since when? according to who?

 

Check out Bob's the Oil Guy forums. Formulas change over time. It happens regularly. Mobile 1 Full Synthetic is not a true full synthetic anymore. The Extended Performance is. It's buried in the forums over there somewhere. I remember a time when Penzoil would gunk up an engine like crazy and cause all sorts of problems. Formula changed and it doesn't happen anymore.

 

so is mobil 1 5w20 full syn the same formula as motorcrafts 5w 20 version?

 

It's not the same formula but it's also not a full true synthetic. Apparently very few oils rate Group IV or Group V, which would designate them as true synthetics.

Most "Full" synthetics are in the Group III category. Which means they use some base oil stock that is not synthetic to create their "full" synthetic blend.

Mobile 1 used to be a Group IV based true synthetic. The information I have seen is that they sold the ingredients for it's Group IV rated oil to Amsoil, and now use a different base stock that puts them in the Group III category. Their Extended Performance oil is also Group III but uses a great many Group IV components (hence, it being a better Full Synthetic).

What all this really means is that something like Amsoil is going to maintain better viscosity across different heat ranges. It's not going to matter a whole lot unless you track your car regularly.

Whatever you use, stick with it. The Mobile 1 Extended Performance has a lot of Group IV components to it, so it's really a better oil than the regular Full Synthetic.

Check this out:

http://www.f150online.com/forums/200...is-report.html

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1666049

http://fordstnation.com/focus-st-gen...c-5w-30-a.html

Unless you want to spend the cash and pay for Amsoil or Royal Purple, Motorcraft Oils are right up there at the top of the list even for non-ford owners.

A lot of these guys send their used oil off to Blackstone to have it looked at. Blackstone will give recommendations as to how much oil life is left in the oil. My understanding is that the Oil counter on the new cars is very conservative and there is usually 10-20% of life in the oil when the counter reads 0. This is based off of MANY Blackstone reports I have read.

The key here is that Ford basically dictated to Conoco/Phillips how they wanted the oil to perform, and what to do with it as far as ingredients go. It was designed from the ground up for Ford Engines, and it just so happens to work well in a LOT of different cars, including Hondas, Toyotas, etc. Ford spent a lot of R&D on their Motorcraft Oils. I see nothing wrong with using it and feeling safe in doing so. It is interesting to note though that Ford's Motorcraft 5-20 weight is better than the 5-30 weight for the same price (do they still sell 5-30?) .

If it is any consolation. I'll be going with Full Synthetic (Motorcraft) tomorrow, when I have my oil changed. I'm not a Ford Die Hard fan guy, but I don't track my car and don't need Amsoil or Royal Purple (or the price tags) to go along with it. Plus, I have a 6 year warranty and just prefer Ford to do it for me. It alleviates any hassles when it comes to warranty work in my experience.

I can tell you this much. I used full synthetic in my Focus after the first oil change and it was never black when I went to change it out. I changed it two to three times a year regardless of mileage (because time can cause breakdown in oils as well) and it was difficult to read oil levels on the dipstick because it always stayed a nice amber color which tells me I could have probably gone to a once a year oil change regimen and been fine, but I like to change it at least twice a year when the seasons change from hot to cold and cold to hot.

I can also tell you from reading the blackstone reports that you won't see the high levels of metal particles, sand, etc. Drop in your oil until you reach about 25-30k miles on the car. Which suggests a much longer "break in" period than most people would think. After that it seems to even out and stay level.

Whatever is causing the ticking/popping noise IMHO, is still there, no matter what oil you use. The noise might be masked by using Amsoil or Royal Purple, but the problem is still there because (again, IMHO) this is a quality issue that occurred when the engines were being built. And whatever the noise is, once its there, the damage is done. There's no magic fluid that will fix it.

Also, I might be a little superstitious because I'm getting to that age, but I have to wonder if Ford's Oil Counters are specifically set up to track usage based on their Motorcraft oils (probably not, but when you get older, you start to wonder about these things. lol).

