Total performance solutions merged with thunder racing still individual company's just working together now. They are strictly dyno use only

 

TPS just recently teamed up with thunder. Thunder was strictly GM speed shop. I know a few of the guys from TPS so I won't go into detail. But they won't touch my car. Cody is one of the best around though. They only negative I've heard about Cody is about $$$. But you get what you pay for.

 

Lt's and x pipe were one of my fav mods. You will def feel it and hear it.......get ready to hear it lol. As far as the boss intake.....it is what it is. Everyday driving you won't see anything unless your up in the 6000 rpm n up range and if you are you def see the horsepower. Good luck with your build.

 

Oh n black87gt. What suspension mods do you have. 11.78 is a little too good for those mods with no tires and especially no suspension.

 

Actually Cody is charging me 350$ for full custom dyno tune which is cheaper than thunder! A friend of mine was thinking of going to them for a dyno tune till I told him not to cuz all the bad things I heard about them. He said thunder was charging I think around 450 to 500$!

 

Thanks man!

 

I understand some of the torque will come back with longtubes and the x pipe but that torque would still get added on even with a stock intake. You would just have WAY more.

And the reason I said race a friend is because roll racing takes out all the suspension,track prep, traction blah blah blah issues. Find someone with a similar car, roll race them before and after the boss intake. Same driver same car same road same everything, only change is your intake and tune. Let me know how it works out. Until you do a fair comparison like that, or on a dyno, or a 1/4 mile time, you're talking out of your *** saying the boss intake is worth the money. If you don't care about performance and want it to look good then yeah its worth the money, but I am talking about real world gains.


7200-7400 is not enough rpm to make up for the torque loss, most people need to shift around 7600 just to pick up a tenth in the 1/4.

It's 11.74

And I didn't say no tires, I said 18" radials. I have Eibach Pro Kits, and a Steeda panhard bar to center my rear end. Other than that my suspension is stock.

 

May have alil more torque with the stock mani fold but less HP it a trade out and their are plenty of dyno results on the net to compare to that are pretty consistent unless u are implying that most speed shops don't know what they are doing an u know somthing they don't! My results are on a upto date calibrated mustang dyno! I have seen dyno files from a dozen 5.0's on the same dyno with just cai an tune and not one made over 405 whp I put down 428whp granted there torq is a lil higher like I said it a trade off. All of the cars that made close to 400 or lil more where dynoed in 70 degree weather. I dynoed in 85degree weather and still put down 428whp. And don't appreciate the talking out the *** coment!! I'm speaking from what I've seen on paper for over a dozen cars! Have not made it to the track yet so don't have slips yet. May not be same car but al the tune and cai cars made consistent numbers 385 to 400whp the 385 was in 95+ degree weather. What I put down to what they put down is a big gap in power. I have seen consistent proof of this on dyno files. This is what I base my info off of! Will try a rolling run with a buddy and let u know how it comes out.

 

I think you may be missing my point a little. I understand your car made good power, and I know you think that the power makes up for the torque you lost. But I'm saying you have no back to back comparison. Even a dyno won't accurately show which setup is faster. Just the hp and torque. Would you give up 25 ft lbs for 10 hp? How about for 25 hp? The real answer is you don't know unless you run the cars back to back against either a clock (a bunch of times for a good pass) or an unchanged car from a roll where traction and stuff doesn't matter. Until then your sotp or even dyno numbers don't mean squat. My buddy has an LS1 camaro that's 400 whp on the nose. It trapped 110 mph. The dyno doesnt always tell the whole story.

And no I don't think some speed shops selling parts and labor know everything. Just because they are a shop I'm not taking their word, maybe it's the engineer in me but I like proof.

 

I get ur point I plan on going to the track and will try to find someone to do a rolling run with me. Being that u ran such a good time maybe u should find someone in ur area witha Boss setup to do a rolling run with! Or buy the mani and test it out ur self. Then give us ur opinion.

 

But I'm saying run your car at the track with both intakes. Or race someone with both intakes.

And dude r u cereal? I had a boss intake on my car, how do you think I know? That's why I urge people to try both intakes back to back.

 

Didn't know u already had one. So what was the difference in ur times?? Are u manual? If so any mods to support?

 

Also what mods where u running with the Boss ?

 

That is by far the fastest time I have seen yet with those mods. Christ there is guys running that with longtubes, with your mods and full suspension.....

 

I think I get both your points.

BMeline is saying he likes the higher hp, and is willing to lose a little bit of torque.

BlackGT is saying the compromise of lower torque to higher hp (in the case of going with the Boss mani) may not be the best idea since the car may actually end up being "slower" (as evidenced by trap speed, quarter time, etc) as he has personally witnessed on his own car and others.

Am I right?

Both have good points.... but maybe BMeline doesn't care about being faster overall but just wants more hp in general???

 

Torque might help you get off the line but is not the most important thing to worry about. Just check out some really fast imports. High hp and low tq. But still fast. Hell if you want low end hp and torque just put a blower. If set up right, it can still put down some serious numbers.

 

I never seen any proof of what he is saying as far as cars with the Boss pulling slower times. There are people that go both ways with this topic but never any proof. He could be right or could be wrong, if he could give me proof that's another story. I will run the car at the track to see some results. If anyone wants to find out follow my build will try to post some results every chance I get. I put good power down on the dyno now have to see what it will do on the track

 

And also, lower low end torque may help on launch traction issues. What gears are you running?

 

3.73's and when I go to the track will have some DR's so I will need to dump high rpm so I don't bogg down on launch.

 

I ran at different tracks on different days, so I don't have a clear cut time difference. But taking all things into consideration it was about .3 slower at the track. My car is manual, and as far as supporting mods I had a CAI, and an O/R x pipe, and I tried a steeda, Bama, and AED tune (all mail order). The steeda tune was by far the best of the 3.

As stated above. I also think this is why my car got slower, I think you need a good host of supporting mods (including most importantly a throttle body and longtubes, as well as a lot of gear) to go with the boss or it will slow you down. A CAI and x pipe just won't cut it, and thats about as far as a LOT of people go with power mods. Which is why I keep harping on this, the boss intake is not for everyone.

Thanks!

You are EXACTLY right!

I am right, and I have proof, I have done this on my own car and seen it with my own eyes. Also talked to a close friend who ran slower at the track with the boss intake, he had similar mods as me. As I said before without going full bolt ons the boss intake will slow you down, even with them its probably worth less than a tenth, and thats if you're willing to rev your car to 7600+.