Ibnzmonkey

I searched a bit but didn't see many turbo threads on here. The only ones I came across were people who installed a Hellion single or twin system. Before people start flaming, I do know several excellent companies already provide proven turbo systems to the public be it single or twin. That's not why I'm making this thread.

I have the ability to perform FEA, CFD, and digital modeling via Solidworks. This thread will just be a placeholder for various information I gather pertaining to turbocharging the Coyote. That way, when more and more people start adding FI to their Coyote they wont make a million threads asking why their valves are floating or why their 38mm wastegate isn't keeping up with the flow. When I had my Genesis I made a thread similar to this one and everyone loved it. Hopefully the Mustang community takes it the same way.


There are lots of things to consider when wanting to DIY a turbo system for your car. Hopefully we can get insightful information on some of the topics below. It's not a comprehensive list just a starter to get the wheels spinning. (pun intended)

• Turbo Selection (single/twin)
• Tubing Diameters
• Tubing Routing
• Fueling
• Wastegate Selection/Placement
• MAF Placement
• Inhibiting Valve Float

Ibnzmonkey

I found this nifty article from Fast Fords website. It involves various power adders being added to the Coyote. One in particular caught my attention. In the spirit of this thread I think I deem in necessary to provide some insight on this. I have linked the article in question below so you guys may review it.

Fast Fords Turbo Coyote

In their article they are testing the Hellion single turbo system. As most of us know. It really left a bad impression on the initial buyers when it first came out. To this date, I do not believe Hellion has fixed the issues associated with their kit. If I may, I would like to offer up WHY I think this kit has issues and offer some insight on how it could be improved.
Just food for thought. I have no REAL CFD data on the Hellion. I'm just going by what I've seen plastered on the internet and my by own turbo experience. Discuss?

Brandon302

Definitely seems way to small on the exhaust tubing. Wasn't too impressed with Hellion's kits after putting one on a friends 08.

Ibnzmonkey

Exactly. I'm not saying Hellion makes terrible kits. I'm just saying there are some things that need to be questioned.

Well. Since this thread took off to a running start. I'm going to offer up some more info. When I owned my Genesis I was going to fabricate my own turbo system. I bought all the hotside plumbing, V-Bands, cold side tubing, and couplers. Since I have traded that car in, I now have boxes of all these things laying around in storage. So I figured, why not make good use of it?

I have a GT3081R turbo "laying around" in a box. While the compressor is large enough for the 5.0, the turbine side is a lowly T3 to help spool on a smaller engine. Garett says the max displacement on this is 5.0L.. I will not be using this turbo for a multitude of reasons. One being that the 5.0 flows extremely well from the factory. At the top of the RPM band you'll choke out these smaller turbos.

Instead, when I have the available funds and have suffciently planned and designed my system I will be utilizing a Borg Warner S400SX3. I am undecided on the 71 or 75mm version. Being a single turbo system I am leaning torwards the 75mm for later potential if or when forged internals are installed. Here's the link for review.

http://www.agpturbo.com/borg-warner-...71mm-and-75mm/

Since the 5.0 has numerous documented backpressure issues with turbocharging. I am deciding whether or not it's beneficial to use two seperate 46mm gates in the crossover tubing. Or one large gate near the collector into the turbine housing. Possibly a Precision 66mm.

The Boss valvespring upgrade would be a MUST for me. Although their exact spring rates are unknown at this time.

Good talk guys.

cjd82187

Subbed! I read your one from gencoupe regularly =)

Ibnzmonkey

Yea. I feel as if I let the community down with that one. I had everything I needed to get started then I ran across an incredible deal on this California. I have no plans on getting rid of this any time soon so I will put my parts to use instead of them collecting dust in my storage building.

This forum is kind of like GenCoupe. If it's not made by a vendor or specifically endorsed by a "Mustang Shop" then they have no interest in it. It's okay with me. I'll periodically update this thread with CAD models available to be downloaded so anyone can take the schematics to a local shop or do it themselves. An open source turbo system if you will. I have no plans on making money off of it. I feel as if I can bring something out that isn't **** and has actual science backing up the capabilities then I think it will work out just fine.



Whoever moved my thread to the Mod section. Thanks!

