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Anyone gone supercharged and regretted it?

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Old 8/24/17, 04:17 PM
  #101  
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On its surface, it looks like this to me...

625 RWHP + 12% = 700 BHP at the crank IF using 12% parasitic loss for drive train.

So at 11 psi and under the most optimistic conditions (it never is though), in Candyland, you could market it as 700 BHP.

That being said, I trust sqidd's input hands down. I have no personal experience to rely on of my own.

Last edited by crjackson; 8/24/17 at 05:34 PM.
Old 8/24/17, 05:22 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by sqidd
Bwaaaahaaaaaahaaaaa!!!! It could maybe be done on e85. But certainly not with the kit as delivered.

And 8psi........LOL. Clearly someone down at Whipple screwed up. Ballpark boost numbers are easy. At 14.7psi (one additional atmosphere) you roughly double what a motor makes stock. That's assuming 100% efficency and no parasitic loss, which is impossible. So a 400rwhp Yote, which is pretty middle of the road with exhaust takes an additional .75 atmosphere to make 700rwhp. .75 atmosphere is 11.025psi. And remember, that's at 100% efficiency and no parasitic loss.

At 11psi a Yote with exhaust and headers will make 600-625rwhp. There is no way that it's doing it at 8psi. 11psi is also the octane limit of 93. So 700rwhp at 8psi on 93 octane is impossible on two different fronts.
I'm slightly over 600 rwhp with stock headers/cats, my little 2.3 Whipple delivering 9.8 psi during that 608 rwhp / 517 rwtq dyno run.

With a smalller pulley, no cats, and with longtubes, running e85, I can see the set-up putting out closer to 650 rwhp.
But I wouldn't consider that a safe set-up.
Heck, I'm careful driving mine now, since I really can't afford to blow it up.

But yeah, I consider it close to 700 crank-hp as it sits.
And it's a fun ride.

But while my wife's Shelby is only putting out about 50 more rwhp, the 150 more ft-lbs of TORQUE makes it a much more fun animal.
Having a transmission that I don't worry about blowing up on every shift, helps a "bit" too
Old 8/24/17, 05:37 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by sqidd
Where do you suggest someone find those sources?

-According to you you can't trust the vendors and manufacturers (for the most part you can't).

-You can't trust magazines. There are no longer tech reviews or tests. Everything you see is a paid advertisement.

-Most of the customer base is woefully technically unqualified to asses the performance of a supercharger they own. They have personal bias and the conscious or subconscious defense of a large purchase. And in most case they have only ever owned one supercharger which means they don't have anything to compare it to.

-And a few of the big names that have stellar reputations are tarted up junk. So you can't trust reputation.

I'm seriously curious where you think that people can get good, accurate, unbiased facts from? This is not me arguing. This is me genuinely curious about what you think. If there is a solution to the "problem" I'm all ears. Because I think it's a big problem (the lack of reliable buying information).
I would say trust the forums, Facebook pages and Youtube videos of people with actual usage of this type of equipment and set ups.
I'm ALWAYS looking/watching/reading on the interwebs for actual equipment usage, reviews and videos.
And I do agree, advertises are paid to say what they say. ALWAYS do your own research.
Old 8/25/17, 07:22 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
I would say trust the forums, Facebook pages and Youtube videos of people with actual usage of this type of equipment and set ups.
But most of that is dog and pony show bull**** too. I can make ANYTHING sow more HP on the dyno by stacking variables in the favor of more HP. Variables that you can't stack in real life. Additionally a lot of dyno operators are guilty of juke-ing the numbers higher through dyno parameter changes (keystrokes) because they know high numbers are what the customer wants to see.

I see more fantasy claims on the internet than realistic ones. 75% fantasy, 25% realistic.
Old 8/25/17, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabe

But yeah, I consider it close to 700 crank-hp as it sits.
Originally Posted by crjackson2134

So at 11 psi and under the most optimistic conditions (it never is though), in Candyland, you could market it as 700 BHP.

I consider crank #'s smoke and mirrors......unless the motor way's dyno'd on an engine dyno. Which is almost never. And I consider it dishonest for them to be used as advertising by anyone but Roush. Because Roush actually puts their stuff on a engine dyno.

Last edited by sqidd; 8/25/17 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 8/25/17, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sqidd
But most of that is dog and pony show bull**** too. I can make ANYTHING sow more HP on the dyno by stacking variables in the favor of more HP. Variables that you can't stack in real life. Additionally a lot of dyno operators are guilty of juke-ing the numbers higher through dyno parameter changes (keystrokes) because they know high numbers are what the customer wants to see.

I see more fantasy claims on the internet than realistic ones. 75% fantasy, 25% realistic.
I do agree with that. Most dynos are set-up. Dyno numbers are great, if you can get a great 1/4 mile time to back it up.
I'm talking about the cars at the track and the cars with video on the speedo watching the needle moving. That's the proof in the pudding.
(Sorry, I should have been more specific.)
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Old 8/25/17, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Gabe
I'm slightly over 600 rwhp with stock headers/cats, my little 2.3 Whipple delivering 9.8 psi during that 608 rwhp / 517 rwtq dyno run.
With a smalller pulley, no cats, and with longtubes, running e85, I can see the set-up putting out closer to 650 rwhp.
But I wouldn't consider that a safe set-up.
Heck, I'm careful driving mine now, since I really can't afford to blow it up.
Heck Gabe,....with longtubes, smaller pulley and E85/E85 tune, you'd be more closer to 700rwhp. I would run cats though, even though I have heard that E85 does a number on them.

