Rocket City Mustang Club Huntsville, Alabama Chapter of The Mustang Club of America

My car is hot!! I need help!

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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Puter

Why?
If it was a fan issue, it wouldn't be running hot at highway speeds. It would overheat at idle. Sounds like a circulation problem to me. Possible water pump also. Clogged radiator will do it though. It may be enough circulation capacity to cool it at idle.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #22  
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Yeah I don't think the radiator needs to be replaced
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:53 PM
  #23  
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Only other thing I can think of would be head gasket or restricted exhaust. Not sure if he said it is an auto or manual either. I've seen trans cooler issues also cause overheating.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #24  
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(she) and its an auto
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #25  
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I am definitely replacing the fan sensors with Ford. I am replacing the thermostat as well. I currently have a 180. So, I need to order a stock instead? I believe stock is a 192. I know there is a problem. I want to fix the problem. I do not want to put a bandaid on it and hope it fixes the limp for a while. Obviously, I have been limping on the aftermarket fan sensors as it is. Btw....my car is an automatic.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
If it was a fan issue, it wouldn't be running hot at highway speeds. It would overheat at idle. Sounds like a circulation problem to me. Possible water pump also. Clogged radiator will do it though. It may be enough circulation capacity to cool it at idle.
We flushed the radiator and did not have any problems.
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 08:03 PM
  #27  
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I'm replacing my thermostat this weekend. I've been having problems where mine will stay a constant temp when stopped, but once the car starts moving my temp gauge pegs hot.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #28  
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I experienced an overheating problem before where a new water pump was the culprit. When the engine heated up, the metal expanded and the impeller would free spin. But like most people I started chasing the problem and wound back up at the water pump. Just an FYI
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:15 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BA Mustang
I'm replacing my thermostat this weekend. I've been having problems where mine will stay a constant temp when stopped, but once the car starts moving my temp gauge pegs hot.
you may have a situation where one of your hoses is sucking closed .. make sure they have the wire inner liner in them .. good morning kenny
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by HOSS429
you may have a situation where one of your hoses is sucking closed .. make sure they have the wire inner liner in them .. good morning kenny
They are the Flex-hose so they have the wire all the way through.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #31  
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Be advised these days many FORD Stat's have a Built in Bleeder Valve in the Stat. If the Aftermarket Stat does not they can trap Air & Cause Issues. It's a little fixture on the Flange with a small BB in it. I'm not sure if the Stangs have one and I don't have one handy but be advised.

I know back in the day on the old 2.8L Stang II's I would always drill a pencil lead size hole on the flange so they would bleed. Darn Stat would not open without it in many cases. Good trick for any stat that does not have a Bleeder. It won't hurt. The hole has to be free of any mounting flanges though.

Pic is of PowerStroke Stat. Example of Check Valve Bleeder FORD vs Aftermarket Pin Style Bleeder.


KC
Attached Thumbnails My car is hot!! I need help!-check-valve.jpg  

Last edited by 05stangkc; Oct 15, 2011 at 01:58 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 05stangkc
Be advised these days many FORD Stat's have a Built in Bleeder Valve in the Stat. If the Aftermarket Stat does not they can trap Air & Cause Issues. It's a little fixture on the Flange with a small BB in it. I'm not sure if the Stangs have one and I don't have one handy but be advised.

I know back in the day on the old 2.8L Stang II's I would always drill a pencil lead size hole on the flange so they would bleed. Darn Stat would not open without it in many cases. Good trick for any stat that does not have a Bleeder. It won't hurt. The hole has to be free of any mounting flanges though.

KC

KC
My motorcraft thermostat I just replaced didn't have 1, but my autozone brand does.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BA Mustang
My motorcraft thermostat I just replaced didn't have 1, but my autozone brand does.
That's Odd But you Learn Something New Everyday. It's possible the PRODUCTION one Does not have one But the SERVICE one Does.Or they just may not on that model. I have seen differences in parts like that from time to time. I prefer the Bleeder Style. But what Year Stang are you Talking about?? Your Sig says 67?? That would be a factor as well.

KC

Last edited by 05stangkc; Oct 15, 2011 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #34  
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Yeah it was for my 67, but the thermostat doesn't change until 1996. 65-95 run the same thermostat for the V8s.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #35  
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Bradley surprised me today. When I came home from work he showed me the thermostat that came out of my car. It was really corroded and rusted. My car now has a new stock thermostat in it. Decided not to go with a 180 due to the possibiity of throwing a code. We just want to completely solve the problem right now. Hopefully this will work.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sychobaby
It was really corroded and rusted.
What are you using as coolant? Or are you only using water wetter and pump lubricant?
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 04:49 AM
  #37  
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No water at all. Just anti-freeze. Actually, it was 2 gallons.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 05:00 AM
  #38  
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Should have cut it with distiller water but I'm sure it won't hurt anything. Post a pick of the thermostat. May give some clues to the rest of the cooling system condition.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sychobaby
No water at all. Just anti-freeze. Actually, it was 2 gallons.
Did you use the 50/50 or straight? If straight, look at the chart on the bottle and you will see that you have no boilover or freezing protection. It must be cut with water as AlsCobra mentioned.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #40  
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I've heard 75/25 is the best combination of antifreeze and water.
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