Anybody have any experience with this?

The kit (http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-...r-package.html ) consists of;

• 2.9 Whipple w/ crusher inlet @ 18 PSI
• FRPP Monoblade throttlebody
• 72 lbs. Injectors
• 123mm JLT CAI
• New Tune (in my case as I have a tuner)
• NGK TR6 plugs

I contacted them and asked what else they used to make 700 RWHP on their test car and they said it included Kooks headers and an OR X-pipe.

I didn't ask what what size exhaust or what they were running as far as a heat exchanger goes but I figure it was probably a full 3" exhaust along with a good heat exchanger set-up like AFCO's dual fan unit.

I had some concern about he monoblade t-body but the rep said it was still pretty streetable just more sensitive to throttle input (I'm guessing because each degree of throttle blade opening allows much more air to pass).

I'm committed but I haven't decided if I'm going to do the blower install myself or pay to have it done - its a little more complex than messing with the stock Heaton but not much more so with the exception of having to rack the K-member just I case the inlet on the Whipple doesn't have enough clearance against the firewall.

I will pay to have the headers installed though, not interested at all in laying on my back trying to wiggle long tubes in on jack stands.

The package also includes a remote tuning session with Lund Racing, so there's that which I'm guess is complementary with the supplied tune.

 

price seems very reasonable

 

I thought so as well, they also give a 280 dollar discount on the kit if you already have a tuner.

 

I did the 700 rwhp kit 4 years ago. Was told about the TB so I opted with the twin 66. They also said in California on 91 gas it was not gonna be 700. On the tune they sent from Lund it was 630 rwhp 585 rwtq. Went to straight pipes and a custom tune it went to 643 rwhp.

 

Better make sure you got all forged internals with that much power. That thing will pull like a beast!
And yes, I bet that is a full 3" exhaust through from the collector to the outlets.

 

Stock exhaust manifolds Osiris or LT's?

I can run the 93 tune and I'll give the monoblade a try ( Lethal said its worth 15-20hp ) plus the 3.00" pulley.

Only way they come Stage (GT500 that is), I'm mulling a new long block down the road though, a big bore 5.4 with ported heads and a very stout rotating assembly would be nice. IIRC, Hot Rod ran an article on the 07-09 GT500's and said the rotating assembly was good for 670 rwhp (hopefully a conservative estimate).

 

stock manifolds. I was too lazy to try to tackle those. I for sure wasn't gonna pay 15 to 20 hours at a shop for them to do it either. I looked around and from what I found the monoblade is more track and the duel is more streetable. If you don't like the mono I'll switch with ya, haha. I am going track only now with my pile. I have seen 700 rwhp on stock lower end. You should be there I would think with LT's and the smaller pulley and better gas.

 

I agree 18 psi on a stock block and you are bound to go boom sooner rather then later. I would only from comfrtable with 10psi on a stock block and that's really pushing it..

 

I'll probably have everything ready to go by November. Gonna go get a quote for the LT install on Wednesday (ARH 1-7/8 w/ 3" OR pipe as I hear the closer you get to 700 RWHP the harder it is on the cats) Along with the headers I'll be upgrading the puny factory heat exchanger to a bigger dual pass/ dual fan unit and maybe a new ic pump down the road. It will so be interesting to see what boost the car makes with completely uncorked exhaust.

I've been running 12 psi for about 2 years now under a variety of conditions with the stock exhaust system and heat exchanger.

As far as I've read, the stock block will take 600+ with 93 on a good tune, and as long as you keep the engine below 6800 rpm (which makes sense as the valvetrain from Ford is only rated for about 6600-6700 rpm on the 07-12 cars). The kit includes a remote tuning session with Lund Racing so before I run the hell out of it I'll take the car down to the same guys that are going to do the headers and see if they can run the data logging on the their dyno for the remote tune.

 

I had the lethal high flow cats and at 16psi I melted the passenger and started on the driver. I do road courses though. If you drag you are probably ok or street too. I also keep it under 6K on the tach.
Cooling is also a great idea on these cars. I have a mezeire 20gpm IC pump and afco LFP he and c&r radiator and 170 reisch Tstat. Lots of this depends on what you want to do with the car. Bigger overflow tank and HE is probably just fine for street. Probably a good place to start too then see how it performs. If you still heat soak then maybe the pump or engine radiator.
At the power you are looking for traction is a big factor too. Again look at what the car is for, street, drag, road course.

Joey we are talking about a GT500 just to clarify. I've been thrashing my 16 psi whipple for a few years on the track.

 

From what I read, Lund is a great tuner. Can't go wrong there as well.

 

Drag mainly, one of these days I'll get around to a road course, with the Heaton peak power came in right around 6k and my rev limiter is set to 6500 rpm, will see how peak power occurs with the new blower and tune but I don't think I'll change the rev limit on account of the valvetrain and to a lesser extent the rotating assembly.

Ran a 305/40R18 drag radial for a bit and I'm back to the 285/40R18's on less than sticky (IMO) NT555's

I don't think I'll get any more serious than the NT05R drag radial I ran before until I get the LCA relocators welded up and a new driveshaft and even then I don't think I'll launch to aggressively with that.

 

Oops my fault use to being in the 5.0 section. No wonder why the boost is up there. Makes sense.

 

Got a pretty good deal for my headers (I think) - ARH 1-7/8 with 3" OR pipe for 1400.00 + 695.00 installation + 360.00 for dyno time.

Blower kit is on the way so I'll get that installed and take the car down for the header install and get everything fine tuned when the headers go on.

Its Dyno Tuned Performance over in Va Beach doing the headers and fine tuning (obviously).

 

Good luck man, gonna be a whole different car when you get it back. Enjoy!

 

Thanks, hopefully in a few weeks I can report back with success with a nice cool low humidity hero run on the Dyno.

 

Awesome Bob. That thing will be beastly for sure!
(I apologize. I didn't realize I was in the Shelby thread when I posted that reply about forged internals. )

 

Well almost there, got the 2.9 Whipple in with a minor change. Lethal said they were getting a metric crap ton of complaints with the mono-blade so the kit has been updated with the 65mm dual-blade t-body. Lund Racing said the same thing, go with the 65mm dual blade which flows around 1500 cfm and that would make it good for about 900hp (1518 cfm / 1.67 cfm per hp) which "should" be enough to get the car to 700 rwhp guestimating the parasitic loss due to the blower and drivetrain provided it actually takes around 100hp to make 18 pounds of boost and the drivetrain holds steady at 15% (as that seems to be a reliable figure for the TR6060, stock final gear and stock driveshaft) and while Lethal says with 72 lbs/hr injectors fuel mods aren't required Lund Racing recommended a BAP as well including a better H/E and 170 t-stat before I bolt on the blower.

Also if anybody knows somebody looking for a take off blower, I'll be boxing up the ported M122 HEaton, 2.59 Overdrive Pulley, Stock Throttle Body, Stock Injectors, Stock Heat Exchanger, FRPP 113mm MAF Housing, and FRPP CAI housing once I'm done and asking 500.00 bucks for the whole deal (well plus shipping). I've posted elsewhere with the dyno run but in cool air this was good for almost 550 rwhp (3" dynomax cat back race bullet exhaust) on my car with a VMP canned tune.

 

I have the twin TB on mine and there are no problems. I was told the same thing. I have no BAP and just have the 72lb injectors and IIRC the tune from Lund was about 93% on the fuel pump. I got a custom tune and got it down to 90%. I am on 91 CA gas though.

 

would you happen to know what I would need to get that to work on a '95? Cause that's a **** good price