Nelsonoj5

Hello I have a 2013 GT with brembos and an oil separator. lol thats it!!
My plan is to get a Steeda CAI/Bamma tune, x-pipe with flowmaster outlaws, Steeda sport springs, short throw shifter, and some louvers.

Any info on potential HP? MAybe some other opinions on what went well for you? I haven't bought anything yet, but I should have everything done by April LATEST.

TheDivaDanielle

I think required mods on any car for any enthusiast at minimum should be cold air intake, exhaust, and tune.

I think with your planned mods, it'll be personalized to how you prefer, and you'll be on the right track, and be around 400rwhp. If you want to go further, it'll be more expensive, and your desire to get there is up to you.

I know for me, I don't plan to go super far... at least in performance, until the car is paid off. I figure by then I can just hit it all at once and get a supercharger or a turbocharger. I figure it'll be easier, and I've learned from past car mistakes.

wheelman

I'd say tints first then I'd ask what gears you have and what your plans are for the car. Drag, track, autox, dd?

RCE EATR

With the CAI, exhaust, and tune you should be around 400whp and it will sound pretty sick. The steeda sport springs are nice, I had them on my 2010. I personally went with the Eibach Pro Kit on my 2013 bc I wanted a little more drop. Make sure when you lower it that you get an adj panhard bar bc you'll need it to re-center the rear end. As for the short throw shifter, there are lots of options out there. Make sure you get a new bracket as well as this helps get rid of a lot of sloppiness in the factory shifter setup. I personally am running the Barton shifter with their two-post bracket and I'm loving it. VERY short shifts and very rarely every miss a gear.

Nelsonoj5

Yeah until the car is paid off I'm not going to go crazy. The tints are coming, I'm waiting for my day off lol, and it's got the 331 gears. IDK if I'd change em though. The only real difference I'll get with gears is a drastic gear change, like 4.10-4.30. The plan is to keep it for driving on my days off and once and a while to the drag strip. I haven't heard of that panhard bar, I'm going to go look right now!

TheDivaDanielle

the first three gears feel incredibly long w/ the stock 3.31's in my car. I'm considering a change to 3.73's or even 4.10's in the future. Car will never be drag raced anyway.

RCE EATR

Going from 3.31s to 3.73s is a pretty big difference. You should drive a car at the dealership with 3.73s and then yours and feel it.

conv_stang

Only problem with going to 3.73 or 4.10 with minor mods, is you will have to shift to 5th at the strip. That's the reason I got mine with the 3.31 for now. Once I've done the cams and a few other mods along with what i gave now. I'll be going to 4.30 in the rear

RCE EATR

With 3.73s you can run it out in 4th unless you're trapping around 120mph.

PaxtonShelby

I'm thinking the 3.31's would be perfect for someone planning to run FI on the car at some point. I'm ordering a '14 with the Track Pack, so I'm "stuck" with 3.73's from the factory ( Torsen rear ). If/when I go FI, I'll probably want to change the ratio. I'm wondering what is involved with a gear change in a Torsen diff...thinking it is more involved than a standard traction-lok???

MRGTX

Skip the CAI... Just tune. There's plenty of debate on this but it looks like the CAI is only worth 5hp over a tune alone since the stock air box is very good...and the CAI will set you back at least $300 that might be better put into the tire fund.

Keep in mind that your engine warranty is gone as soon as you tune....

Good luck!

Nelsonoj5

My buddy has a cobra with 4.30s, that is a noticeable difference lol. 3.31-3.73, im not saying there is NO difference, but its not GREAT from my expirence.