideration, aren't intercoolers rated by effectiveness and flow and not by size? Do you have any info that the Edelbrock IC is any less efficient than its competition or that it causes the inlet temperature to be excessive?

Bottom line: If you are happy with the performance, it does not matter if another brand is more efficient or makes more HP.

Yes, or I wouldn't have posted my thoughts.

The OP can't be "happy with the performance" because he doesn't have a blower yet. The OP is here looking for advice on a VERY EXPENSIVE purchase. And he is getting good informed information.

True, but the one person who has one in this thread is happy with it. Hopefully the OP will be happy with whatever he chooses. Me, I'm a centrifugal fan :D

I'm really not trying to come off as argumentative here. Only pointing out things that I see in the market place and some issues with how decisions are made.

I have no doubt that the guy with the Eforce is happy with it. I should hope he is. A blower, any blower will make one happier. Even the worst blowers are a huge jump from NA.

A subject that I don't see addressed is what is "I'm happy with my blower" guy/girl (this could be anyone) comparing it to? If they are comparing it to NA well, they ought to be happy. Their car has a whole lot more power than before. Big smiles all the way around.:D The problem that arises is are they able to compare that to another blower? The answer to that is most of the time no. Not very many people have experience with multiple blowers. So really they only know if they are happy in comparison to NA, not if they are happy compared to what they should be comparing to, other blowers. On a basic level they are basing their happiness on a sample size of one. That's like getting married to the first girl you ever met.:D

Another issue is that most people don't know how to benchmark their blowers performance. Intake air temps (IAT) is a fine example of that. Most people don't know what their IAT's are. And most of the ones that do only know what they were on the dyno, which is nowhere near real life. It is very uncommon for the blower crowd to data log their IAT's while driving or have a gauge that reads out on the dash. Or even know what the numbers mean. And that is a problem because IAT's are the NUMBER ONE FACTOR in a blowers performance. Most people don't realize that they are driving around down on power due to high IAT's all the time. Lots of power.

Taking into consideration that most people have experience with only one blower and have no idea how it is actually performing (IAT's) it's hard to take "I like my blower" as a reliable review.

And lastly not very many people will say out loud or even admit to themselves that they made a large purchasing mistake.

I know all about this through expirience. I thought my first blower was the greatest thing in the world. I thought my second blower was pretty good. By the time I got to my 3rd, 4th, 5th blower and played with a lot more on friends cars did I start to realize that my first two blowers were GARBAGE. I'm simply trying to give the best advice I can based on a lot of experience so maybe I can help someone from making the same $6000+ mistakes that I did.

[QUOTE=sqidd;6949719]Yes, or I wouldn't have posted my thoughts./QUOTE]

Can you be more specific? I've been considering this mod for some time and it would be helpful to see some numbers. Edelbrock has been making induction systems since before the majority of the people in this forum were born so I assume they know what they're doing. I would think that their intercooler is designed to provide the temps necessary to meet its rated power at relatively low boost. Maybe another intercooler is necessary if you're making crazy power but that's a different issue. I'm not pushing Edelbrock, I'm just looking for information that will be helpful in my decision when/if I decide to go forced induction.

I don't take anything you point out as argumentative. You make a good point on IATs. Provided the track apps temp is accurate, I saw a drop in IATs after installing the ProCharger, in spite of the air filter being right above the driver's side header. I attribute this to the intercooler. However, all of that heat dissipated by the intercooler heats up the air passing through the AC condenser and radiator. I have noticed in city traffic, the AC isn't quite as cool as it once was (still cools well enough, but I noticed the difference), and CHTs are 10-15 degrees higher as well.

I always watch the temps on my car. No hard driving until the oil and transmission temps are up in the normal range.

Something I discovered recently and was always interested in:

IAT's as they are sampled on Centri blowers is a little mis-understood.....and can't be compared to positive displacement blowers (PD) because they are not apples to apples.

Centri blowers continue to use the IAT sensor in the MAF. This doesn't give a true IAT reading because the MAF is so far up stream of the runner right before the intake port (head). What you see with the Centri car is the IAT before it has had a chance to heat up from traveling through all of the piping, tubing, runners, etc it goes through before it goes into the cylinder. And it picks up quite a bit more heat that you would think. Only recently was I able to verify this when someone I know put a second IAT sensor in their intake runner right before the intake port. Under normal driving their IAT2 (right before intake port) was 30deg higher than their IAT1 (in the MAF). Most people don't ever see a IAT2 on a Centri car.

