Changed her oil this weekend
#1
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This weekend, I went ahead and changed Marilyn's blood. This is my once a year must-have alone time with her. It was a blast. Did it in about an hour or so. Could have been done way sooner, but a lot of it was mucking around while the oil drained completely, and stopped dripping. She put on about 3000 miles since the last oil change. The oil removed from her during this oil change didn't appear "dark" by any means, but darker than new oil of course.
My process was, jacking her up using my favorite garage tool, my Craftsman LED low profile jack...I love this thing. I placed her on stands. I opened the oil cap and pulled the dip stick. I then proceeded to drain her oil by removing her magnetic plug.... then, removed the oil filter. I love my Craftsman strap wrench for removing the filter. IMO, nothing gets filters loose like a strap wrench, with no worries of damaging filters. I also used the ziplock Baggie trick for zero spills. Once drained, plugged everything back up, then replaced with a new Amsoil EA017 filter. Then filled her with 8 quarts of Amsoil Sig Series 5W-20. Checked oil, perfect. Checked for leaks, none. Went for a drive around the block, came back, shut her off and let her rest for 1/2 hour or so, then checked her levels again. Perfect.
Tadaaa...done... Sunday morning bliss. Changing oil has got to be one of the easiest things to do, and best ways to get some alone time with your car![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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My process was, jacking her up using my favorite garage tool, my Craftsman LED low profile jack...I love this thing. I placed her on stands. I opened the oil cap and pulled the dip stick. I then proceeded to drain her oil by removing her magnetic plug.... then, removed the oil filter. I love my Craftsman strap wrench for removing the filter. IMO, nothing gets filters loose like a strap wrench, with no worries of damaging filters. I also used the ziplock Baggie trick for zero spills. Once drained, plugged everything back up, then replaced with a new Amsoil EA017 filter. Then filled her with 8 quarts of Amsoil Sig Series 5W-20. Checked oil, perfect. Checked for leaks, none. Went for a drive around the block, came back, shut her off and let her rest for 1/2 hour or so, then checked her levels again. Perfect.
Tadaaa...done... Sunday morning bliss. Changing oil has got to be one of the easiest things to do, and best ways to get some alone time with your car
![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://s14.postimg.org/6avw2e1j5/IMG_1793.jpg)
![](http://s14.postimg.org/yp1bm9p35/IMG_1794.jpg)
![](http://s14.postimg.org/amkhre8g1/IMG_1795.jpg)
![](http://s14.postimg.org/anz0yjznl/IMG_1796.jpg)
![](http://s14.postimg.org/7ief8ch1d/IMG_1797.jpg)
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Last edited by FromZto5; 7/9/13 at 02:51 PM.
#6
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Awesome! Some one on one time with the beast!
#7
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She has 5400 miles now! Almost 2 years old. Can't believe it.
If it did, it was very minute. I wasn't expecting to see large chunks at all... But hopefully on a minuscule level, it was doing its part.
You know it stage!!!
You know it stage!!!
#8
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You've had more chances to drive yours, between work and the crappy weather I have only added about 700 miles so far so since April, but at least I finally broke 4,000 miles. Yours is looking excellent as always!!!
#9
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Oh you low mileage guys. I'm approaching 49,000 miles and I bought it with 11,000 on 9/2/11. So that means I'm averaging 1,700 a month!
Anyway, strap wrenches are good, though I prefer the cup-style oil filter wrench or, even better, the K&N oil filters with a 1" nut on top for easy removal!
Anyway, strap wrenches are good, though I prefer the cup-style oil filter wrench or, even better, the K&N oil filters with a 1" nut on top for easy removal!
#10
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Oh you low mileage guys. I'm approaching 49,000 miles and I bought it with 11,000 on 9/2/11. So that means I'm averaging 1,700 a month!
Anyway, strap wrenches are good, though I prefer the cup-style oil filter wrench or, even better, the K&N oil filters with a 1" nut on top for easy removal!
Anyway, strap wrenches are good, though I prefer the cup-style oil filter wrench or, even better, the K&N oil filters with a 1" nut on top for easy removal!