Last edited by Stage_3; 8/25/17 at 04:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 8/25/17, 09:10 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
Heck Gabe,....with longtubes, smaller pulley and E85/E85 tune, you'd be more closer to 700rwhp. I would run cats though, even though I have heard that E85 does a number on them.
Probably, but I'm not willing to push this engine any harder. It's a blast at the current power level, and I'm already taking it easy on it wondering if the next pull will be the one that makes things go boom.
I plan on building my own engine soon, but I really want a GT500, and I'd love to build a monster 5.4 for it.
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Old 8/26/17, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabe
Probably, but I'm not willing to push this engine any harder. It's a blast at the current power level, and I'm already taking it easy on it wondering if the next pull will be the one that makes things go boom.
I plan on building my own engine soon, but I really want a GT500, and I'd love to build a monster 5.4 for it.
(Sounds like you and I are on the same mindset.) Either way,....it's a win-win Gabe! So, you'd get the older Shelby with the 5.4 or a newer Shelby with the 5.8? Either one is great and will make stupid power/torque with mods.

If you build your engine, what are looking to do?
I thought about the MMR 1000Kit. (forged bottom end kit and other stuff I would add on. I actually posted on it at the other Mustang forum. I added it up, it's HUGE money. lol Not including labor to do the MMR1000 and other mods install. That is why I am holding out at the moment. I have the funds, but I want to make sure I want to fully commit before the new GT500 is coming out as well as a couple other cars I am interested in.)
Good luck man! Keep us posted.
Old 8/26/17, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
(Sounds like you and I are on the same mindset.) Either way,....it's a win-win Gabe! So, you'd get the older Shelby with the 5.4 or a newer Shelby with the 5.8? Either one is great and will make stupid power/torque with mods.

If you build your engine, what are looking to do?
I thought about the MMR 1000Kit. (forged bottom end kit and other stuff I would add on. I actually posted on it at the other Mustang forum. I added it up, it's HUGE money. lol Not including labor to do the MMR1000 and other mods install. That is why I am holding out at the moment. I have the funds, but I want to make sure I want to fully commit before the new GT500 is coming out as well as a couple other cars I am interested in.)
Good luck man! Keep us posted.
I'd be looking at a '11+, but more likely a '13-'14 car, since the cool tail lights and 5.8 engine.

MMR, I would never buy anything from them, they have a terrible reputation.
Old 8/27/17, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabe
I'd be looking at a '11+, but more likely a '13-'14 car, since the cool tail lights and 5.8 engine.

MMR, I would never buy anything from them, they have a terrible reputation.
Nice!! 2011 and up sounds killer. Should be beastly. Torque galore.

I never knew that about MMR. I guess I need to some homework.
Who else would sell forged kits for the Coyotes Gabe? Good, quality stuff.
Old 8/27/17, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
Nice!! 2011 and up sounds killer. Should be beastly. Torque galore.

I never knew that about MMR. I guess I need to some homework.
Who else would sell forged kits for the Coyotes Gabe? Good, quality stuff.
L&M makes great stuff

https://www.lmengines.com/engines/5-0l-coyote.html
Old 8/28/17, 01:19 PM
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L&M FTW
Old 8/28/17, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gabe
Originally Posted by sqidd
L&M FTW
Nice! Thanks guys!
Any place sell just the forged kit instead of buying a new block/engine?

Those blocks/engines, are not complete, correct? Like just a swap out/replace?
Old 2/11/24, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by silverstate777
Forced induction is very satisfying. My ‘14 GT has the modest Roush phase 2 kit with a 91 octane aftermarket tune. 12,000+ trouble free miles so far and no regrets.
what was the damage
Old 2/12/24, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by silverstate777
Forced induction is very satisfying. My ‘14 GT has the modest Roush phase 2 kit with a 91 octane aftermarket tune. 12,000+ trouble free miles so far and no regrets.
Originally Posted by 5.0MustangNamedTyrone
what was the damage
If you're referring to the forum member that you quoted above? It appears that you misread his quote, as his quote clearly states 12,000+ trouble free miles aka no damages and no regrets... Otherwise, please clarify your post response.
Old 2/12/24, 09:55 PM
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I think he means the damage to his bank account. It’s a common phrase meaning how much did it cost you.
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Old 2/12/24, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by crjackson
I think he means the damage to his bank account. It’s a common phrase meaning how much did it cost you.
WHen it comes to car mods, if you have to ask how much it is, you can't afford it Because every mod is coming with a lot more money on the back end, especially blowers.
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Old 2/12/24, 11:02 PM
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Yeah, I know. Mine is fully forged / blown for years. I think you meant to direct that comment to @5.0MustangNamedTyrone .
Old 2/12/24, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by crjackson
Yeah, I know. Mine is fully forged / blown for years. I think you meant to direct that comment to @5.0MustangNamedTyrone .
I actually just meant it in general as a reference to people based on personal experience, your post just fit the bill for what I was thinking so I quoted it.
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