Now of course that 30deg delta will change under boost-WOT because the volume of air increases dramatically, there is boost (heat) and all sorts of other variables. The problem is I don't have that information because this guy is spraying meth at WOT which makes all that data useless. But despite not having WOT data I thought it was eye opening that the IAT's are not really the IAT's.

Because of the Centri blowers IAT sensor location they can't be compared with PD blowers which have the sensors right before the intake port apples to apples.

The MAF in my setup is mounted right at the intercooler exit - about 12-18 inches prior to the throttle body, which is about the same distance it was in the stock configuration.


I went centri because I felt I didn't really need gobs more torque off the line in a car that can roast the rear tires in stock form. Of course with the i-1, I can select a mode that allows the CVT to build boost off the line.

[QUOTE=Len;6949763]I'm sorry but I can't. All the data I have collected over the years is for my use. It is not cataloged, collated, sorted and organized into a presentation for mass consumption. You can either take my word for it, or not. It really is no skin off my back, I'm just trying to help by getting the real on the ground information out there.

You're assumptions are wrong if you look at the goal. And the goal is to keep IAT's down to a point where the ECU doesn't pull ignition timing.....ever. The Eforce (and a lot of other blowers) do not have IC systems designed correctly to reach this goal. Even at low boost/low HP numbers (your standard kits). The dirty little secret in the forced induction industry is IAT's and how most kits do not control them correctly. That is because it costs money to solve that problem. Your dyno numbers will look good because it is a lot easier to keep IAT's down on the dyno, but in real life most blowers are running around pulling timing all over the place.

Bottom line, there is no out of the box blower kit that will keep IAT's down to the point that the ECU won't pull timing. Some are better/worse than others. Some can be fixed with a big heat exchanger and good water pump because the IC design will support it. Some not so much. The Eforce falls into the "not so much" group.

When I got into PD blowers I made the same assumption you did. It's intercooled right? That solves that right? Why would they make something that didn't get the job done? It's reasonable to think that, but it's not representative of reality.

I've worked on getting every IC out there to work correctly. With a few mods and a few supporting components I have been able to get most of them working much better (not perfect though).......Except the Eforce and Kenne Bell. No matter what you throw at them, and that is up to and including custom machined parts and welding, they just don't perform.

At the end of the day if you have a choice between 4 blower kits that all have the same screws (TVS2300) you want the one with the best intercooler. Most people buy their blowers based solely on the brand of the head unit (the blower). That is a mistake. As long as the head unit is sized correctly for the HP goal and not a junk design (which is rare) it doesn't matter what you use. What really matters is how cool you can keep the intake charge and that is down to the intercooler design. These should be the priorities when choosing a blower, in order:

1.) Intercooler performance.

2.) Head unit (blower) is sized correctly for the goal.

3.) Head unit is properly designed with a large enough inlet to support it's capacity.

4.) Drive belt system design (there are a few horrible ones out there).

You can have the biggest baddest blower with the shiniest features known to man but if you put it on top of a junk intercooler you will get crap results, it's as simple as that.

You can't upgrade intercoolers in PD blowers (you can sometimes tweak them a little, but there are no upgrades). What you have the day you buy it is what you have forever. That is why getting the right one from the start is so important.

The problem with the information you seek is that there isn't very much out there. For example, until I posted you didn't know that all blower kits have intake air temp issues. That's a HUGE deal that most people don't find out till after they have made their purchase, installed it and have been driving around for a while.

"Why does my car feel slower after a couple of minutes of driving?"

It's because the IC system isn't keeping up and the ECU is pulling timing. I'm not at all exaggerating when I say that your average 550hp blown Coyote is driving around down 50-75hp pretty much all the time. The dyno graph says one thing, reality is different.

I would say 90% of blower owners don't understand how bad high IAT's hurt power. The same 90% doesn't even know what their IAT's are (and if they did, what they mean). I can't count how many people I have told to sample their IAT's (through a gauge or data logging) and see where they are running compared to where the ECU starts to pull ignition timing (usually 135deg). Every single one of them was absolutely shocked when they realized they were down on power almost all the time.

I have never ever seen a out of the box blower kit that didn't pull timing a lot. Some worse than others. Some can be fixed, some cant.

So sqidd... just curious, what are your thoughts on the Magnuson blowers/intercoolers? Don't worry, you won't hurt my feelings ;) I have the TVS2300 and their stock intercooler and am very happy with it. I'm running a diff't tune, plus a 3.6 pulley for ~9lbs of boost. Your thoughts on their kit in general? I'm pretty happy with it. I guess maybe the intercooler is not as good as it should be and maybe my car pulls timing frequently, I dunno. Either way, for the street where I drive 100% of the time (no track, racing, etc), it never feels slow or slowing down :)

Holy crap. This turned out to be a great discussion.