In my humble experience, there are about a thousand things that will go wrong with a modern car nowadays before the engine or transmission gives up the ghost. Like I said before, In the 50's and 60's, you could expect about 80-90k out of an engine before it NEEDED a rebuild. These days you can expect 200K+ and still have it going strong while everything else is falling apart as long as you maintain it properly.

 

This.

 

I mentioned this wayback about oil vescocities and a so-called mech on here said I didn't know what I was talking about, SEEMS I DO, THINNER OIL MAKES MORE NOISE & DOESN'T LET LIFTERS GET FULL PRIME .

 

The Track Pack cars run 5w50 all the time... Mine does... Mine has the tick...

 

 

This....

im now experimenting different gas brands

 

It's not gas, my engine was running fine when I brought it in for oil change, 30 min later oil was changed and tic was there. Very loud.

Now I have had the engine changed and no tic yet, many brands of gas with new engine.

 

So I'm at the dealership doing my 3rd oil change, Motorcraft 5w-50 Full Synthetic. We'll see how this goes.

 

Very interested in the results.. I hope it is in your favor and everything is normal.

 

Thanks. I drove roughly 15-20min back home, felt like the car was running smoother than before.

With some traffic on the way, I ran some tests of my own - giving light & heavy acceleration - as the noise seem most apparent at low RPM.

Unfortunately though, I started hearing the infamous ticking once again as I come to a stop parking at the garage. The good(?) news is that the noise interval appears to be somewhat less rapid compared to previous one.

I would like to put it this way. The ticking noise is a sign, a form of proof that you got the fresh oil put in the Coyote Engine. Sad, but unless Ford comes up with reasonable solution to all this unexplained phenomena, not sure how else to put it.

So there you have it, my very own 5w50 oil change.

 

I'm still not sure if the ticking is a problem, when I had my engine replaced (10000 miles), it was for a knocking sound at low RPM. The ticking I had since the second oil change and then it came back on the 3rd oil change. I'm still wondering if the ticking is a prelude to a worse problem, or is it the root of the problem, or does it have nothing to do with the problem I had?? I'm really shocked no dealer or Ford themselves has not come up with the answer of what is actually ticking so loudly after an oil change.

 

This guy has a 2012 f150 5.0 it's happening to him too.. Was there a bad batch of these engines for that year or what?

F150 5.0 Engine Knocking Noise Video 4:

 

Except mine is a 2014.

 

I tend to think it has to do with the rings not being seated properly from the factory. I think some of the ticking noises people are having are related to this, and other ticking noises (which sound different to me) are much worse.

But the random type-writer ticking noise I think has to do with the rings. This would explain why the problem seems to fix itself after 10-15k miles on the vehicle for some people.

As Blackstone has noted in its reports, the break-in period for these engines seem to be considerably higher based on metal/sand content found in the oils all the way up to 25-30k miles before leveling out and becoming stable.

The only way to know for sure is for us to start submitting oil for analysis to blackstone to see what they have to say.

 

How did you come to that type of a conclusion when a perfectly fine running engine goes in to get the oil changed and 10 min later it comes out ticking? Please keep in mind I'm not trying to be confrontational but just trying to understand your logic..

Also my engine was not ticking when it was replaced, it had a low RPM knocking sound. Having had both problems at different times I know for sure they sound completely different. Nothing was found abnormal with the piston rings.

 

The confusing part of the rings would be that most things I've read say rings seat fairly quickly - within the first few hundred miles at most.
Yet many do report excessive oil consumption sometimes past 1-2000 miles on the 5.0 (never a problem on the 4.6).
As for sand (silicon) content in the oil sample, that would not be from rings or from cylinder sleeves, but from the hypereutectic pistons. So maybe there's some piston skirt scuffing? That once they wear in, there is then some piston slap causing the ticking?
Ford would sure set minds at ease if they would make a mechanical statement.

 

I know a guy with a F-250 and he is on his 2nd pair of lifters,they were the end lifters that woreout sounds like either the lifter assembly isn't running true or oil isn't getting to end lifters.