Interesting....well *knock on wood*.

 

Just do a search for "engine tick" on here and you will find hundreds of people with this issue. It's a big problem. Ford won't recognize it because they either 1. Don't know what is causing it, or 2. DO know what is causing it, but it has no affect on reliability and would cost too much to fix. I have yet to hear of anyone having a major mechanical failure after this tick. There are many people who have gone 60k+ miles with this tick. It's just something that is annoying and makes our cars sound cheap and broken. But that's in addition to all the drivetrain clunking on Mustangs with manual transmissions. I try shifting very smoothly and slowly in parking lots, and usually I can hear a clunk every time I change gears. If I can hear that echoing off a building in addition to the engine ticking noise, everyone else can. "omg, whats wrong with that piece of junk Mustang? What's all that sound? Those must be cheap cars."

 

Even with an occasional tick, I've been driving the **** out of mine. The car runs strong, so it doesn't worry me too much. But, I agree it sounds bad sometimes. I've decided to just drive it and enjoy everything it has to offer.

 

Couple things
-No reason to change oil every 3k miles, change oil when it gets low on the dipstick.
-Use full synthetic, not blends
-Give it the ol' italian tune up every now and again, get that oil pressurized and circulating all around

 

My 2014 GT had this off and on. It only occured when I didn't use the recommended motorcraft though. I now have a 2016 Subaru Forester and guess what? It has the same exact ticking noise at idle. Definitely not the exhaust heating/cooling.

 

I've been sticking with the OEM blend but perhaps it's time to step up to full synthetic....but I disagree about waiting for it to get low on the dipstick. I plan on keeping this motor for a long time so I have been sticking to the "severe duty" oil change cycle.

I DO agree about the value "Italian Tune Up." ...but come on. This is a Coyote Mustang! If you're not blasting through the 6k-7k RPM range every time you drive it, you should have bought a Fusion. I thoroughly enjoy this motor but the tune up procedures as you suggest, haven't helped this problem.

IIRC, your Subaru has direct injection, right? If so, those injectors will audibly click while running. Is that what you're hearing? The Mustang tick is not related to RPM and is not rhythmic.

 

Im not talking about changing oil when the level becomes very low on the dip stick. Check it on the dipstick, and if you notice after a certain amount of miles its still at the optimal level no need to change it. Its a waste of money to change oil every 2-3k miles, its not going to make some vast impact on your engine or its longevity. The type of oil you use and the type of fuel you use will be much more influential.

Ive been using full synthetic, changing every 7k miles or so and had no issues what so ever. Already at 30k miles and my engine sounds like silk at idle. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20, and I pour nothing but 91 octane shell v power, no ethanol in that fuel, so it burns nothing but pure gasoline. More efficiency and more power from pure gasoline, as opposed to the ethanol contaminated garbage lol

 

And you're a HUNDRED PERCENT sure on this???

 

I'm starting to think all the effort put in using Full Synthetic is doing more harm than good on our Engines. I plan to go back to what the dealership uses and see. Got the complimentary oil change email heh

 

Unless it varies state to state, that is definitely not correct. All the fuels at the station, even premium contain ethanol now. It says it right on the gas pump. Shell V power is no different (I put that in mine as well)

 

The 91 octane at all the Quick Trip locations I've stopped at in Minnesota is now ethanol free. Many Cenex locations offer ethanol free 91 as well. Of course it's not legal to use in street driven vehicles unless the vehicle meets certain criteria such as collector car, small engine, motorcycle, etc. I use it anyway. I'm fairly sure the gas cops aren't going to catch me!


John

 

Im not sure how it is for you guys in the states, but here in Canada, v power is the only fuel left with no ethanol in it.

 

Ugh well maybe its just here then.Unless I've been misreading the pumps, even V-power has ethanol here in the Houston area. There's a nice little sticker that says ALL fuels contain up to 10% ethanol or somthing like that....If its really just here thats frustrating.

 

Most of our fuel here is also 10% ethanol. There are limited stations that do pump ethanol free fuel. Most that do only offer 87 octane, but there are a few hit and miss that offer other octane levels. Until lately there has only been an unbranded station (Spirit?) that had all levels from 87 - 91. Runs fine, but you wonder what it might be doing. As of July we now have a couple of 66 stations that have added the upper octanes without ethanol. So glad that I now have a major trusted brand of ethanol free fuel I can use. I have been running only ethanol free 91 in mine most of time. It is a little hard to do when traveling. Those stations just are not typically along the major routes.

Not aware of any legal constraints on the use to non-ethanol fuel here.

 

My local Exxon station has one pump on the side of the building. It's ethanol free 87 octane, cost 10 cents a gallon more than the 93 octane I use in my Mustang . I use the 87 ethanol free gas in my boat, I'm happy I only use around 40 gallons a year

 

FTW.....
When I was with Ford, I remember looking this up. There is an SSM (special service message) about this for 2011-2014 Mustangs - so check with you local FMC Dealer.
So you're thinking now "Well....**** it, what did it say!?!?!" LOL. I don't recall specifics, but I do remember it talked about the pressurization of the VCT components being one culprit, and less popular was a mild #1 piston skirt slap.
(I'm sure most of you just gasped and said "oh no...that's not mine....mine is that other VCPT thingee or whatever....." LOL

 

Has anyone used 0w40 weight (Mobil1 Euro spec, Amsoil, or any other brand) and experienced improvement?


After trying a few weights n brands, I still believe finding the 'right' weight will help to make the noise disappear. Although these tries haven't been noise-free, one thing to note is that they made noise 'at different INTERVALS'. Sometimes at idle, sometimes at light load or both...etc, in which I came to conclude that the weights do make a difference. Also, maybe a placebo effect but I can feel/hear when the engine runs smoother or rougher depending on what oil grade was used. I think I have a sixth sense.

Went to the dealership lastweek for an oil change. Complimentary offer for Ford owner's advantage rewards. The 5w20 Mortorcraft Synthetic-Blend every Ford dealer uses. I was thinking, let's go back to the basics.

The thing is, I love my Pony. I love how the interior is so cheaply plastic, love how the car is so boxy (S197) styling, love how clunky the mt82 6speed shifts even with the mgw upgrade, love how the american v8 rumbles. Old school meets the modern. I don't care if other cars are faster, handles better. That was the sole reason why I bought mine brand new, even 'waited' for 13 model year release in 2012.

I want this noise gone.

 

It's not the oil it's the A/C belt causing the noise.

 

Is it the A/C belt causing the noise, or the A/C unit itself ?

 

Isn't the A/C belt an isolated TSB for 11-12 model years??

Check out this thread:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...noise.1057548/

Quotes:
"For what it's worth -- and one case is not worth much -- ticking in my '14 GT started twenty miles after the first oil change (Motorcraft 5w-50, as recommended). I immediately changed out the oil and filter to the "old standby" I use in my Lotus Elise and my NC Miata -- Mobil 1 Eurospec 0w-40. No tick on start, none since. I'm thinking the cams and other odds 'n' ends are very sensitive to additive formulations, including zinc/phosphorus."

"Like others on this thread -- BBQ (not A/C) tick on the second oil change, using the recommended Motorcraft 5w-50. After 200 miles I changed out the oil to Mobil 1 Eurospec 0w-40. Tick stopped immediately. Hasn't returned in 3 oil changes using the M1. I've used that particular oil in a Mazda MX-5 track car and a Jeep TJ built for offroad competition; never had issues with it in real life or Blackstone testing."

"This is exactly what I used and it went away! Mobil 0w-40 European ftw!!! You guys that are using 5w-50 that have the tick trick should give this a try."