Yes haha, and from your short time on the TRX forums haha.

Your parts list looks except get the Borla ATAK Axlebacks-

They are expensive but they sound great!

 

Nice car, I did recognize your user name but did't think any thing of it.I'm BZ trying to read through the forum and get information on HOP-UP's...

I already order the Roush, I like the sound and adjustable tip.

Are you going to be lowering your car?

 

They are good but have alot of drone.

Yes I am going to lower it and have these springs- http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...e-springs.html

and Camber bolts

 

I have the Roush axle back with absolutely no drone, I think you'll enjoy them.

 

Get the B&M Panhard bar, I've heard nothing good at all about the J&M piece. The GT500 axlebacks can be routinely found on svtperformance for under $250 shipped. Not to sure how to comment on the suspension stuff, since I'm not fully aware of what's in it, but I chose to install Ford Racing K Springs, and they are a pretty good match for the stock Brembo Package dampers.

 

Nice car ya got there, kinda looks like mine

 

His kinda looks faster. :-)

 

Heard the same about the panhard bar. Something about the ends of the bar not holding up well. I ended up going with Steeda mostly because I also wanted to replace the panhard brace and as a package they seemed like the best value. Especially with a little forum hookup. But BMR was my 2nd choice.

Have you thought about the UCA, LCAs, and LCA relocation brackets? Then the whole thing should be all set and be able to be optimally aligned.

What I'm going to end up doing is Eibach Pro-kit springs, Steeda Adj. UCA, J&M LCAs (?), CHE Relocation Brackets, Steeda adj. panhard bar and brace. I'll look into the sway bars, shocks, and struts later. With the pro-kit drop, I've read the stock shocks and struts should be fine. I'm still debating a bit on the LCAs but I keep ending up back at the J&M ones mostly because of price ($99) and I haven't read anything negative about them yet.

 

I'll be kinda honest guys, I'm surprised all of you are freely willing to spend so much money on changing up the factory suspension so much. It's your money to spend, though.

 

Only for about a week

 

another member with black cs
congrats

 

Thanks for your insight, I have not thought about the UCA,LCA or the brackets at all. Are they really need?

This is what I plan on getting from AM today. I want to have them instal next weekend.

Eibach Pro-System-Plus
Front Struts
Rear Shocks
Pro-Kit Lowering Springs - Progressive rate
36mm Tubular Front Sway Bar with bushings - 3 Way-adjustable
25mm Solid Rear Sway Bar with bushings

Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates

Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar

Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts

What do you think of this set-up. I basically want the car lower with some improve handling and NO WEAR ON MY TIRES.

Do I still need the Adjustment Bolts if I get the Caster Camber Plates also?

 

First, I have to say I'm not an expert on this stuff by any means. I've just been researching all over the interwebs for about a month or two. So all my statements are just my opinion based on what I've found.

In response to your 1st question:

• Adj. UCA - will help realign the driveshaft after lowering the car. Not necessarily a big deal. Really depends on what your usage will be or whether you just want to play it safe. On this from what I've read the main thing is replacing the stock UCA bracket which is fairly crappy.
• LCA and brackets - the stock ones are basically crap (by just about anyone's opinion). Aftermarket ones will help to eliminate any wheel hop experienced on launch and the brackets will just help maintain the factory geometry after you lower the car.

2nd question - No. From what I've read the adjustment bolts should be enough unless you go with an extreme drop on the front. On this one my plan is to get the bolts and if the alignment can't be brought within specs, then I'll get the CC Plates.

As Danielle rightly pointed out it does end up being a decent chunk of cash but the more I looked into what I'd need to do to lower the car, the list just kinda grew.

My goals are 1st to lower the car to reduce the fender gap, 2nd better grip and handling, 3rd don't overstress the parts not being replaced, and lastly keep the increase in NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) to a minimum.

 

Side note: If you haven't found it yet, head over to www.gtcsregistry.com. Cool info and when you add your information to the registry, there's some discount codes that will be emailed to you. American Muscle is one of the sponsor sites so it might save you a few bucks.

 

Welcome and congrats! +1 for the GT500 axle-backs.

 

Todays mod's.

Eibach Sport System Plus Suspension Kit
BMR Tubular Adjustable Panhard Rod
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates


Last weekend Mod's.

Roush Axle-Back Exhaust
MGP Black Caliper Covers
Smoked Third Brake Light Tint
Smoked Side Marker Light Tint
Smoked Quarter Marker Light Tint
RedLine Hood Strut

As far as suspension goes, What other parts do you guys suggest I get.
BTW LOVE how the car drives and handle's now.












[URL=http://s224.beta.photobucket.com/user/racksteris/media/IMG_0499-1_zps21ccfb41.jpg.html]

 

There is no drone with the Roush ABs.

Nice ride OP! As long as money is burning a hole in your pocket, I would recommend Boss 302S wheels.

 

Its very quite on the highway, Not bad at all. I will add 3'' pipes, not sure what that will do to it.

I will look in to the boss wheels but I have my eyes set on these
Piano Black Forgestar CF10 Monoblock Wheel
There $2600 for wheels+Tires+TPS Can I get a better set for that price.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-...9x10-0513.html

 

Tubular LCA's might help also.

 

Nice car! Are you happy with the roush ab?