Opposed to an earlier start? 9:30 is almost lunchtime. Let's get R dun.

 

Do you need some gear oil?
I have some Royal Purple at the house, I could swing it by on Saturday morning, drop it off to Mark tommorow, or you could pick it up from me at the Arsenal.
Let me know.

 

Name the time, Mark. I'll have the coffee ready.
*checks to make sureJack is around*

Gary, very cool! Yes, I do. I have not picked up any yet.
Heck, stop on by Saturday and see what is up. I'm actually at Bradford but am on the Arsenal a lot (twice today so far).

 

Coffee and gear lube. Sounds like fun! See you at 8!

 

I'll swing by, don't think I'll be able to stay long because the In-laws are in town.

Ralph, I can't remember if need to add friction modifier or not. I'll check and get back.

The 8.8 takes 3.5 qts, right??

 

It is 75W140 gear oil. It states: "contains limited slip additive". I don't think that will qualify as the modifier so you'll have to pick some up if you don't have it already.

 

I have about all the old burnt gear lube cleaned up. Old gears look good, but who wants 3.08 gears?

The pinion nut ia 1 1/16".

I need to borrow the slidehammer bearing puller from Autozone and get the axle bearings out. Then need to clean up the tubes and housing a little more with carb cleaner and paper towels, shoving them down the tubes with a broomstick. TrakLok rebuild kit should be here tomorrow according to FedEx.

 

Gary, that is what friction modifier is. You do not add FM with Royal Purple.

Is it the "Max Gear" oil?

And no problem on not staying. I am taking my time. The pinion nut and setting pinion depth is my biggest problem.

 

Yep, Max-Gear. I'm interested in learning "the correct way" to set pinion depth. I would like to swap out my 3.55's for something a little steeper. I miss my 4.10's.

 

I can bring my air chisel!

Pass the Bailey's when you're done.

 

From Royal Purple's website...

"All viscosities of Max-Gear are formulated with hypoid friction modifiers necessary for use in clutch or cone type differentials. No additional additives are necessary."

This means I will have two bottles of FM that I will not use.

The "correct" way involves a tool that goes for almost $300. If this is an 8.8" and FRPP gears, the easiest way is #2 in the URL below...

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5o...5ohtech009.htm

 

Too much of a wimp for the Jack I mentioned earlier?
*grin*

 

Ralph, We have a bearing installation tool made out of an old strut that we use to install the axle bearings in the housing. Your welcome to borrow it if you need it. We will be here until 6 PM this Friday afternoon. Greg

 

Jack in my coffee? I'm up for anything! Bring it ON! It's the weekend, and it's not my car!

 

Thanks, Greg. Awful good of ya.
I think I can get it in. I need an installation tool so that I can also drive the race into the rear end. Think I'll first see what Autozone wants for one.

Appreciate the offer!

 

*rethinks the hired help*

 

Well, I could not wait. I grabbed the slidehammer from Autozone and popped the old bearings and seals from the axle tubes.Sprayed everything out with brake cleaner and pushed through some paper towels with a broom handle. Drove in the new bearings and seals. Took off the old brake hardware.

Got the cover cleaned up, surface of the case... so the pinion work is ready. I had trouble getting the races off the differential. Took a dremel with a fiberglass-reinforced cutting wheel to them. Just barely nicked the diff at top on both sides. Not a problem. Pressed the new bearings on.
Figured it is better to put on the ring after the traklok is back in. But, I had no regular gear oil to soak the clutches in. So, stopping point.

And I looked at the tranny. Threw the cluster shim in, still have .001", but that is okay. Everything else went back together except that I did not have a new o-ring for the shifter shaft. So I used a bunch of lack RTV. I'll cross my fingers. Tolerance for endplay came out to zero after I put in shims. Yes! Got it all buttoned and sealed up. Went through the gears and it feels really good! So, it is now complete and going to gather dust for a while.

Daggone, I guess once I get the rear buttoned up, I'll get the engine ready to pull. I need some GT40 heads... And possibly one of the alphabet cams. Top it off with a Weiand Stealth and I think that will make a good combo.

 

I have to say, after seeing a gear install done today, I feel much better about doing one on my own. I want to swap out my 3.55's for something better and think I could easily do it now.......although I may have to get some calipers and dial indicator from Ralph. Thanks for having me over......Let me know when it's time to yank the motor.

 

Cool deal. Glad you had fun. It was good to meet John as well. Feel free to borrow the setup - including the steel plate - whenever you want.

BTW, is this your grey jacket I have laying on my wife's bike?


Okay, I wish-washed. I looked at the rear brakes, thought more on the engine, then decided to button everything up. So, I got it all going today.
Hardest part I had was getting the pinion shaft in. I had to work and work, and even then I had to hammer on it. Pulled out just a little after 12 and when I turned out of the driveway, it sounded like I broke the rear. I was expecting this, but it still made my heart pump.

I'll think over the engine, decide, gather parts, then pull the engine.

I'm lovin' the 2.95 cluster/gear set and the 3.55s. Whoa... It is geared very sweet now! I took it for a good 25-mile drive and all sounds good. The clutch is softer again. Everything is working good.

Thanks Mark and Gary for coming over and giving me a hand. I really do appreciate it!

 

No problem, although I felt more like a spectator than a participant, so I don't know how much thanks I deserve.

Yeah, I left Mickey over there. I'll try and swing by sometime in the future and pick it up.