Sqidd, thanks for sharing your insights!

After reading through the posts, I feel like I have a new perspective on superchargers but which off the shelf kit has the best intercooling capability for a stock motor...with a bit of head room (if one wants to build a motor down the road)?

I'd say the Department of Boost's setup has the best liquid to air intercooler. Their website has a lot of info.

I'm 100% aware of that. That location is not representing the true IAT though.

The stock location was chosen by Ford because the car was NA as designed and the IAT's aren't nearly as critical. The GT500's have two IAT sensors. One in the MAF and the other in the intake, after the IC and right before the intake port. They did this because they need a more accurate/representative IAT reading when dealing with boost. And obviously because it needed to be post IC.

My core point though was that PD IAT readings can't be compared to Centri IAT readings because they are not taken in the same place in the system. I'm not trying to infer anything, only point out a fact that I had suspected for a long time but was only recently able to verify.

Hands down the Department Of Boost GT550-S197. It's light-years ahead of anything else.

I don't have any need for more power in my car, but I've always been attracted to the DOB offerings, and now if I ever move out of this godforsaken state to a place where I can actually let my car stretch its legs, the DOB kit would be going on my car. I love the OEM looks and overbuilt foundation to keep the car operating at its best. No fluff, no pipe dream dyno numbers. I would love to have this kit now, but again a) don't need it to drive in stop and go everywhere in the SF Bay Area, and b) don't have the money right now haha.

Sqidd... please see my post and inquiry above. Thanks.

Sorry, blew past that.

The Magnuson is a good blower design. I like front entry stuff. If shooting for max power levels (which involves forging the motor and putting a big fuel system in it, which most don't do) the inlet is going to be restrictive. But in the 550-600hp range it's no big deal. I wouldn't call it a "max effort" blower. But most people don't go max effort so that's not a knock.

The IC is pretty weenie unfortunately. I would rank it with the Eforce. If you stuff enough water though it with a good pump it can perform "average" with lower boost numbers (9-10psi). Repeated runs, hot days, etc will have it pulling timing a lot. I haven't messed with the Maggie stuff but I have talked with a few guys at the drag strip and keeping them cool was a big deal.

If I had one I would put the best pump possible on, the biggest HE I could stuff in there, keep the boost as low as possible and go have fun. Is it as good as can be? No. Is it a complete disaster? No, it's not that either. If I had a choice between a Maggie and something else? I would go another direction.

thanks for your input sqidd... that's what I was looking for. I 100% agree that with a Maggie blower, you're not going to get big power. The limit will be about 600ishwhp. I chose it for ease of install really, and I got a really good deal with it too. I didn't want to grind the timing cover with the other kits. Now as far as being "only" limited to 600ishwhp, I was also ok with that because, I was never going to push it beyond 600 anyways, because that's the limit (around there) for the stock Coyote block/internals anyways right? So... given that argument, going with the Maggie was ok, as long as it met other criteria which I needed.

That being said, if I could do it over again? Knowing what I know now (I'd like to think I got smarter over the course of 2 or more years...lol), I'd probably have gone with a Roush or VMP blower, or maybe a Whipple.

I just got done testing my new tune with larger CFM intake out, and I should be at 575whp right now. The new tune has really woken my set up. For drivability, the Maggie is great. I love the set up now. I can't wait till I get my Kooks headers and cats on.

550-600hp is a LOT. The internet and inflated HP claims really have skewed reality. That is a LOT of power. There are not many cars on the planet running around at that level. And considering you can do it and keep the car 100% street-able is amazing. My blown Yote makes 550 and I love it to death. I drive it just like it came from Ford that way. Put gas in, change the oil and just enjoy it. Are there faster cars out there? Sure, will you ever run into one? Unlikely. And if you do, who cares really.

I have a 1050hp car too. I hardly ever drive it.:doh: It has a ton of $$ and work in it. And really not very fun to drive aside from the quick blast to get the adrenaline going or give someone a ride. You certainly don't want to go anywhere in it. There is the flip side of big power.:(

Yep, pretty much.

Good kits. The Department Of Boost GT550-S197 is a real contender too. It's got the best intercooler in the industry by a large margin and is very flexible as far as what can be run for head units. It's something that can be gotten into for thousands less than other kits and still makes 550-600hp. And in the future can support up to 1400hp by using different blowers.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Maggie (a few others are like this) is the blower bet arrangement. To save money they used the "front" belt. This is a bad move on the Yote. That front tensioner is nowhere near up to the task of controlling a supercharger. The tensioner won't bend because it's so short. But on the flip side it is so short and has so little travel it's bouncing off the stops every time you shift. Which is no good for the crankshaft, oil pump, #1 main bearing and all of the idler/accessory bearings. Check this write up out. It gives an outline of how tensioners are supposed to work.

