So I replaced my sjb, rail sensor, fuel pump, and my car still doesn't start. I got it to when I took the mass air sensor off but it's shaking like crazy. I have no idea what it is. I took some videos. Also, I was checking that the throttle body opens when my son was pushing on the gas and it does but I unplugged and replaced those sensors in and it was making a noise when the key was on and I took the sensor off and on. Once I turn the car off, it stops of course when I turn it back on. Not really sure what else I'm suppose to do please need help
well I took videos but it won't let me upload apparently

 

You Will Likely Need To Post Vids on Youtube & Provide Link.

Have You Checked For New Codes?

Did you Try Old Sjb??

Kc

 

here are the videos I took. That was a really smart suggestion
I did not try the old sjb. The only thing I changed was the frps in-between the two sjb. The codes for my fuel sender and fuel pump are gone. Only the rail sensor was still there so I replaced it.
so it does show new codes, i wasnt sure if they were because i unplugged the sensors and replaced them in. Not sure if I should clear the codes and try again and it will still pop up or not. But I will post the new codes as well, also says I have low battery but I just charged the battery and tested it and it's charged, so maybe old code. I'm exhausted lol and it's a pain going to and from work with no car

 

I think, think being the key word, it did start even when I had it plugged in. But I'm a little scared to keep trying ro start it. I don't know if I could damage anything by trying too much. I did watch a video about a ground being on a cylinder head I guess but I can't seem to find it when I look. Maybe because I have no idea where that ground is. It's hard to look around from top view and I don't really have access to to lift it.

 

Since You Have Body Codes I Think Disconnecting Battery & Trying Other SJB is The Way To Go.

Before You Do That Hang Tight For a Sec While I Get a PDF.

OK To Cross Check For SJb Issues Test These Functions Controlled By Sjb. If They are All Fubar it Would Point To SJB Problems! Just Test What You Can! While it Could Be an Isolated Issue This Just Seems Like a Simple Cross Check! Check All Exterior Lights Brake,Turn Etc. A Problem in The Alarm Could Be Problematic.

Make Sense?

 

Also FYi The Part You Are Disconnecting is The TPS. When Plugged in Funny Thing Is it Sounds Like a Bad Air Bypass Valve Which They Don't Use On The Drive By Wire Cars!

Really Curious Where Exactly is Noise Coming From. Is it TPS or Something Nearby???

Also I Hope You Got That Goofy Alarm Removed.

TPS REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/2006+Fo...acement/142006



Here is T/B and MAF Cleaning Procedure. Should Be Done After Sorting Out. A Dirty MAF Can Cause Rally Bad Running.

 

Ok so I out old sjb on, I don't have the ground to short codes anymore, just a fuel sender p1202 again. So that's a plus so far. Do you think I having a bad ground, as im replacing sensors is what is messing it up? That noise with the throttle body still happened with the old sjb installed. Someone commented bad mass air sensor as well.

 

Is The Code Reader Plugged in While Running??

Kc

 

Yes I left it in
should I not??

 

Try it Without and See if Any Difference at All.

Kc

 

B1202 Fuel Sender Circuit Open Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 413-01.
B1202 Fuel Sender Circuit Open SJB REFER to Section 413-01.
B1204 Fuel Sender Circuit Short to
Ground
Instrument Cluster REFER to Section 413-01.

 

Oh it did, just like you said. It's doing what it did before it sounds like when the problem started that made me want to buy another sjb

 

What Do You Know!

Maybe a Bad Cluster.

I Posted The FORD Code Diags & Shop Manual Diag. It's a 102 Pages So A Bit Of Digging To Do But You Can Scroll Down To Your Specific Codes And See The Process!

Post 11

I Would Clear All Codes and Let it Run For Awhile With out Reader Until Check Engine Light Comes on and Then Pull Codes. It's Not Still Whining At The Present With Reader Removed??

Kc

 

A bad cluster can do that! Holy crap. Yeah only b1202 pops up now. You don't think replacing or cleaning the sensors will help by chance? Do you think I have a bad ground maybe to the engine? The throttle body noise is kinda concerning me now. But if the cluster can do that then yeah I guess ill have to start tearing it apart. 😮‍💨

 

Oh it doesn't run, the code reader made it start for a second and that was it. It doesn't stay running without shaking the entire engine and a lot of gas smell, without the sensor, I can't even run the car

 

The whining noise didn't happen before, but now it does sense I replaced the frps. I think my son pushed the gas while I had it unplugged so I'm hoping that didn't start that problem. But that is new to me at least.

 

I'm Wondering If The Bad Ground is in Pin 3 on Plug 433??

Just a Thought!

Time To Take a Step Back Do Some Reading and Let All The New Info Sink in. Lets Regroup Fresh on This in A.M. If You Find After Reading The Shop Manual You Need Some More Reference Stuff LMK and I Will Pull it. Meanwhile I always Sleep on this stuff and Sometimes Wake Up in The Middle of The Night With a Fresh Idea. Don't Know if That Works For You But I Got 62 Years of Files Which Update Kinda Slow!

KC

 

How would I test that? Attach positive voltage to multimeter and test if I have my battery voltage to the ground? Roughly 12.5 volts I think right now

 

If You Had a 12V Source and Use That Pin as Ground it Should Light Up. That is My Simple Answer. Sorry Electrical is Not My Strongest Auto Skill By Any Means! May Have To Try Key Off and On! Test To a Clean Spot on Body First. I like The Test Light with The Sharp Pin if You Got One!

KC

 

If it Did Not Whine Before Replacing FRPS Maybe You Should Try Unplugged or Putting Old Unit Back. Maybe Incorrect or Defective.

Kc