The the vents on the 2013-14 mustang's hood really needed? I now have an 2011 with a 2014 engine. I would hate to cut into the hood.
Thanks

 

My '14 puts out some serious heat. It doesn't help that the car is black, but even still I'd hate to think what might happen if it wasn't vented. On a cool summer night when it's back in the garage after a longer run, my garage actually warms up. There's a reason why Ford designed the hood that way I'm sure.

 

Thank you. I'm taking it back to ford maybe they will put and oil cooler on it.

 

This, plus I saw a video or read an article that Ford was concerned about underhood temps and thats the reason they added vents.

 

I'd like to see any evidence of this being functional in terms of engine temps. My 14 runs the same as my non-vented 12, even beating on it. Granted, I'm not in Death Valley up north here.

If anything, I'd say the vents might assist high speed stability but reducing the hood lift my 12 had at high speeds. I don't seem to encounter than on the 14.

 

I've never heard of hood lift on the S197, so it's unlikely that would be a factor.

As to evidence of heat extraction functionality, there probably isn't any data that would be of significant use. I'm just going by what I experience every time the car goes in the garage and the door goes down, and there is a notable rise in temps. I can feel the heat escaping from the vents. I'll bet it's just as noticeable on a GT500.

 

It will be interesting what ford will say.

 

I found the front end on my BBP 12 to get a little floaty at top speed in the Nevada desert two years ago when I tested it. The 14 is BBP also and doesn't do that, for whatever reason. It wasn't severe, compared to say what a 68 Mustang or a 70s F-car is like.

 

The heat extractors are not need and do very little.

 

Respectfully, I tend to disagree with the comment that they do nothing. Living and driving in Arizona during the summer months you can see the heat waves coming out of those vents when you are stopped, such as at a red light. Without those vents, that heat would up to a point just build up and lead to higher under hood temperatures.

I've had inlet air temps of 158 degrees with cylinder head temps of 246 degrees....hate to see what the cylinder head temps would have been if some of that heat hadn't been allowed to escape through those vents.

 

It's really simple... Someone with a tuner can data log and check intake temps both with and without the vents. I'm inclined to believe that intake temps will be VERY similar between the two... But there's only way to know for sure.

Everything else is just conjecture.

 

This would be a good test.

If I might add to the conjecture, I read an article about this a few years ago and can't find it now unfortunately.

The gist was that the flow of fresh air over the radiator is the biggest cooling factor, but increased grille size leads to worse aerodynamic effects. The heat extractors serve multiple functions, one as a simple heat extractor, but also that the escaping heat, combined with the upper and lower engine compartment shrouds, creates lower pressure in the engine compartment which allows greater airflow through the radiator.

If all this is correct (which it may not be, I admit I can't find the article for review), then the car must be moving during the datalog to disprove the hypothesis.

But theoretically it's pretty convincing to me. I think the question I have is how much do they actually lower engine temps, and how much more effective would bigger extractors be?

 

Best test would be to test on same car...vents open and then seal them off.

 

Just spray some water on the hot engine, close the hood and watch where the stream comes out.

 

Instructions unclear; engine now hydrolocked.

 

No that would be, 1. take the air filter off. 2. Insert hose into air intake tube and turn your spicket on. 3. Listen to you throwing $7k away.

 

My situation is unique since everything is 2011 with the exception of the 14 motor. The dealership said I am fine without. I may put an oil cooler on to make sure.

 

Agree. I have installed the CDC "GT500 style" open grille and roush lower grille on my 2013 and ceramic shorty headers and I can definitely confirm that these two bolt-ons combined significantly reduced the underhood heat, more than the heat extractors would. If you are looking to reduce heat without cutting the hood, I suggest these. A lot of heat comes from the headers and ceramic coating definitely makes a difference as well as increase air flow from the upper and lower grilles.

 

My 2013 GT heats up my garage as well.

 

If you were really worried about overheating I'd say get the Boss 302 radiatior and oil-to-water cooler, but I don't think it's an issue. The factory cooling system is designed with plenty of extra capacity. These motors never have cooling issues on the street, it's only after sustained high RPM (like on a road course) they'll start to heat up.