Brandon302

Not sure if you could find the spring rates on the valve springs, I would suggest taking a look at the Roush valve springs since Boss owners who track their cars hard are replacing the stock springs with the Roush's since the stockers can explode it looks like.

Ibnzmonkey

Good find. I will research this and post up some spring rates for everyone.

kaineoutlaw1213

Ive done a few turbo kits on every gen mustang since they turned to fuel injection. I bought a 2013 thinking a top mount signle looked easy and straightforward. W a canton vortech coolant tank, a slim fan and bmr lower rad support alot of room opened up. Im running a 76/75 billet wheel ceramic ball bearing precision w a 96 ar. And I have came to understand after remaking my hot side 3xs its gonna take 3.5 to 4" pipe to the turbo and to the downpipe and a bigger turbo. I know it sounds crazy but if you want to help back pressure you need 80mm+ w 114ish ar and min 3.5 piping on the hotside. Jpc set up has the least bends and is the simplest and I was able to run 4" from the y to the turbo and 4" down pipe but I took the swaybar off for this. Then I still had some valve float but I was using the precision I mentioned earlier w a t4 undivided flange. I switched it out for a v band flange journal bearing basic 84mm w a 114ar and now I have no more valve or back pressure issues. Just because you put stronger springs in dont mean the back pressure dissappear. Its still there and your engine is still working hard to move the exhaust because its bottle necked. Since then I used some of my old y pipe and hot side on another car. I think I found a simpler way to fix b/p issues. 2 44mm waste gates at each side of the y pipe near the manifold flange. But instead of using boost to operate them I took the packpressure test port at the base t4 flange I made and ran it to the wastegates. Then I installed a 20lbs spring in each. So at 10psi boost if you make over 20psi b/p it will open the gates and bleed it off . So you use the wastegates to reg b/p. because you want a 1psi boost to 2psi b/p if poss. This seems to work great, I couldnt believe it. Ive spent every weekend for 4months trying diff things. Does any of this make any sense or have I been up welding too long lmao

JVasser

Subbed. Science FTW ***** ****as!

cjd82187

Makes a bit of sense, would be easier to follow if there were some paragraphs thrown in, and maybe a pic or two =)

Ibnzmonkey

It "looks" easy to me too from a packaging standpoint. There is a lot of room if you remove things that don't go "choo choo" so you'll have room for things that go "PFooo PFooo PFooo PFooo".

This is good info. Luckily BMR makes a lower support that houses the sway bar now. One of my concerns was routing a large diameter downpipe through the control arm.

I am curious as to how your hot side and crossover is built. If you take a look at other high revving V8s their turbo kits are built somewhat similarly. For example, most of the M3 V8 kits use a 3" to 3.5" collector to the turbine input flange. This is done to lessen the likleyhood of excessive backpressure when the engine is spinning 9,000 rpm. The exhaust volume at that speed would be pretty tremendous. Larger A/R ratios would be needed to keep the pre turbine backpressure in check.

Like you said. Your 1.14 A/R works great because it has the ability to flow the massive amount of exhaust volume without being stressed.

I agree. The excessive backpressure will still exist even if you swap valve springs. I think it's a cheap security to keep valve float in check. From what I've researched. MOST of the valve float issues on the single turbo builds have been on the exhaust side. Simply too small of turbines or wastegates are being used. The 5.0 LOVES to breathe, choking it with a little turbo and gate will put excessive pressure on the back of the exhaust valve and cause it to "float" at high RPMs when the pressure is the highest.

This is interesting! Are you saying you took base pressure from the exhaust side? I am not certain how you achieved this. If you could please post some pictures of your creation it would be greatly appreciated by me and most importantly. The community.

Ibnzmonkey

Here are some items that may prove useful in creating a ton of extra room to route piping.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...productid=1043

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...productid=1053

I've been researching electric slim fans to replace the large bulky stock unit and shroud. This would definitely open up a bunch of real estate. When I find a solution for that I will update this thread accordingly.

CiniZter

i amazed by all these stuff.. keep it coming

Ibnzmonkey

I may be moving to Houston soon. When I get to the point of fabricating I could use a couple extra hands.

XW Coyote

What happened to this thread anymore updates I was hoping to see lots of pics and stuff