Thanks for the heads up on the charger. I would only put it on for a few hours during the week when I know I'm not going to drive it. Your comment about cooking it will make me aware of the time limit.

 

Somewhere I heard that the S197's are battery and alternator eaters...and after my recent bout with my battery and alternator, I fully believe it.

I thought about buying something else besides stock, but couldn't pass up "free under warranty"... If it ever happens again, I'll be in the market for something else...probably something with a satisfactory amount of CCA, and a good reputation. Fit be ****ed. If I have to make a new battery platform with my teeth it'll be a heck of a lot better than a car that craps out on me.

 

The Ford Motorcraft Battery in my wife's Grand Marquis is now 7 years old without a failure. I recently left it parked for 11 days while I was on a trip. During that period temperature were often in the single digits. When I returned it started right up without hesitation. It has now outlasted all of the batteries (including those warranted for 8 years) I have had in over 40 years of driving.

 

i am still a firm believe the issue is not the battery itself. If you leave it connected, and the car consistently draws on it without recharge, you will kill the battery, just like a cell phone battery, or a hybrid battery, or anything. if you store the car, disconnect the battery, and put it on a battery tender, it will last a while. I however am waiting till mine croaks to get me an optima, best battery out there by far.

 

When they replaced my battery (for free) my mechanic said that a lot of Mustangs have this problem because of all the juice the battery draws checking various systems in the car. He said to run the car at idel for a few minutes even if you don't plan to drive it just so all the systems can be made. He also advised me to get a battery tender/charger to run a trickle charge every so often.

 

Personally, from my experience, I think the battery failures are due to a number of things.

1. Stock battery has rather low CCA for the size of the engine.

2. I wouldn't bet on the reliability of the alternator and regulator. (I got a feeling they're causing damager to the battery over time...)

3. The electrical components of the car are scatty and often barely protected from the elements. I wouldn't be surprised if Ford employed a team of monkeys to install the wiring in the factory...

 

I posted problems with this on another thread, so I won't repeat it again. Suffice to say, my battery dies in about three days in cold temps, and about 7 days in warmer temps.

I purchased a battery manager and have to keep it plugged up every day, and no problems. The car is garaged, unlocked, and all electrical devices are shut off, prior to shutting down the engine.

However, I went out and looked at the battery this morning, and the part number listed on it is BXT96R, which only has a CCA rating of 500, and a reserve min of 90.

I believe the battery that should be in the car, because of the active alarm system, shaker, etc., is the BXT40R (High Electrical Content), with a CCA rating of 590 and a reserve min of 105.

I am wondering if Ford just ran out of the BXT40R and put in the BXT96R in to keep production running, and that is why some of us are having problems and others are not. Just a thought...

 

The one in my car had the 590 rating because they read it with the meter before they replaced it. It was still a problem evcen though I drove the car thrtee days in a row (over 100 miles) before letting it sit for four days.

 

Don't you guys using battery managers and such think it's a bit odd? I mean, a car should run. It shouldn't have to be put on life support left and right. Unless you live somewhere where you need a block heater, or leave 'er parked out in 120-deg heat, there should be no need for any of that kind of mess. In my layman's opinion, that all sounds like a load of crap and I'd be pounding on Ford's door for a fix.

 

Crap. Went to drive mine as it has been sitting for a few weeks and no go. Battery about dead. Wow...these cars have a mind of their own when the battery gets weak. The dash lights stayed on when I removed the key. Strange stuff. The car will be 2 years old in a couple weeks. No alarm or anything.

Can you connect a "battery tender" while the battery is still connected to the car? Seems like it wouldn't work right with the current draw??? I may check into one. This is what I get for not driving it this winter. I guess it is ticked.

 

I also have this problem and find it hard to believe it can't be resolved. Having said this, a friend of mine works at a BMW dealer and they have the same issue. They recommend using a maintainer/tender if not driven daily and have them available for purchase.

 

I got the optima and it cranks like crazy. I just hope this battery out lives the orginial.

 

That's just crap to me.

If I went car shopping and found out that a car crapped out like that, I wouldn't buy.

 

I just started my car today after sitting for about a month.
I had played with the lights, opened the doors etc. during the month.
It has the Heavy Duty battery. I have never had a problem.
I don't think it is the battery either.
I have the alarm, but I lock the garage, not the car. That probably helps helps too.

 

Hell I've been pointing this out for nearly 2 years. And I couldn't agree more, however not even an Optima (best battery) will make any difference. The only solution is to run a battery tender.

 

There is a big distinction between a car that sits in storage for months without a charge and a car that is driven daily.

Any battery left with a load on it and not charged will die. If you are experiencing battery failure problems with a daily driver, that is a totally different issue with a completely unrelated cause/solution.

It would be interesting to hear how many people suffering battery problems have after market electronics alarms, stereos, etc, installed on their cars. An amplifier wired directly to the battery and not run through the key switch is powered all the time and draws current all the time, that will drain a battery REAL QUICK!

 

Yes you can, that is the whole intent, either of these or any similar will work for exactly that application.

I would suggest something like this. Deltran SuperSmart Battery Tender Plus 12-Volt 1.25 AMP Battery Charger Price: $49.99

http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-SuperS.../dp/B00068XCQU

Or this SEM-1562A - 1.5 amp Battery Companion $36.50

http://store.schumachermart.com/sem-1562a.html

My RV runs quite a few electronic systems on it’s Intellipower Charge Wizard & 8+ year old deep cycle battery.

 

I don't have any electronic extras but do have UDP's. Wonder if that might be part of the problem. My dealer didn't flinch in replacing the battery gratis.

 

I hope I don't jinx myself but I got my car in Nov 2004 and still have the original battery. It has never died on me and I just started it for the first time in 4 months and it started on the first try. One difference is I disconnected the battery from the car when I put it in storage. I didn't bother connecting my solar charger to it cause I wanted to see if it would hold a charge and it did. So, I know a lot of people are saying the battery is the problem but I am going to agree with the ones that say it is not a battery problem. I'm pretty sure it has to do with all of the new electronics these days (ie: factory alarm). I know the alarm I had installed in my last car would kill the battery after 1 week if I didn't drive the car.

 

I'm pretty sure it has to do with all of the new electronics these days (ie: factory alarm).

That's what my mechanic said. Systems checking systems puts a drain oin the battery.