#12
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#13
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It's a great thing to do for sure, but for me, I don't because I figure, what good is it going to do me anyways. Let's say it comes be slightly high or slightly low, it's not like Ford is going to somehow magically give me a new engine. LOL. If anything, it will make me worry more ![Smile](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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I may have a chance to test that soon, with my wife's car. We bought it with 35K on it a couple months ago, but the guy that had it before us had it as a second car and rarely drove it and did zero maintenance in the three years he owned it. As soon as we got it home from Des Moines, I changed the oil and sent it to Blackstone for analysis. Here's what they said:
KYLE: This first sample from your new-to-you Mazda 2.3L was high in aluminum and iron when compared to universal averages, which show typical wear after about 5,500 miles on the oil. We suspect this oil was in use longer than that, based on the high iron. That's the only metal that tracks with time on oil - more miles on the oil means more iron. With aluminum and iron reading high, we might be seeing some piston scuffing too. The viscosity was on target for a 5W/20 and insolubles show good oil filtration. Try running around 5,000 miles next and check back.
So, I did another oil change at 1,000 miles and got this back:
KYLE: Metals look a lot better in this sample than they did last time. To be sure, for just 933 miles on the oil, aluminum and iron are still a little elevated when you consider they're already average (or a little higher) and averages are based on about 5,500 miles on the oil. But, remember that not all the old oil leaves the engine in one oil change. Some oil stays in the engine and that residual oil could explain some of the metal here. If you use another ~1,000-mile interval, aluminum and iron should improve. Stay within 3,000 miles at most.
So I changed it again just short of 3,000 and am waiting for that analysis to come in. What I'll do if they tell me the aluminum and iron are still way high, I'm not sure. I'm not going to tear down the motor and replace the pistons, and the car's out of warranty, so it might just be something for me to worry about
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#14
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I've done one on my car and will probably do it annually. FromZto5's point is good though...I'm honestly not sure what I'd do if they alerted me to a problem. I suppose I'd go see the dealer, ask their opinion and see what could be done?
I may have a chance to test that soon, with my wife's car. We bought it with 35K on it a couple months ago, but the guy that had it before us had it as a second car and rarely drove it and did zero maintenance in the three years he owned it. As soon as we got it home from Des Moines, I changed the oil and sent it to Blackstone for analysis. Here's what they said:
KYLE: This first sample from your new-to-you Mazda 2.3L was high in aluminum and iron when compared to universal averages, which show typical wear after about 5,500 miles on the oil. We suspect this oil was in use longer than that, based on the high iron. That's the only metal that tracks with time on oil - more miles on the oil means more iron. With aluminum and iron reading high, we might be seeing some piston scuffing too. The viscosity was on target for a 5W/20 and insolubles show good oil filtration. Try running around 5,000 miles next and check back.
So, I did another oil change at 1,000 miles and got this back:
KYLE: Metals look a lot better in this sample than they did last time. To be sure, for just 933 miles on the oil, aluminum and iron are still a little elevated when you consider they're already average (or a little higher) and averages are based on about 5,500 miles on the oil. But, remember that not all the old oil leaves the engine in one oil change. Some oil stays in the engine and that residual oil could explain some of the metal here. If you use another ~1,000-mile interval, aluminum and iron should improve. Stay within 3,000 miles at most.
So I changed it again just short of 3,000 and am waiting for that analysis to come in. What I'll do if they tell me the aluminum and iron are still way high, I'm not sure. I'm not going to tear down the motor and replace the pistons, and the car's out of warranty, so it might just be something for me to worry about
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#17
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Oil "wear" and breakdown will vary some with car use/driving style, so I am mostly interested in running analysis to make sure my oil is holding up and to get some data on a couple types of oil. The ford recommended oil change cycle is what, every 7500 miles? I don't ever plan to go that long since I plan on keeping this car a long time (well past the end of the warranty) so I want to minimize wear while I am under warranty. Probably a bit overkill but for peace of mind I will pay a bit extra for an analysis and lower mile intervals for oil changes
#18
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Oil "wear" and breakdown will vary some with car use/driving style, so I am mostly interested in running analysis to make sure my oil is holding up and to get some data on a couple types of oil. The ford recommended oil change cycle is what, every 7500 miles? I don't ever plan to go that long since I plan on keeping this car a long time (well past the end of the warranty) so I want to minimize wear while I am under warranty. Probably a bit overkill but for peace of mind I will pay a bit extra for an analysis and lower mile intervals for oil changes
#20
Shelby GT350 Member
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I hope I can keep miles low enough on this car so that I consider time in addition to miles between changes! I think over the winter I will put on very few miles so that should help offset summer and fall where the miles are racking up pretty quickly so far!