Scroll past the stuff for the Frankentensioner to the tech section:

http://departmentofboost.com/product...ntensioner.htm

Sqidd, you seem like a very knowledgeable person, but again, if you can post a link to an article, or video, that shows the Edelborck ic is inefficient, please do.

I hope the tensioner on my ProCharger is up to the task since it is a separate belt and tensioner for the unit.

The game is rigged my man. Where do you think something like that would be? The magazines don't do honest reporting anymore. "tech" articles are paid for by the manufacturer. So no facts there. There is no "Mythbusters" or "Consumer Reports" for hot rod parts. So nothing there.

I think he addressed that question earlier. He said his rationale comes from his own personal experience. That being said, I'm not sure what his qualifications are, but it does sound/read like he knows what he's talking about. Perhaps he works for Department of Boost directly? :poke: :D

I still have to read that latest link he provided... I enjoyed reading the other ones.

Well, that's the problem. A lot of guys post replies that this is good and that is crap. When you ask how they know that, no facts, just the Geico "Well everyone knows that."

I can post plenty of articles and videos showing that the Edelbrock's ic is efficient (for that sc) and works as advertised. My IAT's are in the range of other members and on 100+ deg. days I don't notice any power loss.

Until I'm provided with some evidence that proves that the ic is inefficient, I'll believe otherwise.

Also, I'm not sure how an ic would fit that is "double" the size of the Edelbrocks.

http://i62.tinypic.com/108bc0o.jpg

I didn't say "everyone knows that". I said I know. I base my conclusions on thousands of hours of testing/R&D. It's probably a safe bet that I have more knowledge of PD blower A2W IC systems than anyone on the planet.

What are your IAT's on a 100deg day?

That^^^^^ Is not an intercooler.;)

Not trying to be a dick, but HOW do you know? Have you tested one? Have your friends tested one? Has an independent shop tested one?

I haven't recorded my IAT's on 100+ days, but I will the next time we have one.

And yes, that is the ic, or heat ex-changer, or whatever you want to call it.

Telling ya...I think he works for the department of boost. Lol Sqidd, now that the cat is out of the bag, what do you do for a living? I'd like to know where all this in-depth knowledge from you is coming from.

First hand experience.

Yes

Yes

Check it on any day.

The IC goes in the manifold. The HE goes somewhere else. Those are the agreed upon terms in the hot rod community so everyone knows what everyone else is talking about. In the OEM world the HE is called the Low Temp Radiator (LTR). No one call it an IC.

Yes, I am Department Of Boost.;)

My bad, the ic has been referred to a "charge cooler" and the HE has been referred to as a front mounted intercooler, i.e "To install the huge front-mounted intercooler, you’ll need to undo the four bolts that hold the air conditioning condenser to the radiator."

If you have "tested" one, what were the results? Any graphs? Comparisons? Anything other than just your word?

You will have to take my word for it, or not. All I can do is provide people with the facts. What they do with them is their choice. You could for example listen to what I'm saying and ask me for advice on how to get your current IC working at a passable level. And I would advise you on what to do. None of my advice would involve buying something from me. Or you can ignore what I have to say and continue to drive around down on power because of high IAT's.

I am the foremost expert on A2W IC systems for PD blowers probably in the world (which really isn't saying much). It's in your best interest to listen.:)

Ahhhh ok that makes sense now. You are dept of boost!!!

So that being said, how can I further lower my IATs in my current magnuson setup and magnuson HE?

Do you have a pic of the HE you have?

This would be let's call it a Stage I improvement. It will get you very good gains and you may even have a chance of making full 10sec WOT pulls without pulling timing.

This will get you 8.5gpm of water flow. You currently have 5.1gpm. A 40% increase in water flow. This makes a huge difference, especially on an undersized IC like the EForce has.

This may get modded depedning on what HE you have.^^^^^^

-Get a OEM 13' GT500 water pump part number DR3Z-8501-A. And pigtail number DR3Z-14A411-C. Tasca probably has the best price:
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/dr3z8501a
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/dr3z14a411c


A Stage II upgrade will cost you bigger bucks. It will show another step in improvement. It will get you 13gpm. You chances of making 10sec runs without pulling timing will go up. It won't be bulletproof though. On hot days you still may not be able to and making a couple of pulls back to back (roll racing) you will still be pulling timing.

