I now have a price for my dream 2011 GT Prem:
- brembo brakes
- 3.73 gears
- candy red
- opt access pack 5
- $850 delievery
Xplan price = $35185, MSRP $37500 (about)

But my problem is no one knows what the trade-in value is of my 2010 GT. No dealer nor KBB or Edmunds can give me a trade-in price of my well equiped 2010. I am thinking maybe I can order the car and cancel it when it comes it if my trade-in is really bad as I need to get a good return in trade for me to afford the payments on the new 2011.

It is funny because I have contacted 3 or 4 dealer asking for a quote on a 2011 and only one dealer has gotten back to me. I guess they are not interested in taking orders for them right now.

Ideas??

Joe

 

im in the same boat with my 2010 interested to see what it would be worth

 

i dont know the answer to your question either but i hope there are tons like you that do trade in their 2010. i need a gt vert with saddle interior. lol

 

Joe, I'm gonna give you a call in about an hour with a number for you.

 

OK, waiting with baited breath...yuk....

Joe

 

I'm leaving work in about 10 minutes and will call you from the car (using SYNC).

 

Joe, I'll tell you the methodology of putting a trade-in value on a current model year Mustang GT (or most any current model year vehicle, for that matter)....

• Consider that a used 2010 GT should be priced a couple grand less than an identically equipped brand new, otherwise who would consider buying it. Let's say $2K, for example.
• Also consider that a dealer that takes a 2010 GT in trade will want to make money reselling it. Maybe $2K, for example?
• Consider the rebates available on a new 2010 GT. While it's $3K in the NW, seems like it is about $2K most everywhere else.
• Consider that dealers are discounting new 2010's deeply to unload them. Maybe $1K below invoice, for example.

So, using the assumptions above, let's say that a new 2010 GT like yours has an MSRP of $32K and an invoice of $30K. After dealer discount and rebate it might sell for $27K. Then assume the dealer wants to make $2K off your trade in and needs to resell your 2010 for $2K less than the new 2010 I just marked down. That's $4K off the $27K for a new one, putting your trade-in value around $23K, IMO. You can adjust the numbers up or down, depending on the actual MSRP/invoice for your car (since I have no idea how your car is equipped).

Also consider that many dealers are smart enough to know that the 2011 is more desirable than a 2010 and they may bid less for your 2010 than I suggested above. That's just simple supply/demand economics that may affect the trade-in value.

With a little luck, you put a big down payment toward the 2010 and/or didn't have a trade-in with a ton of negative equity toward the 2010. If you owe $30K or more on the 2010, you may have to come up with a big down payment to get a loan approval on the 2011.

Hope this helps. And, as always: "your results may vary."

 

No reputable site has one out yet. The most used industry wide is Kelly blue book. But What you could do to get a general idea, is use yahoo autos. they give you the options to build it the way you have it and then will show a graph on past results to gear you towards what it's worth.

My MSRP came was 36540 according to their graph it'll lose 7,100 over the first year.
Seems about right I would imagine...

Site: http://autos.yahoo.com/2010_ford_mus...m_coupe-price/

 

KBB is a joke. NADA is closer to reality. KBB is 25% over reality.

 

I would be surprised for a dealer to offer more than 20-23k...

Better off just taking 10k cash and lighting it on fire...

 

Thanks for the input. I just talked to a dealer off-line here and figuring my car's MSRP was $35500 with 5,500 miles, right now they would give me about $26000 in trade. That is currently less than what the loan is. So it looks like no new 2011 for me.

Joe

 

Mod the 10'. Too much BS and hype that the 11 makes the 10 a pile of dick. It doesn't,

 

I did something similar a few years ago and lost my a$$ on the deal. Unfortunately you'll never get what you think you should get... Good luck.

