Heck, I'd take 30 days. But 5 to 7 days is just a bit short for a battery.

 

For those of you who replaced the stock battery, did it help?

 

I had to have my battery replaced at the 30,000 mile service. No problems since then.

 

Update -- http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...8&postcount=22

 

I posted problems with this on another thread, so I won't repeat it again. Suffice to say, my battery dies in about three days in cold temps, and about 7 days in warmer temps.

I purchased a battery manager and have to keep it plugged up every day, and no problems. The car is garaged, unlocked, and all electrical devices are shut off, prior to shutting down the engine.

However, I went out and looked at the battery this morning, and the part number listed on it is BXT96R, which only has a CCA rating of 500, and a reserve min of 90.

I believe the battery that should be in the car, because of the active alarm system, shaker, etc., is the BXT40R (High Electrical Content), with a CCA rating of 590 and a reserve min of 105.

I am wondering if Ford just ran out of the BXT40R and put in the BXT96R in to keep production running, and that is why some of us are having problems and others are not. Just a thought...

 

With the active alarm, Ford does advertise it comes with (or should come with) a higher electrical content battery. Mine has the 40R battery with the active alarm. You could bring up this point with the dealer and see if they will replace the battery with the proper one.

 

Once a battery discharges it will never recover 100%. Charging it will bring it back to 90% or so.
Kill the battery again and recharge will recover to about 80% and so on and so on.
After Ford found the problem with my Shaker 500, they should have replaced my battery under warrenty. But because the car still starts and charges to spec, they blow you off.
Sooooooooooooooo
You shoud not have to tend your battery with a charger. Find out what is causing the discharge, have it fixed and if the battery has died more than twice IMHO CHANGE THE BATTERY!

 

 

After reading through many of these threads, it is still hard to tell if anyone has successfully diagnosed this frustrating dead battery issue. Since my 07's issue has been getting progressively worse this fall, I dediced to test the Shaker being turned off theory. Now after about 3 weeks, she is once again down to 10v and as soon as I put the trickle charger on, the CD cycling issue started (no key in the ignition). And then after walking away from car, all of the sudden the radio started playing!!! Almost like it is "possessed":-) I plan to get it to the dealer now as I have a pile of parts building in the garage and don't want to start messing with things until this gets solved. And since the battery has died multiple times now over the past year, I am sure the battery life is significantly reduced... so I plan to really get **** with the service department.

Is this a possible Shaker 500 issue?? Or just something I have to deal with and maybe mitigate with a bigger battery and regular battery tending during down time??

 

Just called my dealer and explained the problem. Ironically enough, they were working on another Mustang with the same problem and are fairly sure that one is linked to a bad Shaker unit. Mine is going in on Tues., so I will post what ever they find to be the root cause.

Given the amount of issues I read in here, I surprised to hear this was their first 2 cases of these symptoms with the Mustangs. They are a smaller dealer that does not sell a lot of Mustangs, so I guess that is possible.

 

It's almost scary that this thread started way back in '05...

 

I agree and made very clear to the service advisor that anything short of my battery lasting 30 plus days sitting idle was unacceptable! So am optmistic, based on what I have read here and many other places, this will get finally solved.

 

Picked up my car on Wed. and the diagnosis was a bad battery (which was replaced under warranty), along with recommending I follow STB 07-05-13 and 07-5-8... which essentially outline the need to use a trickle charger for vehicles stored undirven for >30 days due to the minimal current drain associated with the onboard computers of all newer Ford cars. I do think the battery was damaged due to multiple full discharges, but am still optimistic based on what I have read in multiple places that the battery was the real root cause.

I plan to ensure the shaker is turned off before the ignition switch and just this solves the problem. With a Supercharger in my near future, I am really hoping this is solved as I don't want to get into any kind of "not covered due to modifications" debates with the dealer.

 

If you fully suspect the Shaker 500/1000, here's a test you may want to try. Pull the radio fuse and then let the car sit for 30 days. If after the 30 period, your car starts up. Then you'll know beyond a shadow of a doubt, that it's the Shaker !

 

no hiccups in 2.5 years, 30k miles I just parked it for the past two weeks and the battery was so dead it wouldn't even unlock the doors with the key fob. no alarm nothing left on. How sad for me I should call road side assistance.

 

Yes, but only when I attempt to put it in storage. All summer I drive it parking it in the garage leaving accessories ON and keys in ignition. It always starts even after 10 days. But as soon as I park it for storage, turn everything off and take the keys out (i dont lock it) the battery is dead the next day. I think she knows she's going into storage. Can you say Christine! LOL!

 

Yikes! a Optima Red-top for my car is almost 2 bills! I think I'll go with my Battery Tender!

 

So I'm a little behind on the thread (a few years, so what, my 06 just started to have this problem). I have 34,000 on it with the original battery. Anyway, I have concluded after reading the entire thread that the Shaker 1000 CD player is the culprit. I will test this in the coming weeks if anyone cares.

 

Optima yellow top FTW! Worth every penny, 7 years on the last one DD duties.

 

I'm on battery six or seven. I've lost count.