Yeah, it's the stock 2.3. I wouldn't mind going to a bigger blower, but that's more money than I want to put under the hood right at this point. There will come a time when I upgrade it and back the boost down to reduce the heat build-up (the other issue with increasing the boost that I don't like).

 

Yep I'm running a 2.3 whipple with a 6lbs lower crank pulley. I'm pretty much maxed out with this set up. My temps are pretty good but it's always scary running her when it's cold. That boost has to be close to 22 when cold.

 

I'm in Fishhawk. We chatted on the forum about a year ago when you traded your GT for the gray GT500. I had a 2012 Kona Blue GT500.

 

Yeah, the colder the better in most cases, but when you're pushing boost that high, it's risky.

 

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Will you dyno after your mods to proof your hp gains ?
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Keep in mind that the S/S package #'s, ( 750, 800, 850, 1000 ) are crank hp.
Shelby doesn't dyno their builds & most owners don't bother either.
It's hard to know how tame or aggressive a Shelby tune is with no rw #'s.
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My 2011 is making 756 rwhp, & that's a Feb. 2012 dyno. I upgraded the intercooler & it's due for a tune.
.......................I expect the 14 to make more hp than the 11 !

 

Yeah, I always dyno the car once the upgrades are done. The shop I use does that for me any time a change of 20+hp is being done on the car.

My mod ideas are going to be changing however, as I'm now considering a 2.8 LC from Kenne Bell instead of a pulley swap. The reason is primarily stress on the engine itself and heat buildup. Here in Texas, running a SC at 19psi is downright dangerous in the Summer because of the high intake temps. The heat will kill any boost I get after one hard run. It's better all around (except for my bank account) to go with a bigger SC and use less boost to reach 700rwhp. I'll have to save up for a good while before I have that done, however. I have been told that if I just want a dyno sheet that says I have 700rwhp, I need to find another dyno. The one the speed shop uses is not good for the ego, as it doesn't over-estimate power numbers. Most cars that have been put on theirs and have numbers from other dynos report hp and tq numbers that are sometimes as much as 10% higher on the other dynos. I'm not really interested in having the dyno sheet that says 700 though, and I told them that it's the actual power that I want on the back end of the car. They know that, so this is the direction we're going now.

I'm really interested to see what you're going to do with the '14. I can't believe your '11 is that high. That's unbelievable power for that engine!

 

Ok guys, you so need to make this a separate thread in this section, so I can reference this back when we are ready to turn up our car. Or I'll just ask...

 

just finished my install today .the car is louder thats for sure.

 

smaller pulley and stainless works catback is on order.

 

pulley is on and the car runs great . the cat back will be here tomorrow.

 

wow that is impressive!!

 

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Did you baseline your car before you started your mods ?
Mine did 585, ( DynoJet, SAE J1349 corrections ).....now the fun begins !!
.....( no one will accuse my tuner of having a " generous " dyno.. )
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There are a lot of rather generous dyno operators out there looking to inflate their customers' numbers. The guys I have work on mine have their dyno set to run as accurately as they can since they use it to tune their track cars. They need them to be accurate, so the dyno needs to be accurate.

 

very very nice dude!