 

That's the problem with trading up early...you lose money. I did the same thing almost two years ago now when I traded an '07 V6 for an '08 GT. I got the '08 for about $8,000 under sticker, but I had to roll about $8,000 into the new loan (so it was like I walked in and bought the GT at the sticker price). V6's are a dime a dozen when it comes to trade-in value.

That being said, I don't really regret the deal, because I suspected that if I waited, it never would have happened. These days, my wife and I are trying to save up for a downpayment on a house while paying off other debts, and there is no way I could justify (at this point) buying a new car if I was still driving the V6. The possibility of being free from car payments would totally outweigh the appeal of driving my dream V8 muscle car.

Even with the new engines, I don't think there's really enough reason to upgrade from the 2010 to 2011. It's still the same body style, the same interior, and the same suspension. And keep in mind, Ford WILL come out with something new for the 2012, 2013, and maybe even 2014 model years. And, if you're feeling heartbreak now over the new engines, I can guarantee whatever they come out with will probably do the same thing even if you bought a 2011. Just imagine: IRS, a Mach 1, a Boss, etc.

What I would do is pay down the 2010 as much as you can over the next 1-2 years, and then pick up a 2011 when the rebates come out, or buy a new 2012. The other thing you can do is buy a supercharger and a Brembo brake set. Even if that cost you $6,000-$7,000, that's a fraction of what you'd be rolling over into a new loan with the 2011.

 

I am sorry but I have to disagree with you about the differences between a 10 and 11. I see there are big differences as:

- 100 more horse and more torque
- brembo brakes (sure, some may say you don't need better brakes. I say say that to me when I am driving at night at 60 mph and a deer jumps out in front of me)
- the track pack is now included
- electronicly assisted steering
- miscel other tweaks like sealing the rear deck lid and under the engine

plus the fact that down the road a 2011 5.0 Mustang will be worth more than a 2010 4.6 and lastly, my 2010 will never be worth more than what it is now in trade.

Sure, if I was daring I could find someone to SC it but I would always wonder if it was done right and worry about the warrantee. I prefer to leave a car stock except for small things like exhaust. Really modding a car by SC is prone to problems down the road I believe. So adding brembo brakes, SC, redoing the suspension, etc just doesn't make sense to me when you add up all the cost, time and trouble.

Oh, one other thing. My 2010 is black with white stripes. It is a very nice looking car and I get comlements everywhere I go. But my dream color is really Torch red and if I ordered a 2011 I could finally have my red car.

Joe

 

This isn't true. You have to get the optional Brembo brakes AND 3.73 rear end. ~$2100?

 

You bought a 2010 and that's what you should be thinking about, not a 2011. Having buyer's remorse is common. But the only way to get over it is to enjoy what you have.

 

Yeh, but there will be always be better and faster models that come out. When you're talking about value, I think that the only time that the difference in a 4.6L and a 5.0L would be in 40 years when these cars are then classics.... it will only be enthusiasts that care about the 5.0L. Just look up 1991 5.0L Mustangs... found one on autotrader listed for $8k..... Buying a new car is only for the enjoyment of the car AND a warranty. The value drops faster than a fat kid will steal a cup cake. I've got a 2010 and while the 5.0L makes me feel jealousy, it's not enough for me to say that trading up now would be justifiable.... **** I've got my first v8 sports car! a 4.6L engine is still a big engine with plenty of power. (had a v6 previously) because in reality the 5.0L isn't going to anything special (worth wise) until possibly 40 years later... save up that money you would have lost and buy a 5.0L when its cheap

Hope thats helps you feel a little better.

 

Agree to disagree.
NADA doesn't even offer comparable pricing of included options... They're way too vague. And every dealer I've ever used chooses Kelly Blue Book, even for court and legal precedings- KBB is used.

Compare any 2 cars and I'll bet the numbers aren't 25% off... And that KBB is more in line.

 

KBB thinks a loaded 2007 Mustang GT coupe is worth $23,000. LOL

Little options don't add squat. Only major.

You're right though, dealers use it to PRICE their cars since it is redicuously high!