This may get modded depedning on what HE you have.^^^^^^

-Have a shop (or yourself if you can do that stuff) cut the IC fittings out of the IC and put bigger ones in.

-Run the Stewart E2512A pump here:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=71

A Stage III would be a big deal/big money upgrade. But it will get you to as good as you can get (with an EForce) and light years ahead of what you have now. It will still pull timing now and again depending on conditions, but it's good. It will have you at 21.5gpm and a much bigger "reserve".

-Have a shop (or yourself if you can do that stuff) cut the IC fittings out of the IC and put bigger ones in.

-Run the Stewart E2512A pump here:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=71

-Run a degas tank with 1.25" fittings (I will have this available soon).

-Run a massive HE with 1.25" fittings (I will have this available soon).

-Run all 1.25" hose.

He has the Magnuson...

Ahhhh, into my first cup of joe. Thanks.:)

Thanks for the info!!! That being said, do your suggestions still apply to my Maggie setup? Sounds like water pump improvement is what we need to do regardless of Blower brand?

Yeah, pump improvement is paramount. But depending on what you HE looks like you will need one of those too. Is this what you have?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...80625d6319.jpg

That looks similar. Someone on SVT had the Maggie setup thread a couple years ago.

That has a big face, which is good. but not much volume, which is bad. I estimate that is 300cu in in core volume. That good size for what comes with blowers, not good size for what is needed/can be done. I would ditch that unit and run a 13' GT500 HE. They are 800cu in.

I will have to worry about fit for the HE itself (mounting, etc), then I'd have to worry about the hoses that go in/out of the HE right? If it's a different size, I'll have to change the hoses to and from the coolant pump/reservoir/etc.

That's easy, and well worth the gains.

Thanks for the input Sqidd. I'll need to check out how much the 13 gt500 HE is, then possibly add that to my upcoming wish list. I'll need to verify the dimensions of the gt500 HE to ensure proper fit.

You can pick them used for about $300.

It fits.

I’ve been watching the DOB website for the release of cooling/intercooler products for a while now:

http://departmentofboost.com/product...tercoolers.htm

I’d be interested in having improved (daily driver) cooling efficiency for my Roush TVS kit, especially during the hot Las Vegas summer months.

I have Brenspeeds Edelbrock 675E kit coming next week. I will let you know how it runs. It should be about 8-9 pounds of boost with an A/F mixture a little on the rich side to be safe (ie. low 11) I will do some data logging on the parameters after I have it installed and put on a dyno to give me some final numbers. I did a lot of research before I bought one and Brenspeed gave me a great deal on the kit.

Ok, just yesterday I had a shop install the Brenspeed 675E on my 14 GT automatic. I know the guys pretty close and when one saw it they first thing they said was I am going to lose a ton of power when it gets hot. The other guy said it will be fine. After the install they ran it on the dyno 5 times. Yes 5. They did it so they could do runs with the engine really hot and see how high the IAT is after back to back to back pulls. Amazingly the HP and torque went up each pull about 3HP until it capped out at 547 rwhp.

This morning my buddy told me he couldn't believe it and he takes back anything he ever said about the Edelbrock. From my perspective the thing is a beast. It will break the tires loose at 70mph in 4th gear. I had my buddy tune it and I trust his tunes a lot. After reading posts all over the internet about Edelbrocks not giving power I was scared to buy one but in the end I am super happy I trusted my gut.

The dyno is not the street. The heat loads are completely different. Keeping stuff cool on the dyno is child's play.

What is it? 45deg out there? The tires are breaking loose because they have no traction in the cold. And it's a whole lot easier to keep IAT's in check when it's not hot out.

BTW, what are the IAT's at the end of a 4 gear pull? Do you know?

I don't need the dyno to be the street. The dyno was so the car can be tuned and to check operation. The IAT was around 108 if I remember correctly but it was late and I would need to check.

BTW, it's never really that hot here. Either way my post is based on my experience so far and from guys who work exclusively on Mustangs for a long time. I guess we will find out when I take it to the track.

Looks great bro
 

Looks great bro but I can honestly tell you that the horsepower range that JDM told you is the only street range power that they know, from what I heard their better for track cars but they dogged my tune and I have an 11 Coyote with a 2.9 Whipple front feed. I'd recommend going elsewhere for a tune

Thanks... but I already had it dyno'd before my latest mod. You probably seen it on my sig from before. So I haven't had her re-dyno'd since my latest mods, but it's definitely way up from before. And I've had them for my tune for a long time. I trust them and their results have been verified.