2013 Premium GT Auto

Doing a NA street strip build goal (500rwhp)

- Kooks LT with catted H-Pipe leaving my flowmaster axle backs (don't want fumes with offroad pipe)
- Steeda Suspension Kit
- Steeda CAI w/ tune (done)
- Nitto DR's not sure size yet or rims

Question Marks are These:

- Are there any reputable head & cam packages or is all of the power already being made here?
- Torque/Stall Converter I only see one available.

Comments / Critiques?!

 

There are heads and cams out there but they're pretty expensive. You're on the right track with the converter. Currently Circle D is the only one that makes one but there's another one being tested and should be in the market soon and should be less expensive than the Circle D.

 

So far with the mods you have listed you may get to 400 rwhp. Not sure if head and cam packages will get you to 500 rwhp but a modest boost supercharger will get the job done.

 

A good dyno tune will get you over 400 rwhp.

 

so basically I am stuck with rebuilding the engine from bottom up or adding a blower/ turbo to get to 500rwhp? can a cam change and the bolt on's listed at least get me to 450rwhp for a DD?

 

you can do the heads and cams...but in the end a blower will net you more power for much cheaper. you are looking 1600 for the cams, 3000+ for ported polished and assembled heads and then still have the labor and dyno costs. and you would have to spin the motor past 7500 to get close to the 500rwhp mark. While the stock internals will do it...playing with borrowed time expecially on 93 octane

 

https://themustangsource.com/f800/52...octane-509010/

heres a link to another members car and what he did to get to 522 at the wheels. And his car is a manual...auto would be a bit less at the wheels

 

Don't dyno race your car. Your 385 rwhp Auto will smoke 400+ rwhp manual cars at the track 9 out of 10 times. With a circle D, you're unbeatable, a manual isn't close . Forget about 500 rwhp NA, aint happening. Plus there's no purpose other than to say "I have 500 rwhp". Sounds like something a guy in a Supra would say. "I have 700 rwhp".... and he still only runs high 12s.

A tuned Auto, with a Circle D and drag radials is an 11.20- 11.30 car. The Autos are stupid fast back to back to back. Manuals get a good time and they think they cured cancer because it doesn't happen 2 in a row with the pos MT82.

 

Thats b/c we have to actually drive the car not put it in drive and press the gas like grandma

but yes the auto's will destroy us manual guys all day long

 

I used to be a diehard manual guy too don't get me wrong. Once I realized that my driving ability was having nothing to do with losing races, I put my ego in the backseat. I like winning alot more than rowing through gears praying she goes in 3rd or 4th. The new autos are surprisingly fun.

 

i was just giving you a hard time. If I tracked my car more. I wouldve definitely went with the auto. But most of my time is just driving it and I still like rowing my own gears.

 

I definitely understand that. I miss dropping it in 3rd or 2nd on the highway sometimes myself. I have only tracked my car once when I borrowed some DR's. I went 12.18-12.25 on 4/4 runs with just a Steeda 93 tune, steeda CAI and DRs. I know with the same mods a manual can go 11.90s by sidestepping the clutch at 6k with a perfect run through the gears. However, it's usually backed up by a 13.50. I know if I line up with any car what mine is going to do each and every time. If i line up with a Zo6, he better not miss a gear.

 

Blackstang13,


If you want to make 500whp, you might be better off going forced induction than NA, it can be done NA, but the cams and supporting work can make it hard to tune and maintain good street manners and driveablity.

Kooks are great, fitment and performance is top-notch. Whether NA or forced they are a good choice.

Steeds is glad to help with the suspension and intake package whenever you are ready.

Once you figure out the wheels you can decide on tires, Matt Levine with Steeda would recommend going with Nitto NT05R’s, they have excellent traction and performance.

In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.

Please email me if I can put you in touch with Matt Levine and we can get you started with your build. My email address is tim@steeda.com.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Yeah man...on DR I'm somewhat consistent. In the 12.4-12.5 range ran a best of 12.20. When i was stock with just axle backs. On the crappy all seasons I couldn't get any consistent times. Best was a 12.81 I believe. But I've run the gamut for times. But I have a blast doing it. Haven't been since the other mods

 

I agree that the automatics are a little quicker and more consistent than the manuals day in and day out. However, it is not impossible for a manual transmisson to be reasonably consistent. BTW, I am replacing my 2011 GT 6MT with a 2014 GT 6A so I am a believer.

Making these three 6MT passes back to back surpassed my goals with my 6M transmission. Since I am now 70 I am not sure how much longer I will want to shift gears thus helping me make my decision to go with the automatic. My mods at the time of these three passes were:

Steeda CAI, Lethal cat delete offroad exhaust, SCT Dynojet tune (419 rwhp), AM shifter w/Barton 2 pc shifting bracket, GT 500 mufflers and a borrowed set of M/T drag radials.

I am told that I lifted the left front tire off the ground on each of these passes. Wish I had a video.

At the same time my friends with automatics and the same mods as me were running 11.88's.

 

[QUOTE=tj@steeda;6557004]Blackstang13,

In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.

Concerned with where I live and using a blower. It runs at least 100 in the summer here and summers are from April to September and the altitudes from 2k to 5k+ above sea level. Not sure if that matters on the Stangs but it does on most blowers here.

Anyway I am pretty decided on exhaust with Kooks and high flow cats staying with the X pipe and will be installing at the end of the month. Suspension I should start at the end of March as I am not sure on rims as the stock 8.5 rims aren't big enough for tires in the rear and I want to do suspension and tires together if possible.

 

What you say has a lot of truth to it. I do want to be able to say I have a 500rwhp NA Mustang and break into the 10's at 5000+ ft elevation. I want it all. I am new to the Mustang platform as a whole and wanted to know what its capable of NA. I grew up with big block Chevy's. I can see from research that this engine does best with power adders.

 

It can be done if you are willing to pay for it. Just don't think the stock bottom end on the GT is upto it for longevity. It is strong but I just don't think it can handle the rpms. There are plenty of companies that can get you there. If that's what your goal is then go for it man.

 

I'd start by giving JPC a call. They'd be able to give you the info you need.

 

After some research and checking of the engine and this car it appears that getting to where I want to go would take some serious engine work or choosing to add a blower which appears to be the easiest of the 2 and most cost effective as most everyone mentioned. I am going to get tuned in for the summer by finishing the bolt-ons one a month through the summer GOD willing. I am ordering kooks set up tomorrow. Suspensions, tires and begin looking into stall converter (waiting on choices) and blower for the winter (looks like a simple Rousch Stage 2 kit will get me there).

I appreciate the help and I will start posting pics and sound clips soon.