Think I might install my supercharger this weekend. I'm also putting in a 170degree tstat and a triple pass heat exchanger.

Anyone have a guesstimate as to how much coolant I'll use to re-fill the engine coolant and to fill the HE, and degas bottle?

Should I get coolant from ford? I've read bad things can happen if you mix coolant....it's a 2013 GT

Thanks.

 

what supercharger did you go with? I'll be installing mine as well this weekend and was wondering the same thing.

 

Was gonna go vmp, but came across a deal on a 2.3 whipple that I couldn't pass up!

What about you?

 

VMP, pulley is coming in today and I'm starting work on it on friday, if all goes well hopefully be done sometime saturday. I've gone over the install guide probably a hand ful of times, contacted VMP with any questions. All set to go.

As far as the coolant goes i was just gonna go into autozone and see if they had the same orange **** that ford uses and then get a different color for the heat exchanger.

 

Yea, I've gone over the install several times as well, only thing that's slightly concerning me is the locating/soldering of the one wire on the PCM connector.

Guess I'll have to do the same on the coolant.

 

that what i like about the VMP kit, all plug n play stuff.

 

I bought the vmp PNP harness kit. We both still have to solder the ACT wiring!

 

We installed a Vortech on our '13 last weekend and had to drain the radiator and coolant tank and hoses. Drained about a gallon and a half into a bucket. After the build, we filled everything back up with new 50/50 Dex-Cool. The orange and red coolant fluids are the same (organic acid additives). You can safely use either with each other. You dont mix older green fluid that is used with copper radiators with the newer red or orange Dex-cool organic acid fluids. Red/Orange is for aluminum, green is for copper radiators. Even though the Dex-Cool says for "GM" vehicles, it is the same as the orange that is a Motocraft Ford coolant.

 

what'd you do to get the air out of the system?

 

good deal. Look forward to a build thread if you do one.

I forgot about that one wire, mainly cause its the only one you have to solder really, no big deal.

 

Thanks for the info!

I as well am curious as to the best/quickest method of purging the air out if the system.

 

Yea, we'll see how it goes.

Doubt I'll have time to do a detailed thread, gotta a lot of other things going on while trying to get this slapped on.

 

We filled, ran for a few minutes. Topped off. Repeated a couple of times. We were data logging so I was watching the coolant temp the entire time. After the second time of running the motor and topping off, the fluid level stayed at the same level.

 

good to know thanks, that seems to be the way most people do it.

 

I'm about to pull the trigger on a vortech kit also. How do you like it??

How much of a pain was to install? Major cutting the bumper or shroud area?
Also, I posted this question but wanted to ask you guys also. Did any of you consider changing out the oil pump gears ? I am trying to decide if that is something that is needed? I only plan to keep it at a conservative tune with 550ish RWHP if I can.

 

When you guys are filling up the intercooler system, do not attach the mounting bolts to the reservoir at first. There is enough slack in the hoses to pull it upwards, making sure it is the absolute highest point in the system. Being able to move it will also allow you to ensure that the intercooler is full. Just keep filling the reserve tank up to the black part and turn it to allow coolant to go down all the hoses. I read a ton of guys having issues with the intercooler getting air locked. I did the above steps and never had a problem. Use these connectors for the soldering. All you need is a heat gun. http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fusi...at_shrink.html

 

IT IS FREAKING AWESOME! SO much fun. If you have a 13 or 14, you don't have to cut the bumper at all. Install is easy, just have a friend for help and plan on a weekend. Now that I have done one, it would prob take a LOT less time, but on a scale of 1 - 10, it is a 6 on difficulty. Just takes time.
You really need a dremel tool though.
If we had more time, I would have installed a billet oil gear, but we dont hammer on the car at the strip, so we are rolling the dice. We will forge if things go wrong. I will say, use Beefcake and his special WITH the Lund tuning. I cant tell you how impressed I am with Jon Lund and his tuning. He was awesome and the remote sessions they set up to tune your car is the ****. Our data logs look incredible. He took the time to make 5 revisions to get everything dead on perfect. Couldnt be happier with the entire process, purchase/install/tune. The car is an absolute rocketship now.

 

My triple pass took 1.8 gal and I didn't have any issues bleeding air out of the HE. I used 50/50 dexcool aka GM coolant.

 

Motorcraft coolant is part # VC-3B, very few places other than the dealer parts has it.

And I was told that although it is similar to dexcool, it's not exactly the same.

For me, I'd stick to the ford/motorcraft stuff.

Been paying about $22 a gallon for it for my truck, but of course you cut it half and half with distilled water so for about $23 you end up with 2 gallons.

 

You can most likely run a 60/40 or 70/30 mix of coolant ( water/anti-freeze ).


Even with the cold weather we had here in SEVA a buddy of mine was running 70/30 with a 170 degree T-stat. Also if your going to run some sort of water wetter running 50/50 will lead to that gummy black emulsion that people complain about.